Lifter Bore
The advantages are, for pretty much any LT1 application, there is absolutely no reason to do it unless you are partial to using a block that has a damaged lifter bore. Depending on the damage a competent machine shop would tell you to find another block.
Whoa now, easy big fella!
Whoa now, easy big fella!
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From: Orlando
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Advantages would be strength and reliability. Disadvantage would be the high cost. The question you should ask is why you think you need it. I don't think it would be something you would consider for a street car, unless you just have money to blow.
I can understand RamAir95TA's reaction to the question.
I can understand RamAir95TA's reaction to the question.
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From: LT1 land...the "409" of the 90s!
Advantages. Much better roller with bigger lifter. Can run keyed lfters. Can Center Lifters properly over lobes. More control on Nasty cams
Disadvantage? $1,000 minimum here to get it done properly and bushed
Disadvantage? $1,000 minimum here to get it done properly and bushed
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If i was going to run a larger lifter it would at least be a Chrysler .904, i have access to the BHJ lifter bore fixture. It would cost a pretty penny and not be necessary for a hydraulic roller setup.
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From: LT1 land...the "409" of the 90s!
I opted to make sure lifter bores were good and then Comp Elite lifters went in. With over .700 lift I would have liked the bigger lifters. As it was the lifters were $$$$. They made Morels look cheap!
in his thread on piston choice he said he was looking for 450-520hp presumably flywheel for his daily driver.
Now Ellis I know you are not suggesting this for him but I just want to make a point that your build is aiming for what more than DOUBLE that number? What makes sense for you to do on your build is a whole world apart from a modest hydraulic daily driver.
Now Ellis I know you are not suggesting this for him but I just want to make a point that your build is aiming for what more than DOUBLE that number? What makes sense for you to do on your build is a whole world apart from a modest hydraulic daily driver.
.904 lifters aren't even necessary for 90% of solid rollers. My motor is ~1,900hp with nitrous, 8,000 RPM, triple valve springs set at 330lbs on the seat, 950lbs open, and runs standard diameter Chevy lifters. The same size your LT1 runs. That stuff is for Pro Mods and big motors
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Thanks for the info though! .904 lifters aren't even necessary for 90% of solid rollers. My motor is ~1,900hp with nitrous, 8,000 RPM, triple valve springs set at 330lbs on the seat, 950lbs open, and runs standard diameter Chevy lifters. The same size your LT1 runs. That stuff is for Pro Mods and big motors
Last edited by fex77k; Nov 10, 2012 at 10:11 PM.
the little stuff is small numbers, the bottom end is just an air pump. top end is the key and it cost serious money for top shelf
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I have been running the same hydraulic roller lifters for 10 years. Been running in the 9`s for most of them. Solid roller will not live as long as a hydraulic roller. A well put together combination is all you need for you goals. But i do understand if you want to try and forge another path.
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I have been running the same hydraulic roller lifters for 10 years. Been running in the 9`s for most of them. Solid roller will not live as long as a hydraulic roller. A well put together combination is all you need for you goals. But i do understand if you want to try and forge another path.
1. How high can you spin the best on the market Hyds rollers and can you recommend what Lifters those would be? I heard they bleed at over 7200rpms. I want to stick with stock crank & rods (355ci-358ci) so I will need to spin high to make good power!
2. I know its a dumb question and it depends on heads, cam, compression ect, but on average how much power do solids make over hyds?
I was thinking if I go Solid Roller Id go with Crowers Needless EnduraMax Lifters. My plan is T&D Shaft mount rockers, High Roller Rocker Ratio 1.7-1.8, titanium valves for less rotational mass, double valve springs. Most of my money will go into top end. I dont want to half *** my first build and planning it smart. I would appreciate the detailed info. Thanks guys
I didn't need any of those fancy parts you're talking about and I make the power you want reliably. I agree with Dwayne - you're trying to reinvent the wheel. There are some heavy hitters in this post and none of them agree with your plan.
JMO, but if this is your first build I think you need to keep it simple. Too many times I've seen people buy a crap load of parts, take pictures of them, post them up, take pics of their car getting torn down, pictures of the car with a 5 gallon bucket filled to the brim with car parts, nuts and bolts and then a few months later they either disappear or end up selling everything because they were in over their head or the help they were depending on bailed. Not saying it would happen to you, but you really should take everything into consideration when doing your first build. The best way you are going to learn is if you do it on your own, and/or have someone there to help you and guide you who knows what they're doing. I would suggest going with a simple, proven heads/cam combo at first to where you can still use your PCM for the combo's power range. Guaranteed you will be happy with the results if it is done right. Do your research on members here and CZ28.com who have used AI. I would also suggest GTP, but there's not a lot of people who use them anymore, but Craig Gallant was one of the first to ever get real power out of the LT1 head and knows his ****. He's also VERY easy to talk to and is, even after all these years still very passionate about his work.
Again, JMHO
Again, JMHO