lt1 top end
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Joined: Dec 2012
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From: Bridgeview,il
lt1 top end Hi everyone
I just got a 95 camaro z28 A4.I wanna do some mods:
-CC503 cam
-Scorpion perf. 1.6 RR , 3/8 self aligning
-Trick Flow springs (TFS-16918-16) ???
-CC magnum pushrods 5/16" , 7.200 "
-CC steal retainers (7 degree) along with locks
-52 mm TB
-CAI
-Long tubes,no cat,? on muffler
-Port and polish intake and heads
Just wanna make sure all these parts will work together.Also really like an idea of making sts turbo for this car my self.I know that i gotta do the transmittion and rear end first.The question is, will this setup be good for low boost (5lbs) turbo?
Thx,Peter
I just got a 95 camaro z28 A4.I wanna do some mods:
-CC503 cam
-Scorpion perf. 1.6 RR , 3/8 self aligning
-Trick Flow springs (TFS-16918-16) ???
-CC magnum pushrods 5/16" , 7.200 "
-CC steal retainers (7 degree) along with locks
-52 mm TB
-CAI
-Long tubes,no cat,? on muffler
-Port and polish intake and heads
Just wanna make sure all these parts will work together.Also really like an idea of making sts turbo for this car my self.I know that i gotta do the transmittion and rear end first.The question is, will this setup be good for low boost (5lbs) turbo?
Thx,Peter
Last edited by piotrekusa; Dec 9, 2012 at 09:34 PM.
I would jump right to 7/16" studs guideplates and rockers so you have all you need for about any hydraulic cam setup.
Pushrods should be measured for.
For a 52mm TB I would ONLY do a rebored stocker, if you are going to the hassles of making an aftermarket work right just do the 58mm, no downside to the extra size.
"port and polish" can mean anything from a local shop ruining a pair of castings to someone who knows what they are doing making them better than most aftermarket stuff or anything in between. CHOOSE CAREFULLY HERE!
You will need a stall, really should do gears and some suspension work, maybe a fuel pump and probably need some 30lbs injectors.
You are heading into this backwards, you have a lot to do before a car is ready for heads/cam.
Pushrods should be measured for.
For a 52mm TB I would ONLY do a rebored stocker, if you are going to the hassles of making an aftermarket work right just do the 58mm, no downside to the extra size.
"port and polish" can mean anything from a local shop ruining a pair of castings to someone who knows what they are doing making them better than most aftermarket stuff or anything in between. CHOOSE CAREFULLY HERE!
You will need a stall, really should do gears and some suspension work, maybe a fuel pump and probably need some 30lbs injectors.
You are heading into this backwards, you have a lot to do before a car is ready for heads/cam.
You need to decide on the turbo or not before you decide on head work, cam and exhaust.
If you are going to do a turbo I would not bother with headers and I would choose a different cam. Depending on what gears you have a turbo might be OK with stock gears.
If you are going to do a turbo I would not bother with headers and I would choose a different cam. Depending on what gears you have a turbo might be OK with stock gears.
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Longtubes, even coated will just shed heat letting the exhaust gasses condense, really not a good thing when you are trying to get that exhaust gas volume to turn the turbo.
Like I said though an otherwise stock car needs a lot of other mods before heads and cam become reasonable next steps.
Like I said though an otherwise stock car needs a lot of other mods before heads and cam become reasonable next steps.
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I suggest read read read. Try not to jump in to fast and skip other things or you're going to be disappointed with results. I recommend starting with boltons. A stall and gears and tires I feel are probably your biggest bang for the buck as far as getting off the line. Just my 2 cents
Then put off all the engine plans till at least spring. If you don't understand how a stall is critical to make what you propose work then you are just going to do things wrong and create frustration for yourself.
Trust me I did a mild cam before the rest of the boltons, and I am telling you I screwed up. The cam I did was much milder even and it didn't really help the car till I put a good torque converter in.
A good converter will make more of a difference in the car's performance than all of those mods you mentioned in your first post combined.
I'm not saying don't do them, but if they're worth X without the converter, they'll be worth 3X with it. The only things I'd do before the converter is exhaust and gears.
To elaborate more I modded my car backwards I did a cam before headers/stall or gears. Gained little to nothing at the track, now "normal" gains from a performance converter on a mild bolton car are at least .4, when I gave mine a stall it gained closer to .8, a swap from 2.93 to just 3.42 was another .2 and then the headers were like .7.
Now keep in mind I have a Caprice, the 208/221 .474/.510 cam I had was mild drove perfectly with the stock stall and gears but like that went a single best of 14.9 (cam/catback/tune modified stock intake tract) the mild 2800 stall dropped it to 14.1, the gears 13.9ish and then headers 13.2 I did put some slicks on in that time too but at 14.9 traction was not any sort of issue.
You are going with a much larger cam that would "need" the stall increase even more, you should be going with 3.73 gears or even 4.10s and at least a 3200stall. Stock stall, stock gears I would expect the car to slowdown badly to 330ft mark, little quicker at high rpm but being slower down low will hurt more than you gain up high.
Now keep in mind I have a Caprice, the 208/221 .474/.510 cam I had was mild drove perfectly with the stock stall and gears but like that went a single best of 14.9 (cam/catback/tune modified stock intake tract) the mild 2800 stall dropped it to 14.1, the gears 13.9ish and then headers 13.2 I did put some slicks on in that time too but at 14.9 traction was not any sort of issue.
You are going with a much larger cam that would "need" the stall increase even more, you should be going with 3.73 gears or even 4.10s and at least a 3200stall. Stock stall, stock gears I would expect the car to slowdown badly to 330ft mark, little quicker at high rpm but being slower down low will hurt more than you gain up high.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: Bridgeview,il
Good info,that's what I like.i know I will learn a lot on this forum.
Now I know I need a stall and gears which I'm gonna get before the engines done.could somone still explain what diffrents ill feel driving the car with diffrent than original stall?
Now I know I need a stall and gears which I'm gonna get before the engines done.could somone still explain what diffrents ill feel driving the car with diffrent than original stall?