splayed caps
Depends on what your doing with it. The factory 2 bolt (assuming it's out of an f body) is plenty strong for 500hp...
That being said, a splayed 4 bolt conversion will be stronger in every way than a factory 4 bolt setup.
That being said, a splayed 4 bolt conversion will be stronger in every way than a factory 4 bolt setup.
The straight or splayed is grossly over-benchraced with little evidence from either side. For everyone who makes an argument one is better there is someone else's shop looking at the block architecture and arguing for the other. Straight or splayed I would ask your machinist what he prefers and go with that because if there are problems you need him to be happy with the build or he will blame any problems on something you asked for and he would have like d to do differntly.
If you are asking the question you probably wont ever be at a point where a slight advantage to one or the other would matter. Then by the time you are at the point where it might matter blocks become a wear item, seriously the big dogs endup having to swap them periodically because the bores are moving or the deck cracks from a headbolt hole to the bore etc.
On the HP number where 4-bolts make sense, we have see 500rwhp survive on 2-bolt just fine with good machining and studs, but on an $8000 build why not put in a little extra overkill incase down the road you decide to spray on top of the ordinary 400rwhp NA stroker build.
I know that is a bit rambling but read it though and I think you will get where I am coming from.
Understand too that mods like this introduce other little hassles that need attention, like splayed caps endup right in the path of the dipstick tube, not a deal breaker or anything just another thing that needs attention.
If you are asking the question you probably wont ever be at a point where a slight advantage to one or the other would matter. Then by the time you are at the point where it might matter blocks become a wear item, seriously the big dogs endup having to swap them periodically because the bores are moving or the deck cracks from a headbolt hole to the bore etc.
On the HP number where 4-bolts make sense, we have see 500rwhp survive on 2-bolt just fine with good machining and studs, but on an $8000 build why not put in a little extra overkill incase down the road you decide to spray on top of the ordinary 400rwhp NA stroker build.
I know that is a bit rambling but read it though and I think you will get where I am coming from.
Understand too that mods like this introduce other little hassles that need attention, like splayed caps endup right in the path of the dipstick tube, not a deal breaker or anything just another thing that needs attention.
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2010
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I think the 500 hp figure is a fairly good line in the sand. I have two engines that make a little over that and both show main cap walk. That is not the primary reason that I am converting motors to a Bowtie block. The primary reason is I run very thin rings and I need an uber straight/thick cylinder wall.
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Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 82
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From: Massachusetts
Forged bottom end 12.2 to 1 compression 383, .243 .251-.597 .603 cam. 21* trick flows ported by Lloyd, ported intake, and supporting bolt ons. Will be 24x conversion and eventually hit with a 150-200 shot. I would have gone with a factory four bolt but I had already spent 1000 dollars worth of machining on the block that I inquired about splaying. I'm hoping to put down between 450rwhp and 500rwhp I know its not realistic on the higher end but who knows. Dyno numbers don't mean as much to me as track times or fun on the street. Thanks for your input guys! and the only reason I inquired about the 4 bolt is because I eventually want to spray it.
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Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 82
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From: Massachusetts
*Caprice, I definitely understand where your coming from, when I spoke to my machinest, hes said that he splays 2 bolts all the time so he said the work is not a problem, with that being said he also stated that it is probably overkill unless I plan on spraying it. But even then, he said it was still probably overkill but he understood why I wanted the extra insurance of not having failure with my engine.
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IMO factory 4-bolt blocks are not worth the additional premium price. If looking for a stout NA motor plus maybe a couple hundred worth of spray I would say you want to be looking at aftermarket caps anyway. If putting new caps on you need the line bore anyway which is a big part of the conversion so paying extra for a factory 4-bolt wont really save you a lot if anything.
I believe on Gen 1 motors some or all of the the 4-bolt blocks were different castings then the 2-bolt, on the LT1 they are the same casting as the 2-bolt.
I believe on Gen 1 motors some or all of the the 4-bolt blocks were different castings then the 2-bolt, on the LT1 they are the same casting as the 2-bolt.
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I found a deal on my 4bolt block, I spin it to 6900 since the cam dies past that. Made 585ish flywheel, never put it on a chassis dyno. If you can get it done for a reasonable price then go for it. Are you doing the front or back? What kind of crank do you have?
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 556
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From: Apopka FL
Forged bottom end 12.2 to 1 compression 383, .243 .251-.597 .603 cam. 21* trick flows ported by Lloyd, ported intake, and supporting bolt ons. Will be 24x conversion and eventually hit with a 150-200 shot. I would have gone with a factory four bolt but I had already spent 1000 dollars worth of machining on the block that I inquired about splaying. I'm hoping to put down between 450rwhp and 500rwhp I know its not realistic on the higher end but who knows. Dyno numbers don't mean as much to me as track times or fun on the street. Thanks for your input guys! and the only reason I inquired about the 4 bolt is because I eventually want to spray it.
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Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 82
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From: Massachusetts
.My block was bored. .030 over, decked with decking plates, line bored, blue printed and balanced. It has a 4340 eagle crank, 6 inch 4340 eagle rods, and forged mahle pistons 6cc valve relief with hellfire rings. Was actually an ss impala motor, my car is a 97z a4 but I picked up a t56 and all of the hardware for it. Tubular upper and lower a arms, tubular k frame tubular rear control arms, adjustbal torque arm with driveshaft loop, and subframe connectors. At the moment
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 556
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From: Apopka FL
.My block was bored. .030 over, decked with decking plates, line bored, blue printed and balanced. It has a 4340 eagle crank, 6 inch 4340 eagle rods, and forged mahle pistons 6cc valve relief with hellfire rings. Was actually an ss impala motor, my car is a 97z a4 but I picked up a t56 and all of the hardware for it. Tubular upper and lower a arms, tubular k frame tubular rear control arms, adjustbal torque arm with driveshaft loop, and subframe connectors. At the moment
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Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 82
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From: Massachusetts
Either way, I know I wont be able to shift fast enough to run sub tens or even tens especially not on the ten bolt. After the engines in ill put an s60 in it, if I were building an all out drag car I wouldn't be putting in a manual. With what will be done to it im sure it will be an animal on the street. Fastest car to this day was a 500ci stroked mopar. Kinda want to see if I can out perform it with a sbc. If I hit tens I hit tens if I don't I don't. Thanks for the input guys I appreciate it. I always thought it was worth it and this thread confirmed my opinion on it.
If you look around at what cars are doing NA or on the bottle I would have to agree that a aftermarket head stroker on a 150 shot should run 9s, if the driver still needs to gain experience and can't launch/row well enough I would still be looking for a MPH to show some power.