Need help/ suggestions with my lt4
11-18-2012, 08:29 PM
#21
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well if you have an lt4 kit and your running with stock/lightly modded ls1's your probably about on par, a stock lt1 isnt as powerful as an ls1 stock for stock
11-21-2012, 01:20 AM
#22
With a decent cam, ported LT4 heads, balanced/blueprinted bottom end, proper tuning, 400rwhp would be totally possible. Obviously, more info about the mods would be great to estimate a ballpark for the power, but it is a definite possibility to be in that power range.
Also, opti's arent too bad. Several hours and simple hand tools and you can switch it out. Plenty of how-to's and info available. A properly installed and cared for quality opti-spark will last 100k+ miles. You'll likely go through several sets of tires before needing to replace an opti-spark, yet everyone deams that as "part of the hobby". That's all an opti is, a wear item that will eventually fail like every other piece of any machine. /end opti-rant
IMO If spending a few hundred bucks and several hours working on a car isn't up your alley, owning any performance car will end up being very costly. People on here want to help, or they wouldn't be here. Some might come off like dick-heads sometimes, but they are just trying to help, and many of them are very knowledgable. You'll be able to scope out who some of the guru's on here are once you spend a little more time on here and do some looking around. Nobody's on here to hinder you...(except those couple Mustang trolls that stop in from time to time)... lol jk
Also, opti's arent too bad. Several hours and simple hand tools and you can switch it out. Plenty of how-to's and info available. A properly installed and cared for quality opti-spark will last 100k+ miles. You'll likely go through several sets of tires before needing to replace an opti-spark, yet everyone deams that as "part of the hobby". That's all an opti is, a wear item that will eventually fail like every other piece of any machine. /end opti-rant
IMO If spending a few hundred bucks and several hours working on a car isn't up your alley, owning any performance car will end up being very costly. People on here want to help, or they wouldn't be here. Some might come off like dick-heads sometimes, but they are just trying to help, and many of them are very knowledgable. You'll be able to scope out who some of the guru's on here are once you spend a little more time on here and do some looking around. Nobody's on here to hinder you...(except those couple Mustang trolls that stop in from time to time)... lol jk
Last edited by MasterTomos; 11-21-2012 at 01:29 AM.
11-21-2012, 05:38 AM
#23
Take a look at the front of your heads and see if they say EDELBROCK in cursive on them. Like this:
If they dont, pull a valvecover and post up the casting number on the heads. 10128374 and 10207643 are the 2 good LT1 heads for porting, 12556890 is the casting number for TRUE LT4 heads. If you have 10128649 for a casting number, those are the least desireable heads, next to the iron heads.
If they dont, pull a valvecover and post up the casting number on the heads. 10128374 and 10207643 are the 2 good LT1 heads for porting, 12556890 is the casting number for TRUE LT4 heads. If you have 10128649 for a casting number, those are the least desireable heads, next to the iron heads.
11-21-2012, 08:03 AM
#24
A "decent cam" and ported LT4 can get 400rwhp but a HOT cam and LT4 heads wont. The Edelcrap LT4 kit is rated at 406flywheel HP so it makes less power than the GM LT4 kit and the GM LT4 intake is internally and LT1 intake.
I do know of one person that claimed over 400rwhp from a full LT4 topend BUT he also admitted a lot of other effort put into the engine, not the average halfassed rebuild.
I do know of one person that claimed over 400rwhp from a full LT4 topend BUT he also admitted a lot of other effort put into the engine, not the average halfassed rebuild.
11-23-2012, 02:27 AM
#25
A "decent cam" and ported LT4 can get 400rwhp but a HOT cam and LT4 heads wont. The Edelcrap LT4 kit is rated at 406flywheel HP so it makes less power than the GM LT4 kit and the GM LT4 intake is internally and LT1 intake.
I do know of one person that claimed over 400rwhp from a full LT4 topend BUT he also admitted a lot of other effort put into the engine, not the average halfassed rebuild.
