Stock crank and 2 bolt mains.
09-21-2012, 03:49 PM
#1
Stock crank and 2 bolt mains. If using a stock crank in a budget 355 build with forged rods and pistons and arp hardware everywhere.
Would the stock crank still be fine with a cam making power at 65-6600 with arp main bolts?
I really dont want to have a 4 bolt splayed main conversion done since it is a budget build and ive read of a bbody guy spinning to 7000 with stock crank so i was jw...
but all in all would i be safe on stock crank with 2 bolt mains and with a cam around 6600 and a 150 shot?
Would the stock crank still be fine with a cam making power at 65-6600 with arp main bolts?
I really dont want to have a 4 bolt splayed main conversion done since it is a budget build and ive read of a bbody guy spinning to 7000 with stock crank so i was jw...
but all in all would i be safe on stock crank with 2 bolt mains and with a cam around 6600 and a 150 shot?
09-21-2012, 04:09 PM
#3
2 bolt mains can take more than you think & are good to 7000rpm With High RPM & horsepower a 4bolt is better. With forged rods & pistons youll be fine with a 150 shot Just get good forged pistons & not the TRWs that someones Uncle used to run in a old 350 that was the fastest thing in PoDunk USA back in the Early 70s LoL GET some JE, Diamond, Wiseco or atleast SRP pistons & youll be fine 
09-21-2012, 05:21 PM
#7
in 12 years on various LT1 platform forums I have yet to see an example of a stock crank fail as the cause of an engine failure. There are guys who have sprayed two stages on top of heads/cam, guys who have done boost plus spray.
Hell most guys who do say a cam and nitrous do a 150 shot, probably a few heads/cam stock shortblock cars out there doing it. There is actually a guy here with a carbed LT1 in a third gen that has heads/cam and sprays to I believe mid 9s.
Hell most guys who do say a cam and nitrous do a 150 shot, probably a few heads/cam stock shortblock cars out there doing it. There is actually a guy here with a carbed LT1 in a third gen that has heads/cam and sprays to I believe mid 9s.
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09-21-2012, 06:41 PM
#9
My 350 is still alive and kicking. No upgrade on the rod bolts either. It lived for 2 years with a 5200rpm converter shifting at 6900 hundreds of times. No spray for me though, never ran it. The engine always had good oil pressure though, on the high side for an LT1. Some day I will buy a good roller, and plop it back inside without touching a thing. I don't even know the mileage that it has but I put about 15,000 on it and made hundreds of passes at the track.
09-22-2012, 12:24 AM
#10
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So...one stock motor can be different from Another. One day my stock block internals shifting at 6300 may one day throw a berring. So caprice...what would be your recipie for lets say 6500 rpm shifting motor, that u know for a fact will survive 7k all day long? Crank rods and bolts berrings pump? Minimul expense and then next step up. WHAT WOULD U USE OR USE? I value ur opinion in this area! Thank u
09-22-2012, 11:02 AM
#13
So...one stock motor can be different from Another. One day my stock block internals shifting at 6300 may one day throw a berring. So caprice...what would be your recipie for lets say 6500 rpm shifting motor, that u know for a fact will survive 7k all day long? Crank rods and bolts berrings pump? Minimul expense and then next step up. WHAT WOULD U USE OR USE? I value ur opinion in this area! Thank u
Competent people often have no opti issues atall, hell on another forum a guy said he simply pop rivets the electrode to the rotor and turns on 8500rpm. The fact that ever dumb kid with a 12 second f-body has opti issues is more a comment on their own incompetence than the opti.
I don't think anyone has a clear answer, I know of one guy with 500rwhp through an automatic NA on studded 2-bolt and been doing it a LONG time. Other guys say they see some cap movement before that. My guess would be it depends on a number of factors, rotating assembly weight and balance, how tight the cap is in the register, how much actual use it gets etc.
Honestly though if you expect a build to be in the 500rwhp range what is the extra few hundred dollars for 4-bolt caps and machining and it usually better to spend a little extra up front than correct potential issues later..
