It is unusual for a throwout bearing to break like this? (updated pics with new TOB!)
09-19-2012, 08:51 PM
#41
Rob, The earlier offered square bearing was not the same as the newly offered HD bearing. This is something we are offering as a result of your situation and I am sure that it will help with any further issues. The Round bearing was all that has been offered for some time and there was no square bearing offered for any of our kits when you ordered.
09-24-2012, 03:26 PM
#43
WRD...It seems that you feel justified in making negative statements but you have a problem with anyone responding. You have an opinion and you are welcome to express it...but I am also justified in responding to it. Additionally, I'm no math major...but last time I checked 120-days was 4 months (if you are going to fault me...at least do so with the correct information). I am on this board all the time offering tech support and assistance to folks (even those without our parts) because I am interested in helping the community at large. But your right...damn me and my helpful ways. The offer for a beer still stands...because you sure seem to need one!
09-24-2012, 08:13 PM
#47
I can assure you that you could not be more wrong...
Also please forgive my math oversight, I blame it on /\
If you like, I will first drink 8 pints and then elegantly respond to my personal, very detailed experiences with the three SPEC clutches I have used which I have elected to avoid for years now in favor of fairness, possible bad luck or the very, very, very unlikely bad install.
I have only been critical of your TOB in this thread and nothing else, not sure whats negative about that. You stated you sourced the OPs busted bearing from the USA but have not gone a step further to actually say if its American made to precise OEM spec. BTW, I source all my parts in the USA as well but I know where they are usually made.
Personally, I find it difficult to really give a **** with respect to quality now days because like so many other LT1 related parts and given the climate of manufacturing today, I almost expect an inferior product but at least I have the ability to improve it. To be more specific, my lifetime waranty Autozone TOB which I tack welded to ensure longevity.
I am glad you are on here as much as you are helping others and backing your product, it does speak volumes and I am confident your happy customers far outweigh the unhappy ones. That said, I have not bashed SPEC or you in any threads that I recall nor in this one other than to comment on the pithetic 120 day warranty of the busted TOB given the nature of the failure. My biggest fault with you is that IMO, I believe you are hasty of jumping to installer error in other threads I have seen.
BTW,
at the trick dual flywheel clutch kit above. Betting even the LS1 guys dont have that yet.
Also please forgive my math oversight, I blame it on /\
If you like, I will first drink 8 pints and then elegantly respond to my personal, very detailed experiences with the three SPEC clutches I have used which I have elected to avoid for years now in favor of fairness, possible bad luck or the very, very, very unlikely bad install.
I have only been critical of your TOB in this thread and nothing else, not sure whats negative about that. You stated you sourced the OPs busted bearing from the USA but have not gone a step further to actually say if its American made to precise OEM spec. BTW, I source all my parts in the USA as well but I know where they are usually made.
Personally, I find it difficult to really give a **** with respect to quality now days because like so many other LT1 related parts and given the climate of manufacturing today, I almost expect an inferior product but at least I have the ability to improve it. To be more specific, my lifetime waranty Autozone TOB which I tack welded to ensure longevity.
I am glad you are on here as much as you are helping others and backing your product, it does speak volumes and I am confident your happy customers far outweigh the unhappy ones. That said, I have not bashed SPEC or you in any threads that I recall nor in this one other than to comment on the pithetic 120 day warranty of the busted TOB given the nature of the failure. My biggest fault with you is that IMO, I believe you are hasty of jumping to installer error in other threads I have seen.
BTW,
at the trick dual flywheel clutch kit above. Betting even the LS1 guys dont have that yet. Last edited by wrd1972; 09-25-2012 at 02:57 AM.
09-24-2012, 08:30 PM
#48
We'll see what happens after I break it in after a hundred miles or so then I'll romp on it. I have a test n tune coming in October so that'll be the test. We'll see if the clutch flunks out or the stock rear end does. Hopefully neither since I'm not using any sticky tires.
09-26-2012, 02:49 PM
#49
speed, Kevlar is typically quite smooth and durable though this can be affected by a number of factors. These include flywheel flatness, proper/complete break-in, cleanliness, etc. We have countless customers that swear by it.
SS RRR, we mark the discs to insure proper orientation. It helps eliminate the potential for orientation related issues.
wrd, I noted this was an American sourced bearing. You seem to be the only one questioning its origin...it's American Made. As for my posts in other threads I will typically list a great deal of information that addressed the potential for a number of causes for any issue. This is done because as eloquent as some descriptions may be and as plentiful as some pictures are they don't inherently relay the actual cause of any specific issue. I hate that you had problems with our clutches. I don't like for any customers to have issues. As a side note, you make reference to a dual flywheel picture...I don't see that, but perhaps you are referencing the picture of the two discs...one Kevlar and one Organic? The flywheel bolts to the crank; the disc fits between the flywheel surface and pressure-plate (which is blue). Nice Kegerator...maybe we should all just come by and drink beer at your house instead!
SS RRR, we mark the discs to insure proper orientation. It helps eliminate the potential for orientation related issues.
wrd, I noted this was an American sourced bearing. You seem to be the only one questioning its origin...it's American Made. As for my posts in other threads I will typically list a great deal of information that addressed the potential for a number of causes for any issue. This is done because as eloquent as some descriptions may be and as plentiful as some pictures are they don't inherently relay the actual cause of any specific issue. I hate that you had problems with our clutches. I don't like for any customers to have issues. As a side note, you make reference to a dual flywheel picture...I don't see that, but perhaps you are referencing the picture of the two discs...one Kevlar and one Organic? The flywheel bolts to the crank; the disc fits between the flywheel surface and pressure-plate (which is blue). Nice Kegerator...maybe we should all just come by and drink beer at your house instead!