I do know of one person that claimed over 400rwhp from a full LT4 topend BUT he also admitted a lot of other effort put into the engine, not the average halfassed rebuild.
Next step is figuring out what the heads are (or were to begin with). Check the casting numbers, or easier yet, check the # on the intake manifold. LT4 heads mate to an LT4 intake, and LT1 heads to an LT1 intake. So, if you've got an LT1 intake, you know you don't have LT4 heads, ect.
11-23-2012, 08:07 AM
#26
its a 97 camaro. the tranny is just a ws6 rebuild, the motor is balanced and blue printed, bored 30over, it has an lt4 cam/lt4 kit, ported and polished cast heads, i called a shop that specializes in ls an lt and told him whats going on and he said the opti being faulty is causing alot of loss of power and that i may need to replace the water pump becuase i guess they leak on that sensor and can cause damage and that may be what of happened.
Maybe I missed it, but I don't see where he said it was a hot cam? I thought the cam specs were unknown at this point, so I was just speculating that 400rwhp is a possibility (although we can't say a probability for anything without more info). Some people were just coming off like 400rwhp was impossible.
Next step is figuring out what the heads are (or were to begin with). Check the casting numbers, or easier yet, check the # on the intake manifold. LT4 heads mate to an LT4 intake, and LT1 heads to an LT1 intake. So, if you've got an LT1 intake, you know you don't have LT4 heads, ect.
Next step is figuring out what the heads are (or were to begin with). Check the casting numbers, or easier yet, check the # on the intake manifold. LT4 heads mate to an LT4 intake, and LT1 heads to an LT1 intake. So, if you've got an LT1 intake, you know you don't have LT4 heads, ect.
That said when we see stupid **** like "LT4 TB" it gets very easy to make an experienced guess the builder was a retard. LT4 injectors probably cost more than a set of SVO 30lbs which would be another indication of stupidity.
Far as the heads and intake it would be a good idea to look at casting numbers but your statements about LT4 and LT1 heads mixing is pretty typically ignorant.
The LT4 intake is internally the SAME as the later small port LT1 intakes, the difference is the LT4 intake has more material above the port. An LT1 intake bolts on just fine and even seals OK, the sealing margin is just narrow.
Many LT4 intakes have been bolted to LT1 heads by stupid people who ASSumed it was an upgrade, I have even seen people claim no mods were needed though typically either a bit of the valve cover rail on the head needs to be milled or some of that extra material above the ports needs to be milled off so it doesn't interfere with the VC rail on the heads.
Hell I hope the OP is the ignorant(lacking knowledge different than stupid) one repeating it all wrong and he actually got what he was sold and will have a great car once this issue is resolved and he learns what it is and how to maintain it. Problem is we have seen so many trainwreck cars bought by ignorant newbies over the years it is a whole lot easier to expect that to be the case.
11-23-2012, 08:16 AM
#27
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It's a manual. You asked what tranny and i said its a rubuilt out of a ws6, anyways bro I came on here asking for help because I know I don't know a lot about them. not to hear your ******* remarks, ok well I got the car for a good deal either way, I don't need 400hp...just wanted to know if that's were I'm loosin power
11-23-2012, 09:26 AM
#29
As best I can tell the WS6 was available as either A4 or M6.
He had to asked repeatedly by multiple people to get him to say manual.
It is ******* hard to help someone when they either refuse to give the info about the car. Harder yet when they don't know what the car is and worse yet when it appears to have been built by a retard.
Most of us here want to help those who are receptive to help.
12-01-2012, 04:20 AM
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With a decent cam, ported LT4 heads, balanced/blueprinted bottom end, proper tuning, 400rwhp would be totally possible. Obviously, more info about the mods would be great to estimate a ballpark for the power, but it is a definite possibility to be in that power range.
