355 build
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Teching In
Joined: Jul 2012
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From: Oswego,Ny
355 build I'm looking for advice on building by worn out LT1 into a 355....I will be getting a set of LE1 heads and cam with a ported intake........I have a decent builder thats been great to me,but I want to use tried and true parts....any advice would be great.....1995 z28 with a A4,373 gears,moroso CAI,3 in alum d/s
I'm looking for advice on building by worn out LT1 into a 355....I will be getting a set of LE1 heads and cam with a ported intake........I have a decent builder thats been great to me,but I want to use tried and true parts....any advice would be great.....1995 z28 with a A4,373 gears,moroso CAI,3 in alum d/s
Ported intake is a wasted expense for a 355 so save some money there.
+1 ^ I have a 355 with a lt4 top end and yes my intake is ported only because I know my engine builder really good and he did it cheap! Do a ai or le heads an cam package turn stock crank, resize rods throw some arp rod bolts and of course gaskets push rods 1.6 rockers and tune you will be lookin around 400 rwhp !
^^^ basically what I did. Got the stock crank polished, resized stock rods, all new bearings, arp rod and main bolts. New pistons, bored .030 over. New gaskets throughout. Got my heads milled .020. LE cam and supporting valvetrain. That's the reliable budget way to go.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2012
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From: Oswego,Ny
Thanks for the info guys....Im trying not to spend more than 4,000 on the build...I just dumped 2,000 into a rebuilt trans(smoke the tires thru 3 gears/and when downshifting,....built like a brick shithouse..lmao) and 2800 stall.I was looking into the LE1 package setup. Will I need fuel injectors or a tune?...Thanks for the help...This site has tons of useful info..Im from Oswego Ny...Anyone close???
Mike
Mike
Yes you will need injectors and a tune, a REAL tune, not hypertech.
mcalus, I dont think you ever said in your build thread, but how much did that run you? The bottom end I mean.
mcalus, I dont think you ever said in your build thread, but how much did that run you? The bottom end I mean.
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Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2012
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From: Oswego,Ny
It was a local guy..real reputable...seems strong so far...and yes,it is billet...not a ring...I leave 2 mins from a super-modifed race track that's an 1/8 mile so I am trying local guys that build......I was leary of going local for a torque converter...I can only brake stall it to about 2300,but i love it...when i punch it i get a minor case of whiplash....lol
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my old combo was similar..........stock crank .010 under stock rods with arp bolts and a budget forged piston from speed pro........trick flow heads un ported 1.6 rockers and a decent sized ai custom grind cam.......i found gains in porting my intake also.......never dyno'd it accuratly but it ran 120mph in a 3500lb car
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2012
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From: Oswego,Ny
the shifts are just bumps at partial throttle...at wide when it shifts to 2nd the tires either spin or will snap yer head back...never spins going into 3rd but you can feel it....the converter is an 11 in 2800......its a daily driver......from mild to wild at the touch of the pedal...
Save your cash for when the tranny breaks. The 4L60E should NOT be setup to spin the tires at the shift with a bolton or mild LT1.
A car making power might spin them a small amount but if a bolton car is spinning them it is setup too hard. Did the guy say anything increadibly stupid like "blocked accumulation"?
An 11" converter is unlikely to be billet, probably a restalled 12" stock converter every GOOD 4L60E builder I know of wants 9.5" lockup units on the street and the serious drag guys will do 8" non-lockup.
A car making power might spin them a small amount but if a bolton car is spinning them it is setup too hard. Did the guy say anything increadibly stupid like "blocked accumulation"?
An 11" converter is unlikely to be billet, probably a restalled 12" stock converter every GOOD 4L60E builder I know of wants 9.5" lockup units on the street and the serious drag guys will do 8" non-lockup.
$600 for him to assemble the shortblock, boring, rings, bearings, polish crank, new rear main.... I supplied pistons, arp bolts.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2012
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From: Oswego,Ny
The trans was built to Dana's specs from Probuilt...It was air-checked as each piece was assembled....If it was a bad build,it was from dana's instructions. I have my thoughts on the converter,but the trans was built as specified.And why wouldnt my tires spin....putting more power to the wheels would cause wheelspin......and its only at wide open throttle.....not all the time....i need to have it in first and run it up hard and fast,i shift at 6000 and they spin.....if i run it up to the same rpm only at a slower rate the tires dont spin....just feel the shift.....daily aggressive driver and i def plan on takin it to the track....ported grantelli maf,mild cam(so i am told)bigger tb,3 in alum d/s,posi rear end,catback exhuast,Moroso CAI...with a 355 build this winter,LE1 heads and cam,and ported intake,pacesetterLT headers...i dont know if any of this makes a difference,but either way thanks for any and all advice
Last edited by mhaskins; Oct 4, 2012 at 07:44 PM.
