Well i got it.
I would lean with 96capricemgr on this, also the gas needs changed. Gas begins to break down in ~90 days and 6+ month old fuel is not a good thing.
Going to replace the fuel filter and fuel and see what that yields.
New plugs and check the old ones for signs
Check wires / new wires
Double check firing order and wire routing
Check fuel pressure new filter is good
Everyone likes to blame opti but first try the basics usually it's something simple
This spring I thought my car was screwed after sitting and the above fixed it.
Good luck!
Check wires / new wires
Double check firing order and wire routing
Check fuel pressure new filter is good
Everyone likes to blame opti but first try the basics usually it's something simple
This spring I thought my car was screwed after sitting and the above fixed it.
Good luck!
Replaced fuel filter fired right up 
Hoping any of the old crappy fuel burns off quickly. Might just dump all the fuel that's in there anyway it didn't fire up as smooth the second time. Didn't pull any timing according to the scanmaster either this time.
Need to get tires for it and register it still
I'm probably going to get solomon to datalog it since the guys at madz stopped replying to my emails trying to confirm the tune on the car...
Hoping any of the old crappy fuel burns off quickly. Might just dump all the fuel that's in there anyway it didn't fire up as smooth the second time. Didn't pull any timing according to the scanmaster either this time. Need to get tires for it and register it still
I'm probably going to get solomon to datalog it since the guys at madz stopped replying to my emails trying to confirm the tune on the car... Last edited by 02v8ta; Jan 3, 2013 at 04:37 PM.
So simplest way of draining the gas. Can I disconnect the fuel filter and turn the key? Will I have to keep doing this/ how much will that drain ? I've only ever siphoned a tank before real redneck style don't wanna do that again.
You might pull the vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator and cycle the key before badger your tuning guy. See fuel from the vacuum hose? Regulator diaphragms can leak, pumping fuel into the manifold.
Also, verify the intake air and coolant temps. Unplugged or open circuits show the PCM -40 deg F. Makes for very rich. Hard to mis-tune one bad enough to put fuel in the oil. Not likely your problem.
Autolite 106 or 104 plugs. Nothing that says NGK.
Never put a high volume oil pump in any SBC. Valve covers full of oil is not what your after. I have had many highly modified SBCs the past 50+ years I have raced. Not seen a single one that needed one. Circle track and drags. Like after market MAFs, if you make and market about anything somebody will buy it. I have yet found a purpose for a high volume in any V8 Chevy.
Also, verify the intake air and coolant temps. Unplugged or open circuits show the PCM -40 deg F. Makes for very rich. Hard to mis-tune one bad enough to put fuel in the oil. Not likely your problem.
Autolite 106 or 104 plugs. Nothing that says NGK.
Never put a high volume oil pump in any SBC. Valve covers full of oil is not what your after. I have had many highly modified SBCs the past 50+ years I have raced. Not seen a single one that needed one. Circle track and drags. Like after market MAFs, if you make and market about anything somebody will buy it. I have yet found a purpose for a high volume in any V8 Chevy.
Far as pumping out the fuel I know on the b-bodies there is a test lead on the passenger fender just a red wire to a black female spade connector. Applying power to this will run the fuel pump without cycling the key as you were talking about doing.
On Ed's comment about plugs I will say the TR55 that is far and away more recommended I found to be wrong for heads/cam setup, catr actually stalled a few times with the AC on. A swap to Autolite 104 fixed it but I would have been open to the idea of a NGK TR6 just couldn't find them locally as easily.
On Ed's comment about plugs I will say the TR55 that is far and away more recommended I found to be wrong for heads/cam setup, catr actually stalled a few times with the AC on. A swap to Autolite 104 fixed it but I would have been open to the idea of a NGK TR6 just couldn't find them locally as easily.
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Verdad Gallardo Well got most of the old/new fuel mix out. added 4 gallons of super reconnected the fuel filter and now it's acting like it did before i replaced the fuel filter. How long would crap gas ruin a new filter? It's only been several days. Hoping the battery is just drained, that's charging now. Something simple i'm over looking?
no it wouldn't. If you really think that is possible though I would be verifying pressure at the rail as the way a plugged filter would cause poor running would be low pressure and I would try and disconnect before the filter and run some into a container so you can look at the gas and see if you see any particulates.