09-26-2012, 03:18 PM
#50
Edit: 500 miles. Damn....
Last edited by Rob94hawk; 09-26-2012 at 04:08 PM.
09-26-2012, 03:23 PM
#51
While WRD is the only one questioning your TOB openly in the forum, he is by far not alone in wondering if it is made in the USA because initially you stopped short of saying that. I have found it IMPOSSIBLE to find a US made TOB or PP for the LT1, even from ACDelco, so we are skeptical.
In the above pictures both sides of the clutch disc are labeled FW Side.
In the above pictures both sides of the clutch disc are labeled FW Side.
09-26-2012, 03:52 PM
#52
Village Troll 
iTrader: (2)
There is also another question I asked in a previous post, if you don't mind answering?
09-26-2012, 08:40 PM
#55
wrd, I noted this was an American sourced bearing. You seem to be the only one questioning its origin...it's American Made.
As a side note, you make reference to a dual flywheel picture...I don't see that, but perhaps you are referencing the picture of the two discs...one Kevlar and one Organic?
As for the dual flywheel clutch kit. That was intended to be a joke considering both sides of the Spec Kevlar disk shown in the pic state FW-SIDE.
09-27-2012, 12:31 AM
#56
yeah 500 mi of normal driving. My $02 on Kevlar, having run the SPEC clutch with Kevlar disc, is do not baby or slip it. Kevlar will glaze if slipped alot in stop and go traffic. The segmented kevlar disc can chatter some but you should be able to adjust your engagement technique to have smooth engagement.
09-27-2012, 08:10 AM
#57
Rob94
yeah 500 mi of normal driving. My $02 on Kevlar, having run the SPEC clutch with Kevlar disc, is do not baby or slip it. Kevlar will glaze if slipped alot in stop and go traffic. The segmented kevlar disc can chatter some but you should be able to adjust your engagement technique to have smooth engagement.
yeah 500 mi of normal driving. My $02 on Kevlar, having run the SPEC clutch with Kevlar disc, is do not baby or slip it. Kevlar will glaze if slipped alot in stop and go traffic. The segmented kevlar disc can chatter some but you should be able to adjust your engagement technique to have smooth engagement.
I did not like the Kevlar clutch for stop and go driving because it does not react well to slipping as stated above. After about a year or so, the clutch slipped badly and had to be pulled. The disk did not look all together bad but the flywheel and PP surface looked like they were clear coated and shiny to the point you could se your reflection in them which obviously impacted the ability to grip. IIRC, I had one trip to the strip on that clutch but it just did not work for me on the street.
Plan on quick releases of the clutch and just do what you can to avoid overheating it and dont clutch hold it on the hills. IMO, this would be a better clutch for clutch dumping in a race car.
09-27-2012, 09:08 AM
#58
I did not like the Kevlar clutch for stop and go driving because it does not react well to slipping as stated above. After about a year or so, the clutch slipped badly and had to be pulled. The disk did not look all together bad but the flywheel and PP surface looked like they were clear coated and shiny to the point you could se your reflection in them which obviously impacted the ability to grip. IIRC, I had one trip to the strip on that clutch but it just did not work for me on the street.
Plan on quick releases of the clutch and just do what you can to avoid overheating it and dont clutch hold it on the hills. IMO, this would be a better clutch for clutch dumping in a race car.
09-27-2012, 11:41 AM
#59
I did not like the Kevlar clutch for stop and go driving because it does not react well to slipping as stated above. After about a year or so, the clutch slipped badly and had to be pulled. The disk did not look all together bad but the flywheel and PP surface looked like they were clear coated and shiny to the point you could se your reflection in them which obviously impacted the ability to grip. IIRC, I had one trip to the strip on that clutch but it just did not work for me on the street.
Plan on quick releases of the clutch and just do what you can to avoid overheating it and dont clutch hold it on the hills. IMO, this would be a better clutch for clutch dumping in a race car.
if you just drive a kevlar for daily use I would hit it hard a few times to try and minimize glaze build up
kevlar disc IMHO and also shared by others who have used them are not ideal for street use.
1st 2 pics is a SPEC 2+ (ceramic puc) after 2k mi and a few dozen trips to the track. 3 rd pic is the kevlar disc (not SPEC) which also did not live long (2k mi) Not bashing either one as hard use = hard wear but I found Kevlar not the best friction material for street use and short lived for track
In the end for cars making 400+ hp and used hard either an aggressive single disc clutch which will sacrafice streeet maners (chatter) or spend the $ and get a dual aka "twin" disc clutch with organic discs. If you make bigger power than get a twin with ceramic disc material....but that to will give up some street maners as that friction material is more aggressive.
09-23-2013, 03:50 PM
#60
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I just researched the TOB thing. Spec is full of it. ALL of them are coming from the same plant in China. Their pressure plates are Chinese LT1 Valeo knockoffs stamped with C70043 as are all other current pressure plates from any manufacturer. when Valeo moved their production to south America, they had big problems there. They decided they were going to move out of there and went down to gather everything up. Many items were missing and the LT4 casting was one of them. Would cost $50k+ to develop new ones and they didn't want to spend the money.
The square head design TOB is being passed of as "heavy duty upgrade" when in fact that design is for a Corvette clutch fork which is different than a Camaro/Firebird clutch fork.
The square head design TOB is being passed of as "heavy duty upgrade" when in fact that design is for a Corvette clutch fork which is different than a Camaro/Firebird clutch fork.