i have a 2 bolt main LT1 block that is going to be bored .030 over and i have been thinking about building a stroker out it.... just wondering what some of the pros and cons are to a stroker are? looking to get about 400-450 hp out of it... the block is completly bare everything is being replaced.... any ideas for rotating assembly and cam combos?

 

You have the front and rear main caps still?

 

I would shelve the build for now. You are talking about displacement and cam, you are talking like you think it is possible you need an OEM 4-bolt block. If a flywheel HP gaol your goal is very easily attained with a stock shortblock.

You are not ready to plan this.

Heads are the most critical part of an engine build and you didn't even mention them.
Most folks prefer to start with a 2-bolt main if they are going to do a 4-bolt main build even.

Far as rotating assembly forged crank or stock crank, do not use an aftermarket cast one. The stock one is very strong.

I did a detailed comparison between two cars with the same heads and cams by the same company one a 350 the other a 383, the 383 had 6 degrees more cam duration and half a point more compression and made about 7% more HP. I say that not to say a stroker is bad, but the additional power you get from the extra displacement is a lot less than newbs assume.

How is the rest of the car setup?

 

correct me if im wrong but doesn't more cubes handle big cams better as in idle quality/drivability? example: a 350 with a 24x/25x 6xx lift cam wouldnt idle/cruise as good as the 383 with the same cam?

 

Yes displacement allows you to run a little bigger cam. Like I said the in the above noted example the stroker DID GET A BIGGER CAM and a little more compression and still it was only up 7%.

A lot of stupid people blindly assume power will increase by the same amount as the displacement does given the same heads and cam. An idiot making that statement was why I made the detailed comparison of the 350 and 383 cars both are outstanding performers too, both 10 second NA cars so neither is screwedup or anything

 

My knowledge isn't as in depth as some of these guys but I'm fairly certain that drivability and idle is only based off of the TUNE. I know some guys on here have multiple tunes, for instance one for the track and one for the street or many other variations thereof.

 

i wonder what would have more power with an exact same cam and compression... it would probably be way closer.

 

96Capricemr is right. My SD LT-1 dynoed (re-dynoed tuned) 411 @ the wheels with all the junk I threw at it. My 93 has the famed LE intake, 58 mm throttlebody, 36 lb fuel inj, afr heads, cam, headers, tune and re-worked exhaust.......thats it! Re-think your plan like 96Caprice said....

 

Quality of tune can affect idle and drivability and such but that said a long duration tight lobe separation cam is never going to idle like stock. Tune is a variable not a complete solution.

Far as multiple tunes the only reason I can see for that in an NA car would be changing fuel. Otherwise the pcm has a LOT of tables to scale everything off of and you can make it do pretty much whatever it needs to based on changing conditions.


englundjd, yes it stands to reason that if the two setups in question had the same cam and compression then the 7% figure would likely come down.
There definitely are benefits to a stroker but the cost is a lot more than most think going in and then they endup halfassing the topend to stay in budget and endup with a joke.

 

Either way, a stroker is completely unnecessary for your goal of 450 hp.

 

Okay with all that was said above..you will have no problem running a stroked 2 bolt main block..may people are running 383CI 2 Bolt mains (Me included). Never had a problem with it.

 

Even if the goal is 450hp I'd still do a stroker for the sake of torque and the broader hp curve. Makes driving on the street far more enjoyable.

 

two bolt main is fine for <7000 rpm and <500hp wouldn't be afraid of it at all

 

Far as the stroker thing if you need to buy a crank I wouldn't bother with a stock stroke forged or if the budget is there to do a forged stroker crank and still put good money into the topend then GREAT.
What we see too often though is guys so focused on displacement that they don't have the understanding they need to address the topend or lack the budget to then still do the topend.

A well setup 350-355 can break the rear loose at 45mph in a decent chassis on street tires, how much more torque is useable?

 

I have said this a 100x on this site, i truly understantand the point of a stroker but w a goal of 450 hp y? Save ur money for down the road when ur trying to to those 450 hp down on the ground. the stock btm end on these cars are plenty set up for that goal do a H/C combo and be done spend ur money on one of the other 100s of things u will need it for tune, exhaust,stall,suspension,tires,rear end gear ............... uve gotta put that 450 down to the road somehow

 

That is another good point, the car itself needs a lot of supporting mods to handle a modified engine, something else people rarely budget for.

 

Question still has gone unanswered as to whether or not you still have the front and rear main caps. If you don't you may have to trash the block because trying to line bore new caps and keep everything square is about impossible and most shops will tell you to punch sand and get another block.

 

i myself wld nvr do a 2 bolt main stroker if u were spending that kinda money on a stroker y wldnt u get a 4 bolt or splay it but then agn guys r on here talking abt $700 stroker kits, i dont think ppl understand to do a forged stroker u r gonna spend at least 5k probably more and thats only btm end now figure another 3k for the top end..........Now all the other things come up that i just talked abt cuz its pretty stupid to have 8k in a engine if u cant put it down to the road.

 

The 10.4 second NA Impala is studded 2-bolt last I heard. I would file 4-bolt conversion under the same sort of catagory as a stroker. If you have the coin do it, but at the same time for most builds the shop can tighten up the caps a little and line hone with some main studs and it will be just fine. If you are aiming real high rpm wise or heavy power adder use then yeah it becomes a better idea, but for the normal NA hydraulic stroker don't let 4-bolt conversion get in the way of more important things.

 

point taken, i can see that. im fi but if i knew then what i knew now i probably wldve ran a low boost p1 w a stock bottom end and saved a pile of money and not had to deal w the headaches of 700+ hp car its totally unnecessary for a street car im keeping up w whatever weekens nxt at this point i will get to a point where it will all be pretty bulletproof(if there is such a thing) but at that point it will b closer to a track car than a wknd driver which is what i wanted , luckily i have a 98 ta w H/C/I w a 100 shot that gets used for that, but then agn whats the point of two of the exact same car.