Long as I am thinking about it water could be a concern too, when the pump is running it might mix it well enough to mask the presence but then letting it rest and settle out might make for a slug of it to hit the motor again on startup.
Long as I am thinking about it water could be a concern too, when the pump is running it might mix it well enough to mask the presence but then letting it rest and settle out might make for a slug of it to hit the motor again on startup.
Replaced the fuel filter again, battery is good. Still wont start up. It will if I have the gad pedal all the pressed but as soon as i try to let it idle on its own it'll die out.
Not sure what to do besides top off the tank drain it again and see what that yields?
Not sure what to do besides top off the tank drain it again and see what that yields?
The temp sender is a good thing to check but I might wonder about the IAC being stuck shut too. If light throttle keeps it alive the IAC would be possible, it it is hard to keep alive with pedal I would lean towards the temp sender more.
Had it happen once, car needed throttle to stay alive, swapped to a spare and the car idled high that one was froze open too far.
Had it happen once, car needed throttle to stay alive, swapped to a spare and the car idled high that one was froze open too far.
Not yet, wont have time or light to pull the vac hose now for a few days at least That vac hose is pretty small and plugs into the passenger side of the intake right? I should see no fuel when i cycle the key a few times?
Cycling the key only causes the pressure to build after i've had the fuel system hooked back up right? No way that'll dump to much fuel?
If my fuel regulator checks out should I clean the IAC next? The start up when i first replaced the fuel filter to not starting now confuses me. If the IAC was stuck shut i guess that could be a temperamental thing.
Previous owner said he replaced both temp sensors. I have a spare iat laying around and probably a temp sensor too. Just didn't want to take any coolant out that'll be the last thing i do.
That vac hose is pretty small and plugs into the passenger side of the intake right? I should see no fuel when i cycle the key a few times?Cycling the key only causes the pressure to build after i've had the fuel system hooked back up right? No way that'll dump to much fuel?
The temp sender is a good thing to check but I might wonder about the IAC being stuck shut too. If light throttle keeps it alive the IAC would be possible, it it is hard to keep alive with pedal I would lean towards the temp sender more.
Had it happen once, car needed throttle to stay alive, swapped to a spare and the car idled high that one was froze open too far.
Had it happen once, car needed throttle to stay alive, swapped to a spare and the car idled high that one was froze open too far.
Previous owner said he replaced both temp sensors. I have a spare iat laying around and probably a temp sensor too. Just didn't want to take any coolant out
that'll be the last thing i do. Fuel system connected, fuel in the tank, pull that small vacuum hose off the regulator: no fuel should come out of the regulator. If it does the diaphragm leaks and will cause what you are seeing.
Check your coolant temp reading the PCM "sees" with a scan tool
Check your intake air temp reading the PCM "sees" with a scan tool.
Having to hold the pedal on the floor puts the PCM into Clear Flood Mode ( shuts the injectors off) meaning it is getting WAY too much fuel for some reason. Don't put any more fuel filters on it! Clogged filter would cause a LACK of fuel. Not your problem if you have to hold it on the floor to start it.
If your spark plugs are black (I'm guessing they are) it will soon stop starting at all until cleaned or replaced whether you fis it or not.
Good luck!
Check your coolant temp reading the PCM "sees" with a scan tool
Check your intake air temp reading the PCM "sees" with a scan tool.
Having to hold the pedal on the floor puts the PCM into Clear Flood Mode ( shuts the injectors off) meaning it is getting WAY too much fuel for some reason. Don't put any more fuel filters on it! Clogged filter would cause a LACK of fuel. Not your problem if you have to hold it on the floor to start it.
If your spark plugs are black (I'm guessing they are) it will soon stop starting at all until cleaned or replaced whether you fis it or not.
Good luck!
Hoping the plugs will suffice to get it started again. Update: i pulled that vac hose and no fuel was present, got someone to turn the key and cycle it twice still no fuel. For the heck of it decided to see if it'd turn over. After about 2 seconds the car fired up and ran for 3-4 seconds on its own. before cutting out. It ran fine fore those first few seconds
