Check your temps yet? I prefer doing it after sitting for eight hours or so. Temps displayed should be same as ambient or very close. Skewed colder makes for rich conditions.

Good luck

 

looks like i'm finally ordering my aldl cable today. This sensor(s) would be the next logical thing causing the car to run to rich?

 

Ill post pictures when I can but the car has the scan master on it which I'm new at but it looks like both sensors in question are reading correct within a few degrees.

 

Have you checked fuel pressure? Scanmaster should be OK for temps. They are seldom exactly the same. Fuel return clogged causes high fuel pressure. MAP sensor not reading vacuum will cause very rich too. The plugs are black, right?

 

There's a JEGS fuel gauge under the hood thats reading right under 40 most of the time. I haven't pulled plugs yet.

 

I would pull one easy spark plug before I went out and bought anything.
Then we will know for sure we are not looking at the wrong area. Having to hold the pedal on the floor to start it is usually way too much fuel, but it's best to make sure. A black spark plug will tell us we are looking for the correct thing.

 

Hopefully I'll have some time tomorrow morning to pull one or two. I find it odd it started right up after sitting a night and again previously after changing the fuel filter. I guess I have multiple things going on
Thanks for the help.

 

Injectors leaking or stuck open? I need to replace the injectors in my car, after it sits for an hour or two, it won't fire sometimes without keeping the foot to the floor especially in the winter when it is not hot enough for the fuel to evaporate in the intake.

 

This first one I think is suppose to be the Air Temp Sensor? I don't know what AES is? If it's the ATS then this is within about 8 degrees.





Here's my IAC read out. This is right? I know it would have to allow air to get in to start up.




Here's the coolant temp? CLE is suppose to be CLT Anyway if it is the coolant reading 43 is about spot on.



Here's the LBL Left block lean, although I think it's at the Normal 128 reading because the battery gets disconnected alot.




Again I'm new to the scan master, hopefully pulling a plug tomorrow and seeing if they are causing my issue.

 

8 degrees on the IAT (or MAT) is not enough of a problem to cause it to run excessively rich, even it that is what is going on. Some cheap scan tools come up with some strange parameter names. Engine Coolant Temp (ECT as my Tech2 calls it) being off 8 degrees won't cause this big of a problem either. Seeing the BLM (Block Learn Multiplier, aka Long Term Fuel Trim ) with the engine running in closed loop will tell us more. The INT (Integrator, or Short Term Fuel Trim) is important too. Also needs to be warmed up and in closed loop.
If we can see the color of one spark plug it will be a big help.

 

Still around Ed?
All I smell is gas.

 

Well, very rich it is. Btw, the pics of Scan Master showing 128 BLMs doesn't mean anything, the tach shows zero, so the engine is not running? Has to be running and in closed loop for BLMs to mean much.

 

I have a new set of tr55 laying around or should I spend the $$$ for the proper set. Can I get away with a new tr5 set to see if it stays running.

 

I've had better luck with Autolite, but whatever you have there will start it just fine if everything else is OK.

 

Someone dumped the gas tank into your cylinders.

 

Those plug electrodes look tiny and the gap looks huge - but pictures can lie.

U need the DTC error codes. That scanmaster is giving u real time or capture data for whatever those abbreviations are - u need the scanmaster code book/instructions for those.

Sorry for the bad news but u still need a code reader to look at the PCM error codes - the PCM logs the error code history for u also.

cardo

 

Wow, i found the scanmaster LT1 instructions. Take a look at: http://www.fullthrottletech.com/atta...3&d=1135610183

So that AES is really AtS = Air Temp = 53 degrees (chilly that day).
And IAC = Idle Air Control = 153 which is high out of spec.
Next is CLt = Coolant Temp = 43 degrees (burr, cold).
Then your last pic is LbL = Block Learn left = 128 which is term ECM learning (whatever that means).

Pretty cool stuff and it was fun to find it. And that scanmaster has DTC error codes too - just press the MODE button.
Hope this helps ya,
cardo

 

Get the aldl cable and use damaster and log it
scanmaster is OK but kinda a toy compared to datamaster. Get a laptop and log it.

My rich problem that I chased forever turned out to be
one bad spark plug wire
one bad o2

Before that my plugs looked like yours and my oil smelled like fuel.

But plugs and 02. That was it. I thought all kinds of other things like programming, idle off, etc. etc. but it came down to leaking spark plug wires.

Good luck!

 

Me too
And make sure you have the correct reach for your heads
And not too cold

 

Update. I replaced 7/8 of the plugs.
Side note no way I will ever get the last plug free from the drivers side, 3rd plug back with pacesetter long tubes. Didn't have this issue with hookers.

Replaces the 02s with new acdelco and almost 4 hours later started her up. Thing runs great and is nasty sounding

I need to fix yet another coolant line now but damn am I happy. Need tires still. It's currently running 7 autolite 104s idk what to do about the last plug other than drop the header. Not doing that anytime soon.