Weight reduction lb/hp
12-28-2012, 01:05 PM
#22
An 8" is great if you need a stall over 4200ish and don't care about lockup. For most of us with street/strip cars though a 9.5" somewhere between 3000-4000 stall with lockup is a more reasonable choice for when we are on the street.
A couple friends have 8"ATI in "street" cars one in a TH350(with a lot of fancy light internals) the other a TH400 Gear Vendor setup. I personally wouldn't be happy with either as a street car but everyone's tolerances are different. Those guys started playing with cars that had 3 speed trannies so they don't miss lockup and OD. I started with my current car so lockup and OD are what are normal to me and I would miss them.
A couple friends have 8"ATI in "street" cars one in a TH350(with a lot of fancy light internals) the other a TH400 Gear Vendor setup. I personally wouldn't be happy with either as a street car but everyone's tolerances are different. Those guys started playing with cars that had 3 speed trannies so they don't miss lockup and OD. I started with my current car so lockup and OD are what are normal to me and I would miss them.
12-28-2012, 01:29 PM
#23
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Now were you planning on spraying that 200 or so shot on this same 8"converter? Charlie at ATI said I would have to run there 9"fuel and blown if I wanted to run any amount of spray! Our combos are pretty similar that's why I ask.
12-28-2012, 07:40 PM
#26
I listen to people that actually run the items that I use versus the companies that sell it.
12-28-2012, 09:56 PM
#28
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To be honest I don't really listen to what companies suggest that often, that car that Fex77k is talking about is only 2100 lbs so is isn't really comparable to your car weight. Also I've seen 8" converters behind BBC combos that were using 25% Nitro 75% Alcohol and using nitrous on the line.
I listen to people that actually run the items that I use versus the companies that sell it.
I listen to people that actually run the items that I use versus the companies that sell it.
12-31-2012, 07:45 AM
#30
ati also told me that it was OK to neutral my th350 after i cross the stripe..........safe to say you cant it will cause the drum to spin about 25000rpm in my car and will create a grenade..........was concerning to hear that false safety from them, if i hadn't known what would happen and did it we couldve had a very interesting set of pictures to look at
12-31-2012, 10:21 AM
#31
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ati also told me that it was OK to neutral my th350 after i cross the stripe..........safe to say you cant it will cause the drum to spin about 25000rpm in my car and will create a grenade..........was concerning to hear that false safety from them, if i hadn't known what would happen and did it we couldve had a very interesting set of pictures to look at
12-31-2012, 11:51 AM
#32
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ati also told me that it was OK to neutral my th350 after i cross the stripe..........safe to say you cant it will cause the drum to spin about 25000rpm in my car and will create a grenade..........was concerning to hear that false safety from them, if i hadn't known what would happen and did it we couldve had a very interesting set of pictures to look at
in the trans is setup with a clean neutral you can do it. but the safest is let it gear down in high till you hit the turn out.
12-31-2012, 03:04 PM
#34
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01-04-2013, 06:21 PM
#35
ati also told me that it was OK to neutral my th350 after i cross the stripe..........safe to say you cant it will cause the drum to spin about 25000rpm in my car and will create a grenade..........was concerning to hear that false safety from them, if i hadn't known what would happen and did it we couldve had a very interesting set of pictures to look at
01-09-2013, 09:04 AM
#37
As pointed out, 100 lbs is worth a tenth only for slower cars. Like usually 13 second or slower.
Clean neutral is the way to go, especially if your over 7000 at the finish line. Rossler, Coan and Pro Trans all make clean neutral T350s, probably others. Btw, the shifter in that pic is the best there is, but the one for a clean neutral Trans has another "N" past the "3" position.
I tried an A1 converter, cost me over a tenth. Marv Ripes sold it several years ago and has now retired. They bought it back, as they told me they would. Good guys.
Have not tested a Coan. Good friend here locally, that I travel & pit with, has two fast SS cars. (1 for each son that drives them) who always used ATI had Coan build one of their light weight T350s for one car. Tried one of their converters too. Took three tweaks to make it as fast as their ATIs. Did work with them until they got it thought. Good guys also.
I have told this before: If Charlie Plott at ATI told me a **** ant could pull a freight train I would start figuring out how to hook that little sucker up.
I noticed the majority of NHRA SS cars had ATI converters, figured I could not go too wrong with them. Glad I did.
Clean neutral is the way to go, especially if your over 7000 at the finish line. Rossler, Coan and Pro Trans all make clean neutral T350s, probably others. Btw, the shifter in that pic is the best there is, but the one for a clean neutral Trans has another "N" past the "3" position.
I tried an A1 converter, cost me over a tenth. Marv Ripes sold it several years ago and has now retired. They bought it back, as they told me they would. Good guys.
Have not tested a Coan. Good friend here locally, that I travel & pit with, has two fast SS cars. (1 for each son that drives them) who always used ATI had Coan build one of their light weight T350s for one car. Tried one of their converters too. Took three tweaks to make it as fast as their ATIs. Did work with them until they got it thought. Good guys also.
I have told this before: If Charlie Plott at ATI told me a **** ant could pull a freight train I would start figuring out how to hook that little sucker up.
I noticed the majority of NHRA SS cars had ATI converters, figured I could not go too wrong with them. Glad I did.
01-09-2013, 09:18 AM
#38
As pointed out, 100 lbs is worth a tenth only for slower cars. Like usually 13 second or slower.
Clean neutral is the way to go, especially if your over 7000 at the finish line. Rossler, Coan and Pro Trans all make clean neutral T350s, probably others. Btw, the shifter in that pic is the best there is, but the one for a clean neutral Trans has another "N" past the "3" position.
I tried an A1 converter, cost me over a tenth. Marv Ripes sold it several years ago and has now retired. They bought it back, as they told me they would. Good guys.
Have not tested a Coan. Good friend here locally, that I travel & pit with, has two fast SS cars. (1 for each son that drives them) who always used ATI had Coan build one of their light weight T350s for one car. Tried one of their converters too. Took three tweaks to make it as fast as their ATIs. Did work with them until they got it thought. Good guys also.
I have told this before: If Charlie Plott at ATI told me a **** ant could pull a freight train I would start figuring out how to hook that little sucker up.
I noticed the majority of NHRA SS cars had ATI converters, figured I could not go too wrong with them. Glad I did.
Clean neutral is the way to go, especially if your over 7000 at the finish line. Rossler, Coan and Pro Trans all make clean neutral T350s, probably others. Btw, the shifter in that pic is the best there is, but the one for a clean neutral Trans has another "N" past the "3" position.
I tried an A1 converter, cost me over a tenth. Marv Ripes sold it several years ago and has now retired. They bought it back, as they told me they would. Good guys.
Have not tested a Coan. Good friend here locally, that I travel & pit with, has two fast SS cars. (1 for each son that drives them) who always used ATI had Coan build one of their light weight T350s for one car. Tried one of their converters too. Took three tweaks to make it as fast as their ATIs. Did work with them until they got it thought. Good guys also.
I have told this before: If Charlie Plott at ATI told me a **** ant could pull a freight train I would start figuring out how to hook that little sucker up.
I noticed the majority of NHRA SS cars had ATI converters, figured I could not go too wrong with them. Glad I did.
01-09-2013, 12:37 PM
#40
Even though the ATI in my car was a hand-me-down and not purposely built for it, I tried two others of another brand that WERE built specifically for it and failed to better its performance.