'95 Camaro On a Diet
measurements for the air intake. I need to zip tie some wiring here and there but it's in
place. Now I'm trying to figure out how to mount the radiator but it's turning out to be a
PITA. I also finally installed the MWC HVAC plate and it fit great
I'm going to get some aluminum and try to design something to mount the rad, maybe like
TubarUnit did on his car, but I'm just not sure what just yet lol.
So simple plan this week is to pull the wheels and clean them up, work on the rad mount,
wire the EWP through the AIR pump relay, and pull the passenger side header and
"massage" the tube a touch more.
Last edited by Turnin20s; Apr 15, 2013 at 01:32 AM.
driver side wheel well like most of the aftermarket ones do, but with a bigger filter and it will
be all aluminum so it should be nice and light. I'm also going to plumb the driver side fog
light opening into the wheel well to try to get more "fresh" air in there. I'm going to do a
couple of logs and see if it makes a difference in IAT temp.
This week I'm going to try to get the front end put back together so I can start fitting the hood next weekend. I have a couple more wires to pull out of the interior then that can start going back together.









Stay tuned for more pics


If that goes well I will try my hand at tapping the power steering reservoir and finish up the return line for that.I would like to get the hood installed or at least started this weekend, then I need to get the interior back in


I also messed with the water pump some more and got the other 2 hose barbs out of it. The drill bits should be here early next week, then I can tap and plug the unused holes and put the pump back on.
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
I had plans for a sealed setup, but standing the rad up hurt that idea. I saved the LS1 lid and base and I have plans to hack it up and try and make that work down the road, but for now the setup I built should work perfectly and it's really simple and should get plenty of "cold" air. I may try to duct air in from the driver side fog light hole into where the filter is, but I don't want to add any more weight than I have to.
Eventually I might build an aluminum box that the LS1 lid will clamp onto and run hoses to the sides of the airdam to make a ram air setup, but now I'm just thinking out loud.
I will say it was an easy project that took me months to do lol. I had the whole dash out of my car so the cluster was just laying there and I can't leave anything alone 
If you need any more info or any special pics I can snap some since the dash is still out, but it should be going back together soon
BTW thanks, I really like how it turned out. It is actually one of my favorite mods I have done in awhile, mostly because I will see it every time I'm behind the wheel
BTW thanks, I really like how it turned out. It is actually one of my favorite mods I have done in awhile, mostly because I will see it every time I'm behind the wheel

I went out this afternoon and took some pics, but its really hard to see anything. I just drilled through the gauge face layer, if you drill through the whole cluster I think the cluster would be ruined.
I ordered some new LEDs for the gauges, I got some 90* 4 LED bulbs this time around instead of the single LEDs I have currently. Seeing the gauges at night was a bit hard with the white overlays and I'm hoping these will light it up better without creating hot spots.
But then I can run my brake lines and check one more thing off of my list.The drill bits should be here today so I can finish plugging up my water pump and I can reinstall that.
I'll try to get some pics tonight
All brake lines relocated along the firewall so that you can drop the k-member without having to disconnect them. I didn't get to see any pics, but it sounds like it would be nice to do while things are out.
All brake lines relocated along the firewall so that you can drop the k-member without having to disconnect them. I didn't get to see any pics, but it sounds like it would be nice to do while things are out.
Right now they come down and back then run along the shock tower to the proportioning valve which is mounted on the "frame" rail. The prop valve is right next to the power steering pump so adjustments are really easy to do.
Thanks for the idea
I may do that when I put the L33 motor in it
I didn't finish 100% because the LEDs for the dash aren't in yet and I want to clean it really well before it's all back together. While putting some of the bottom screws in I was looking around under there and can't believe how much room is under there now. That and no insulation at all anymore I hope it's not TOO loudI also tapped the water pump for the pipe threads so I need to clean that up really good and then it can go back on. It came out really good IMO and really cleans it up and now I don't have to worry about any rubber caps popping off. I put a barb fitting in the return from the heater core and now the steam port on the heads will route there instead of the radiator, hopefully it works.
This weekend I'm going to clean up the carpet really well and dye it black (it's tan right now). And then try to get the radiator mounted and try to figure out some hoses for it.
Baby steps....
Tonight after work I plan on getting the dash 100% back together. Tomorrow I'm going to try to recruit my brother to help me dye the carpet and get the radiator mounted.





