nitrous2fast

iTrader: (2)

Wow, just wow.... a 340 is cheaper than two 255s. Anyone ever thought about just changing the electrical bulkhead??? This really isn't a big problem that requires a lot of talking to solve.

Racetronix

iTrader: (2)

We do not offer a PnP bulkhead solution for the FLT1 cars as of yet. We should have something in the next couple months. The FPWK-017 above is for 99-02 f-body cars ONLY! 1998 f-body cars will require a different solution as well.

A Stealth 340 pump is about the same price as two Walbro pumps given the $80-$90 street price for a Walbro and $170 for the AM340's (which will be going up again soon).

Many people do not require a Stealth pump. Adding extra electrical load and heat to the fuel should be avoided unless one actually needs the fuel volume that the AM340 provides. In some cases the AM340 will overwhelm the factory regulator and return system causing and uncontrollable pressure rise. Careful thought should be given to selecting the right pump for a given application.

nitrous2fast

iTrader: (2)

Sorry racetronix, but most of the problems that these cars face do not require a PnP kit to do it properly. Most people that require more than a single 255 will be putting in larger fuel bulkheads and if they can do that, they probably can find a suitable bulkhead and modify the fuel hat to accept it and not require a PnP kit. I commend you for making some of these things available PnP, but many/most will probably never need one.

Racetronix

iTrader: (2)

LOL yes, there is just a plethora of vapour-proof and fuel-safe wiring solutions on the market at reasonable prices that do not require mods to install. Maybe you are a devout DIY person but the majority of customers are not. Most people prefer a simple, proven PnP solution without the need to hunt down parts and piece things together. To each their own...

sweetbmxrider

iTrader: (13)

This thread just got hardcore.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

Did you consider the electrical capabilities of the stock bulkhead connector and upgrade it?

starbucks

At this point I a very confused, I have the racetronixs hot wire kit can I run the 340 or not?

Racetronix

iTrader: (2)

You can but you can expect reduced performance with the factory bulkhead wiring. Depending on it's age the wiring may fail sooner than later.

lt1needingboost

iTrader: (8)

let me sort this out for u since we have alot of opinions and everyone has there own agenda what the downfall of these pumps is is they draw higher amps which requires larger wire now that kit u bought doesnt go into the actual gas tank so to run a 340 correctly safely u wld have two run a 10ga and a 12ga wire into the gas tank and solder them and shrinkwrak and now the 10 has to be the positive side and the 12 being the ground its honestly a lil overboard but its ur gas tank so respect it then u need a vaporproof grommet to run these wires through to get from the pump to ur 10 ga at ur relay this is what i have done but i run a dbl w a hobbs switch so the onlything that my stock connector does is fuel guage senser if u have an electrical supply house ard one of the bulkhead fittings shld be ez to find now, in saying all of this i run this pump because i need it if u only need a 255 pump y wld u go thru all the trouble i doing this just buy the pump kit 96 mentioned an be done w it. I am a elctrictrician so im comfortable w doing this stuff pnp is much easier and safer if u dont need this pump last i checked u cld do like 500 rwhp na w a 255 maxed out i might be wrong but if u dont need this particular pump dont use it cuz it takes alot to get it done.SAFELY hopefully this answers ur ?s

starbucks

Thanks for clearing that up lt1needing boost. The reason I want to run the 340 is I currently run mid 11s on motor and wish to spray a 200 to 250 shot and the last thing I want to do is lean the motor out. It sound like it might be cheaper and easer to sump the tank and run an a 1000 would you agree?

Racetronix

iTrader: (2)

It would be less expensive and more reliable with a dual in-tank system from Lonnie's Performance!

You should consider a stand-alone fuel solution for the N2O from Nitro Dave's as another option. This way you could stick with a standard FLT1 255 pump system.

Racetronix

iTrader: (2)

Just some notes here...

Teflon is the only type of wire, which can resist gas and all its additives without breaking down. Teflon is very hard if not impossible to seal with glue or silicone b/c pretty much NOTHING will stick to it. Using standard cross-linked (SXL, GXL, TXL) automotive or PVC wire will break down and allow the gas to be WICKED-UP allowing it to exit the tank in the form of vapors. This is why a sealed, impregnated and pressure tested bulkhead connector is used to prevent this. Standard PVC or Polyolefin heatshrink will dissolve in gas. Only Teflon heatshink can be used in gas. Nylon butt connectors are an inexpensive and readily available alternative. A Walbro 255LPH pump can typically support 550RWHP FI and 600RWHP NA at FLT1 pressures. 14 or 12 gauge wire is more than adequate for the current draw of an AM340 pump.

If you wish to DIY your AM340 pump installation you may consider this:
http://www.racetronix.biz/itemdesc.a...WS-001&eq=&Tp=


http://www.racetronix.biz/itemdesc.asp?ic=RCS-001&Tp=

lt1needingboost

iTrader: (8)

I was just waiting for someone to jump on this and yes i understand abt teflon coated heatshrink, and yes racetronix for his numbers go w lonnies. I bought both my pumps for 175 bucks and did the bulkhead myself w actual explosion proof electrical bulkhead which considering the stock bulkhead and the bulkhead for the maf i thot i was using i way better material then came from the factory , Please starbucks do not take what i say as the end all be all of what to do, its what i did and racetronix i understand that for liability issues u have to use components that are bulletproof its totally understandable my only point was A. its alot btr then what gm used and B. its alot btr than reusing the factory wiring , listen before this gets in to a big thing way off topic i told him to use ur products, i also am a huge fan of lonnies work look earlier in the thread im simply trying to tell him how if he is determined to use the pump how i did mine, I am not a fuel component genius i just do a lil work to my own car and IMO i was using btr components then the stock bulkhead that i started with, so in closing starbuck please for what u want to do call lonnie he knows his sh.t. I m just a guy that works on his car i dont want to be held liable if u get hurt. clearly the guy at racetronix have done there homework that diy bulk head looks great buy it...............kt

lt1needingboost

iTrader: (8)

and a side note crimp on butt connectors ..............really ....................Never.

Racetronix

iTrader: (2)

There is nothing wrong with quality Nylon butt connectors as long as they are crimped PROPERLY!
Crimping can create a gas-tight seal without introducing tin and lead to a connection as soldering does.
Most automotive terminals are crimped although it is done with a press and applicator.
When a joint is required in one of our harnesses, we ultrasonically weld them together using an Amtech Ultrasplice machine. No more soldering which introduces resistance and is not ROHS compliant.

lt1needingboost

iTrader: (8)

Out of all that paragraph my side note u pick on................ I know what your saying but i have fixed so many problems because of poorly done crimp connectors.

Racetronix

iTrader: (2)

It is unfortunate that you assume we are picking on you or anybody else for that matter. We are trying to educate people here so they can make technically informed decisions based on solid technical facts.

lt1needingboost

iTrader: (8)

Not what i meant by picked on but, i understand and appriciate any assistance or opinions if i wldve known there was pre made bulkheads available i probably wldve used it .........might even yet.