nitroheadz28

iTrader: (3)

I read that as of sometime in 2011 GMPP only sells reman optis which they claim to be new. Apparently they replace everything but the optical sensor.. Maybe someone will confirm?

shbox

Regardless of what they now are, I still feel they are going to be your best bet. I have not noticed any sudden stream of complaints about failures.

nitroheadz28

iTrader: (3)

Theres 1 that was just posted

shbox

1 is not a stream. Plus, there was absolutely no info in that thread about what the problem is/was. If you don't want to buy one, then don't.

Speedy

Umm, no. Everything is replaced except the casting.

The Delphi unit is all new, and it is the same unit as the AC Delco with the Mitsubishi optical sensor.

Check your coil first.

slingshot928

Check all of the wires for proper voltage coming out of the opti harness, and going into the ignition module. All you need is a halfway decent multimeter. This will let you know what is going on, throwing $400+ into the car without doing it is a waste of time and money. Take some time to understand the problem. If your mechanic doesn't understand how to diagnose the problem; find another one. There are many out there that are just "parts changers".

You will also need an E4, inverted torx socket to take the opti off (you can buy one at autozone, etc.) Also make sure when you take the opti off, you remember which hole the dowel pin goes into the cam.

From what I remember on my 93, I took the fans out because I have an electric water pump, the water pump housing, intake elbow and cai and that was all. It wasn't too hard of a fix.

And if it is the opti, buy AC Delco, 20k hard miles on mine so far, there was 80k on the first one until coolant leaked on it. It has seen 6000 rpm plenty of times.

nitroheadz28

iTrader: (3)

Will do, I'm going to buy a multimeter on monday.

I had the car up on a lift today and it looks like the front seal is leaking. The opti and 2 plug wires had some oil on it. Who knows if thats the culprit at this point, friggin GM and their idiot engineers with this design..

3Camaros

Why is anyone bothering to give this guy advice when he doesn't even change his own oil?

shbox

When people start blaming the engineers, I lose interest in the discussion. Every single car out there has its quirks and issues. You just have to be resourceful and equip yourself with enough knowledge to overcome.

3Camaros

Also with you there. 10 plus year old cars are supposed to be worked on, I always tell people if there car is more than 10 years old and they don't want to work on it themselves, they should move on. However with cheap parts and free labor I think it is possible to keep a F body running forever.

Speedy

Some oil seepage is normal with this design. A little will come out of the opti seal and the water pump shaft on the timing chain cover. Don't worry too much about that unless it is dripping.

Speedy

100% agree. When I sell my old cars they are in good condition, but I won't sell to some fool who can't remember which way to turn a wrench. Older F-bodies will run forever, that's good for rodders&tuners like us but people who are mechanically-retarded need to buy new.

nitroheadz28

iTrader: (3)

Wow, so someone doesn't change their own oil and people shouldn't bother giving advice to them? Dumbass..

Why don't I? Cause I live in NYC, furthermore- I do all of my work on the street. Getting out jacks/ tools/ changing into work clothes and packing all of it up takes me over an hour just to setup and break down, not to mention lugging **** around and getting dirty. Now when I'm rebuilding my suspension/ swapping starters or doing other things that take serious labor I break out my tools. Does that answer your question you arrogant *****?

I've had this car for 3 months and have worked on it more than an entire year of owning my grand prix. Not that I'm complaining, but comments like that are dumb.

Moving on with people who don't make assumptions that I don't maintain my cars or do my own work or maintenance...

Speedy- I have some oil dripping down onto the swaybar and steering rack, but it doesn't seem to be a large leak.

3Camaros

I think dumb would be buying a 1995 car with 200,000 miles with no good place to work on it, no tools to work on it (ie multimeter), and no desire to work on it. But is good to have so you can complain about the shops that work on it and the engineers that designed it (probably retired by now).

I see the subway in your future.

nitroheadz28

iTrader: (3)

Who the **** are you to judge who buys what? Go **** yourself, no desire to work on it my ***.

If you have nothing helpful to say then why butt in the thread? Especially when someone is trying to keep their car roadworthy and in good condition. I'm nothing but a car enthusiast, I enjoy my vehicles and make it a point to keep them in good shape- HENCE ME BEING HERE ASKING FOR HELP TO KEEP MY T/A GOING...

You want to know something else you idiot? I'm an engineering student who is about to graduate, and yes I still curse auto engineers for some of the stupid things they do despite knowing that they have time and budget constraints. **** yeah I'm going to complain about shops that do unsatisfactory work.. Honestly are you so hell bent on talking **** that you're going to throw anything you can out here to belittle me? LOL.

DisasterFormula

iTrader: (1)

Find a parking lot to a defunct business or a business that doesn't care. Problem solved. I've been a parking lot mechanic on my cars for 2 years.

nitroheadz28

iTrader: (3)

I recently became buddies with a body shop owner and he lets me use his lift and whatnot so that makes things somewhat easier despite being half an hour away.

But yeah like I said, tomorrow I'll buy a multimeter and start testing everything. I'm going to pray that its the coil.

3Camaros

And I am also an engineer with 20 years experience and have a PE license in 2 states - and that doesn't mean I know anything about cars. However I haved owned LT1s and LS1s for 15 years.

Maybe I was a little quick to assume, but you have a lot to learn.

So now some advice, I think you are describing a fuel pump going bad. You need to get a pressure gauge on it and test this theory. The pump is not that expensive but you either have to drop the rear end or cut a hole behind the seat to replace.

nitroheadz28

iTrader: (3)

Yes of course I do, I'm here to learn!!!!!!!

I don't understand why you had to rag on me because I live in a big city where space is extremely limited and I'd rather pay my mechanic $20 than waste half of my day on the most trivial maintenance you can do? The funny thing is that oil changes are the only thing I don't do, I've done everything from overhauling entire suspensions to parting a car out on the street. The only things I haven't done are engine and trans swaps.

I have a gauge off of my GP that I can try, but what doesn't make sense is 2 things:

1. Usually when FPs go bad, they'll get weaker the longer the car runs and die. Let it cool and it'll run. The car will suddenly jerk with the rpm drop only when I'm cruising at a steady RPM and will do it at random. Sometimes once, sometimes multiple times in a span of a few minutes. Today it happened 2x and the second time the rpms dropped to about 800 and it backfired for the first time.

2. The codes I'm having, theyre ignition related. If it did turn out the pump I'd be ecstatic, I have a spare new EP381 off a Vette from my Fiero build I could throw in with the proper fuel submersible hose. Dropping my first solid axle would be fun too.

nitroheadz28

iTrader: (3)

I havent had time to spare and someone to help crank the engine to test the ignition system today.

On my way to school it cut out and backfired once, the first time its ever happened under acceleration.

What I noticed is that during the last week or so since it started happening, its never happened to me on my way home at night when I'm in 6th the entire time cruising at 65. Strange.

I'll use this write up:

http://www.ls1lt1.com/forum/lt1-|-lt...optispark.html

Tomorrow morning with a buddy of mine to go through the system and see what is the culprit. I'm hoping for the coil or frayed wiring.

Once again thank you guys for the suggestions and help.

Also- For you guys who had similar experiences. How long did it take until your ignition (whatever the culprit was) took a dump with intermittent cutting out?