Thunderkyss

First, he didn't say he was looking for 360 hp. Second, it's not stupid, really stupid, or really, really stupid if he has to machine his crank at all. The cost of machining the crank makes it easier to chose a 383 when you can get a quality stroker kit for less than $700. I don't think the cost is as substantial as you think. If you're going to machine or replace your crank, you may as well stroke it.

Many people were happy with their 285 hp Z28 in 1997, even though we found that motor can make a lot more power, bigger cam, better breathing heads, improved exhaust, performance tune. So I have no problem thinking someone would appreciate the better torque curve from a 383 compared to a comparable 350.

emissions...... why wouldn't a 383 pass emissions?

The only added cost from a 383 would be clearancing the block... I personally don't think that should stop someone from stroking their block if that's what they want to do.

gjohnsonws6

iTrader: (12)

What the ****? A quality stroker kit for less than 700$ And stock heads won't go to 200 cc ? Ever heard of Advanced Induction? Are you just trying to **** us off with your ignorance?

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

A 383 certainly can pass emissions, nobody said it couldn't.

You linked a stroker kit with a weaker than stock crank for a 85 and earlier engine.

Thunderkyss

This is just an example of what you could do with a 383. Doesn't sound too wild: HotRod Article


That article mentioned using a CompCams XR294HR On CompCam's website, they dyno'd the same cam in a 350

Not that you can really compare the two. 505 hp from the 383 with gigantic 220 cc heads $1300/pr vs 420 hp from the 355 on Dart Sportsman II's (can't find DSIIs, but here are Dart SHPs 200 cc $1000/pr.


The 350 never cross 400 lb-ft of torque, where the 383 is making 491 lb-ft at 4000 rpm. I'd bet he's making 400 lb-ft at 3000 rpm even with smaller heads.

Thunderkyss

You're right, I shouldn't have said that about the 200cc heads. Should have said it's hard to tell how well his heads are ported. Just saying he's got a set of ported heads doesn't really say a whole lot. Need to get the specs from his guy.

Thunderkyss

Whoops..... had to get under $700. Here's a kit for $750

I don't know how to judge the strength vs stock.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

From doing a search on the different f-body forums for the victims of those who chose to go with an Eagle cast crank instead of forged.

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

Advanced Induction ported stock castings, 200cc variety. Nothing fancy.
www.advancedinduction.com

lt1needingboost

iTrader: (8)

i guess if someone wants to do a 383 let them do it i thot this was the point of this forum to learn and educate urself froms others past mistakes.........but o well u have ur mind made up glwb.....sorry i couldnt do more to assist u.

Thunderkyss

So.... what are you running now? If you're not running 11s, why not? If these forums are here to help guys like the original poster not make the mistakes others have, what was the mistake?

Sounds like things started to break when you stroked yours.

Thunderkyss

I understand that. The OP says he had a guy port his heads. I'm just saying I doubt his guy's porting is on par with AI's 200 cc casting, & that it would be difficult to quantify anyhow.

lt1needingboost

iTrader: (8)

havent had it to a track since, spending alot of time working out bugs very close tho. i also have a 98 h/c/i w a 150 shot that rarely gets shot.The car is very dependable as was this one before the motor build, its just alot of money to do it correctly if i had it to do over i wldntve i wldve put a p1 on my heads and cam that i had and i wldve saved a huge headache, for me i feel like u never stop spending,tranny, driveshaft,rear end,fuel system, 24x system cuz the 95 ecm cldnt keep up w the boost quik enuf. How many of us out here need more than 450 rwhp honestly in our weekend warrior cars i know i probably didnt. But i dont wanna thread steal on this guy imo i wld start w a stock btm end and do the top before i jumped into a stroker build agn just my opinion i dont claim to be a genius just another guy with way too much money wrapped up into a car .........

ABA383

iTrader: (1)

I can pm you with the specs on the build for my old 383 from my old Formula in my sig. Its extremely reliable and is still running strong after 17 years! We are just now replacing the comp 977 valve springs for the new owner that were original to the build in 1995. Its a very simple, dead nuts reliable, small cammed build that wasn't cheap, but recently ran an 11.20 @ 122 with a 1.47 60' on DRs and can be driven anywhere and has been. That's 17 years on the bottom end and valve springs...