Also, opti's arent too bad. Several hours and simple hand tools and you can switch it out. Plenty of how-to's and info available. A properly installed and cared for quality opti-spark will last 100k+ miles. You'll likely go through several sets of tires before needing to replace an opti-spark, yet everyone deams that as "part of the hobby". That's all an opti is, a wear item that will eventually fail like every other piece of any machine. /end opti-rant
IMO If spending a few hundred bucks and several hours working on a car isn't up your alley, owning any performance car will end up being very costly. People on here want to help, or they wouldn't be here. Some might come off like dick-heads sometimes, but they are just trying to help, and many of them are very knowledgable. You'll be able to scope out who some of the guru's on here are once you spend a little more time on here and do some looking around. Nobody's on here to hinder you...(except those couple Mustang trolls that stop in from time to time)... lol jk
Also, opti's arent too bad. Several hours and simple hand tools and you can switch it out. Plenty of how-to's and info available. A properly installed and cared for quality opti-spark will last 100k+ miles. You'll likely go through several sets of tires before needing to replace an opti-spark, yet everyone deams that as "part of the hobby". That's all an opti is, a wear item that will eventually fail like every other piece of any machine. /end opti-rant
IMO If spending a few hundred bucks and several hours working on a car isn't up your alley, owning any performance car will end up being very costly. People on here want to help, or they wouldn't be here. Some might come off like dick-heads sometimes, but they are just trying to help, and many of them are very knowledgable. You'll be able to scope out who some of the guru's on here are once you spend a little more time on here and do some looking around. Nobody's on here to hinder you...(except those couple Mustang trolls that stop in from time to time)... lol jk
Take a look at the front of your heads and see if they say EDELBROCK in cursive on them. Like this:
If they dont, pull a valvecover and post up the casting number on the heads. 10128374 and 10207643 are the 2 good LT1 heads for porting, 12556890 is the casting number for TRUE LT4 heads. If you have 10128649 for a casting number, those are the least desireable heads, next to the iron heads.
If they dont, pull a valvecover and post up the casting number on the heads. 10128374 and 10207643 are the 2 good LT1 heads for porting, 12556890 is the casting number for TRUE LT4 heads. If you have 10128649 for a casting number, those are the least desireable heads, next to the iron heads.
That said when we see stupid **** like "LT4 TB" it gets very easy to make an experienced guess the builder was a retard. LT4 injectors probably cost more than a set of SVO 30lbs which would be another indication of stupidity.
Far as the heads and intake it would be a good idea to look at casting numbers but your statements about LT4 and LT1 heads mixing is pretty typically ignorant.
The LT4 intake is internally the SAME as the later small port LT1 intakes, the difference is the LT4 intake has more material above the port. An LT1 intake bolts on just fine and even seals OK, the sealing margin is just narrow.
Many LT4 intakes have been bolted to LT1 heads by stupid people who ASSumed it was an upgrade, I have even seen people claim no mods were needed though typically either a bit of the valve cover rail on the head needs to be milled or some of that extra material above the ports needs to be milled off so it doesn't interfere with the VC rail on the heads.
Hell I hope the OP is the ignorant(lacking knowledge different than stupid) one repeating it all wrong and he actually got what he was sold and will have a great car once this issue is resolved and he learns what it is and how to maintain it. Problem is we have seen so many trainwreck cars bought by ignorant newbies over the years it is a whole lot easier to expect that to be the case.
Far as the heads and intake it would be a good idea to look at casting numbers but your statements about LT4 and LT1 heads mixing is pretty typically ignorant.
The LT4 intake is internally the SAME as the later small port LT1 intakes, the difference is the LT4 intake has more material above the port. An LT1 intake bolts on just fine and even seals OK, the sealing margin is just narrow.
Many LT4 intakes have been bolted to LT1 heads by stupid people who ASSumed it was an upgrade, I have even seen people claim no mods were needed though typically either a bit of the valve cover rail on the head needs to be milled or some of that extra material above the ports needs to be milled off so it doesn't interfere with the VC rail on the heads.