I suspect the quality of the machining plays in as well, IMO there are a LOT of engine shops out there and only a tiny minority do truly good work. Even most shops with good reputations only have a good reputation because people don't know any better.
09-22-2012, 10:41 PM
#14
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Like Pat said you recondition the stock rods with ARP hardware and you have extra insurance vs stock. The stock crank is in no way a concern. Stock pistons are fine so long as you don't detonate. If upgrading pistons though I would go ahead and buy aftermarket rods since you will be rebalancing anyway.
Competent people often have no opti issues atall, hell on another forum a guy said he simply pop rivets the electrode to the rotor and turns on 8500rpm. The fact that ever dumb kid with a 12 second f-body has opti issues is more a comment on their own incompetence than the opti.
I don't think anyone has a clear answer, I know of one guy with 500rwhp through an automatic NA on studded 2-bolt and been doing it a LONG time. Other guys say they see some cap movement before that. My guess would be it depends on a number of factors, rotating assembly weight and balance, how tight the cap is in the register, how much actual use it gets etc.
Honestly though if you expect a build to be in the 500rwhp range what is the extra few hundred dollars for 4-bolt caps and machining and it usually better to spend a little extra up front than correct potential issues later..
I suspect the quality of the machining plays in as well, IMO there are a LOT of engine shops out there and only a tiny minority do truly good work. Even most shops with good reputations only have a good reputation because people don't know any better.
Competent people often have no opti issues atall, hell on another forum a guy said he simply pop rivets the electrode to the rotor and turns on 8500rpm. The fact that ever dumb kid with a 12 second f-body has opti issues is more a comment on their own incompetence than the opti.
I don't think anyone has a clear answer, I know of one guy with 500rwhp through an automatic NA on studded 2-bolt and been doing it a LONG time. Other guys say they see some cap movement before that. My guess would be it depends on a number of factors, rotating assembly weight and balance, how tight the cap is in the register, how much actual use it gets etc.
Honestly though if you expect a build to be in the 500rwhp range what is the extra few hundred dollars for 4-bolt caps and machining and it usually better to spend a little extra up front than correct potential issues later..
I suspect the quality of the machining plays in as well, IMO there are a LOT of engine shops out there and only a tiny minority do truly good work. Even most shops with good reputations only have a good reputation because people don't know any better.
09-23-2012, 08:58 AM
#15
I don't think anyone has a clear answer, I know of one guy with 500rwhp through an automatic NA on studded 2-bolt and been doing it a LONG time. Other guys say they see some cap movement before that. My guess would be it depends on a number of factors, rotating assembly weight and balance, how tight the cap is in the register, how much actual use it gets etc.
Honestly though if you expect a build to be in the 500rwhp range what is the extra few hundred dollars for 4-bolt caps and machining and it usually better to spend a little extra up front than correct potential issues later..
I suspect the quality of the machining plays in as well, IMO there are a LOT of engine shops out there and only a tiny minority do truly good work. Even most shops with good reputations only have a good reputation because people don't know any better.
Honestly though if you expect a build to be in the 500rwhp range what is the extra few hundred dollars for 4-bolt caps and machining and it usually better to spend a little extra up front than correct potential issues later..
I suspect the quality of the machining plays in as well, IMO there are a LOT of engine shops out there and only a tiny minority do truly good work. Even most shops with good reputations only have a good reputation because people don't know any better.
See thats mainly what im worried about it should be about 400 rwhp on motor and adding a 150 shot i would asssume would put it to or around 500 rwhp.
The car would just be a weekend/weeknight car with trips to the strip 4 times a month mainly.
Is it stronger to get arp studs when spinning that high in a 2 bolt main or would i be fine with arp bolts?
09-24-2012, 09:46 AM
#16
i ran my 355 at 6800-7000rpm with stock crank and rods for 4 years had 0 issues.....its now put back together in my buddies impala ready to start another life.......
as for the 4 bolt...unless your making in excess of 500hp and 7000rpm id be ok with the 2 bolt.......
as for the 4 bolt...unless your making in excess of 500hp and 7000rpm id be ok with the 2 bolt.......