--Alan

maxg1989

iTrader: (4)

I have a 383 lt4 stroker and I love it and would do it again in a heart beat. All in all it wasn't that bad of a build at all and I learned alot along the way. But alot of guys dump a ton of money in places and parts that they will never even come close to using to their full extent. Like a fully forged bottem end.... Please yeah they are nice and deff stronger.. But most will never use even a well made cast crank to the point of breaking it. That is in a NA build with "proper" that's the key "proper machine work" and a proper tune. I have a 95z t 56 with a lt4 383 that I built myself and it not converted to 4bolt mains its not a forged crank it's not forged pistons... But it makes 400wrhp/trq starts up every time idles nice has great brakes gets 25+mpg on the highway and runs like a raped ape and ill spin it too 6800-7000 rpm and not worry about it. And it's on a single 255lph file pump with stock lines stock file rails stock fpr stock trans stock rear end. My point is if you want to do it go for it it's fun but don't gt caught up in spending 2000$ on a rotating assembly that will handle 1500hp when your only going to be making 350-450. A cast crank will easily handle that. Again with proper machine work and tuning. So spend the money in areas where it will count like machine work arp main studs a good tune. All these guys talking about crazy fuel systems forged everything and all this jazz in my opinion it's all overkill for a motor making 350-450 to the wheels.. Like I said before my car makes 4 to the wheels and its a completely cast rotating assembly by eagle except for forged rods, cause I don't think they make cast aftermarket rods that often ha.. 2bolt mains cast pistons lt4 heads edelbrok lt4 intake completely stock fuel system + a 255 Lph pump cause the stocker died and 58mmthrottle body and 36# injectors and I'm not even close to topping those out. Stock rear end and trans with a Kevlar clutch and a autozone pressure plate. Drive it daily. And by daily I mean every day in the summer rain or shine.

If you want to do it go for it but don't get carried away or caught up in a monster build. Yeah I had my head aches along the way but that's all part I'd the learning exaperience. I even tuned the thing myself! Save money where you can and spend it where it counts!

Good luck hope this is a more positive outlook than the others I have read.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

Do a search here and you will find that for the last maybe 5 years the Eagle cast cranks have been really fragile, plenty of documented cases of mild strokers turning them into metallic gravel.

I don't care about your dyno numbers show us some MPG at the track to verify your engine makes power. Also like I said the eagle cast cranks being very fragile seems to be recent years, how old is your's?
Far as saving a buck you want to save a buck use the stock crank it is unquestionably stronger than the Eagle cast and that frees up money to put into the heads and valvetrain where it will make a lot more extra power per dollar spent.

If buying a crank and doing a full engine build then the extra $300 for a forged crank now is insurance should you decide you want more later, a little overkill now is cheaper than having to start over later because you want a little more power and a hell of a lot cheaper than what happend to the MANY shattered eagle cast cranks around here the last few years.

maxg1989

iTrader: (4)

Oh no doubt that eagle cast cranks suck! Ill be the first to say that especially their cast and in recent years. Eagle has been struggling with their cast cranks all I'm saying is it can be done and you don't have to go crazy with forged everything. Eagle has been crap recently even their rods have been junk exactly why I'm not using then for my LSx build.
My 383 is 3 years old now I think. But again going back to good machine work and the crank I bought was specd out and tested and balanced and I haven't had a problem.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

To me it is reuse stock stuff or go forged, no reason to use anything in between. If the cheaper stuff lasts then the stock stuff would have lasted and whatever you spent on a cast crank and hypereutetic pistons was wasted and would have been better spent on topend. So I would argue a cast stroker is a bigger waste of money than a forged one. At least the forged one you should be able to do whatever you want to and it will hold up.

I do think people are much too quick to jump on the stroker bandwagon, it is a lot of extra money for relatively little gain unless you are aiming for a pretty low ET. I know now comes the "torque on the street" argument. Put the right topend on a 350/355 and you have your hands full enough on the street.

BIGCAT7274

building a 383 "the right way" is a matter of intended goals.