Hell I hope the OP is the ignorant(lacking knowledge different than stupid) one repeating it all wrong and he actually got what he was sold and will have a great car once this issue is resolved and he learns what it is and how to maintain it. Problem is we have seen so many trainwreck cars bought by ignorant newbies over the years it is a whole lot easier to expect that to be the case.
As best I can tell the WS6 was available as either A4 or M6.
He had to asked repeatedly by multiple people to get him to say manual.
It is ******* hard to help someone when they either refuse to give the info about the car. Harder yet when they don't know what the car is and worse yet when it appears to have been built by a retard.
Most of us here want to help those who are receptive to help.
He had to asked repeatedly by multiple people to get him to say manual.
It is ******* hard to help someone when they either refuse to give the info about the car. Harder yet when they don't know what the car is and worse yet when it appears to have been built by a retard.
Most of us here want to help those who are receptive to help.
thank you for your help and yea i dont mind spending the money or time(when i have it), i replaced the distributor, new spark plugs and wires, cooler thermostat and a new water pump sealed with rtv just in case it decided it wanted to start leaking on the distributor again...took me about 4 hours(im not the fastest)...i am a very busy individual and i was giving what info i was told about the car...just didnt see the need for the guy to be a *****, i appreciate what help people have given me. after working on the car and looking at it the car i found it has impala ss ported an polished heads(not the lt4 so the guy claimed) and its got a lt1 intake. this all being said though i am happy with my car now after replacing my opti,plugs and wires...is it pushing 400HP?? NO..., lol BUT it runs and sounds healthy and its in immaculate condition inside and out. i spent $4000 buying the car and spent $600 on parts. so for $4600 its become a good deal. thank you guys! quick question though, what would the recommended timing be in your opinions/knowledge? ive been told with the cam that your supposed to set the timing "retarted"
12-01-2012, 01:42 PM
#32
after working on the car and looking at it the car i found it has impala ss ported an polished heads(not the lt4 so the guy claimed) and its got a lt1 intake. this all being said though i am happy with my car now after replacing my opti,plugs and wires...is it pushing 400HP?? NO..., lol BUT it runs and sounds healthy and its in immaculate condition inside and out. i spent $4000 buying the car and spent $600 on parts. so for $4600 its become a good deal. thank you guys! quick question though, what would the recommended timing be in your opinions/knowledge? ive been told with the cam that your supposed to set the timing "retarted"
Ive also got a feeling that you were lied to when you were told it has a cam. Ill almost bet its completely stock internally, and has the potential to be an old caprice engine if the heads are indeed cast iron. I would pull your intake and take a look at the ports and see if they even are really ported.
12-01-2012, 07:31 PM
#33
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If your heads are aluminum and not cast iron, then whoever told you they were Impala SS heads lied to you too. First, Impala SS's got iron heads, the exact same iron heads as the Fleetwood, Caprice, and Roadmaster. Second, people dont normally port iron heads when the same design in aluminum is so plentiful and cheap, so Im betting you have aluminum heads.
Ive also got a feeling that you were lied to when you were told it has a cam. Ill almost bet its completely stock internally, and has the potential to be an old caprice engine if the heads are indeed cast iron. I would pull your intake and take a look at the ports and see if they even are really ported.
Ive also got a feeling that you were lied to when you were told it has a cam. Ill almost bet its completely stock internally, and has the potential to be an old caprice engine if the heads are indeed cast iron. I would pull your intake and take a look at the ports and see if they even are really ported.
12-01-2012, 08:21 PM
#35
The aluminum head cars were fine, yes they pop head gaskets more often than the iron head motors but still a fairly rare occurance, not like they are an old Sunbird or the like.
Sounds like you bought the car from a clueless idiot who was also a liar and had some advise given to him by someone who stopped learning about cars a few decades ago.
Sounds like you bought the car from a clueless idiot who was also a liar and had some advise given to him by someone who stopped learning about cars a few decades ago.
