FAD2BLK93

The LQ swap will be considerably more than the LE setup. But in my case it was well worth it. Simple bolt ons and a mild cam and now putting 400 to the ground. Getting 450-470 is pretty common place with H/C/I on a LS/LQ.

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

With AI's 226/232 cam and thinner 0.026 head gaskets, you will put down 365-375 rwhp and walk bolton only LS cars allllllll dayyyyyyy loooonnnggg. You seriously do NOT need a "stroker" to beat a bolton only, or even a cam only, LS1.

Heads/cam LT > cam only LS > cam only LT > bolton LS > bolton LT> stock LS > Stock LT

minrider

yeah i know I don't NEED the stroker but i figure if i'm rebuilding the bottom end anyway i might as well get the extra cubes while i'm at it and most of the kits i've been seeing are using good name parts and i've done a 383 ebay only build before and it's still running strong (4yrs) i have no idea on hp cause i've never had it dyno'd but the quality of parts is definitely not a worry at this point. I know it'll be over my original 3k but i think i'll slide by for 4 or less if i search for some deals on used headers and other bolt ons. or if i can score a healthy stock bottom end i'll skip the stroke all together and just go h/c bolt ons.

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

You are freaking DREAMING if you think you can build a decent stroker for $4000. You would easily burn through that $4000 before you even get to the bottom end, considering heads/cam is $2000, headers $400, tune $400, injectors $300, clutch or stall $600, rockers $250, pushrods $100, lifters $100, timing chain $100, gaskets $200, etc etc will be more than the other $2000.

Here is a basic bottom end rebuild, and even this costed $2300.

http://www.ellweinengines.com/Ellwei...Kit/355Kit.htm

And dont forget about suspension and your rear end, that will easily eat up another $2000 and NO you cannot skip it.

The 383 you built probably has a cast crank, which is weaker than the stock crank. Your best bet is to refresh your stock bottom end with all stock parts and ARP hardware, then do a used heads/cam kit, or the LE1 kit for only $1200. Should get near 400rwhp, and if you shop around well enough, you MIGHT be able to come in under $4000 for the engine, but then you still need to pay some attention to the rear and suspension.

minrider

ok......so I still have many different routes running through my head and for some reason the 5.3 swap is looking interesting. Forget what i said about a budget cause that was simply a goal to try to meet but not necessary (doesn't mean i wanna put 10grand into it though) I found a long block 5.3 for 300 bucks and wondering exactly whats needed to COMPLETE the swap. also do any fbody lt's fit the 5.3 since it's based on the ls or do i need to swap heads or??? all I am really concerned with working is the speedo on my original cluster everything else i plan to use aftermarket gauges for anyway....oh and fuel gauge too. is this swap doable at a basic level for 2 grand or so?, cause if it is i'd like to look into it further. i'm still looking for info on it but haven't seen anything consistent

purpleflamzz

Any well built 396 stroker is gonna have well over $10k in it.
Im into my Motor/drive train a good 25K and still need more.

minrider

I know this thread is well forgotten by now but I did my homework and am gonna prove my point on all this excessive cost for a stroker build. First off that's state what's required to build a 396 lt1 stroker.
1. 3.875 crank stroke------640.00 (forged scat)
2. Rods 5.7-6.0 etc...-----431.95 (Summit racing 6" eagle hbeams)
3. .030 overbore.....-------140.00 (Local good named machine shop)
4. .030 over pistons....-----493.00(summit racing Probe forged pistons)

Grand total......1704.95!!!
Yeah you have to figure in gaskets and rings and bearings yet but don't you gotta figure that into ANY motor build???
Now lets throw on a LE3 h/c set up for 1900.00 for a new grand total of 3604.95!!! Wow amazing!. Now we can throw some cheap ole EBAY lt pacesetters on there and still be under 4 grand.......Were on earth are you guys spending the other 6 grand???

So for anyone looking to do a budget build stroker motor it CAN be done relatively easy!...supporting mods such as stall, suspension, intake etc....can all come in time but I personally file that under an Entire car build! forget the cost of gaskets and bearings and small parts when considering a build cause your gonna pay that price no matter what your doing when rebuilding.

When i see these posts on 10 15 20 grand for a stroker build it makes me laugh.. sure you can spend that much but the majority of that money is being spent on other supporting mods, which could be spent on any motor setup regaurdless of cu.in. or stroke. Heads and cam doesn't make it a stroker build....clutch or converter doesn't make it a stroker build....intake and headers doesn't make it a stroker build.
Cracks me up when people down talk ebay parts too,,,, most of those parts come from the same manufacturers just with out the store front and over head to support therefore being less expensive.

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

If you think you can itemize all the items on a build and come in at budget then go right ahead.

It also cracks me up that you think you can come in and educate us - coming from the guy who hasn't even built a motor.

I wonder if you realize how stupid you made yourself look.

Puck

iTrader: (17)

minrider

I'm not trying to educate anyone, I just asked you on another thread about clevitte bearings on h/c/i/headers and you proved my point. Clevitte bearings are everywhere on ebay with their stroker kits and such, you stated you've been working with these motors for 10 years or so, so obviously you know your stuff when it comes to lt's, so nothing but respect for you, my point was you don't have to spend 10 grand in order to build a stroker motor and yes I have built motors, only 4 to be exact but i've done turbo motors na motors and a 383 stroker motor, none of which came in even close to what people claim it costs to build a decent motor. My 383 is still running strong and is very healthy, never dynoed but never the less it puts down cars that have 3 times as much money into them and it was ALL done ebay style. This will be my first lt motor build and looking stupid or not I think i made my point. Please don't mis understand my last post as stupidity or errogance, but when someone tells me i'm crazy if I think i can do a stroker build for less than 10 grand it gets frusterating especially when i've done one already for half that. I don't claim to be a pro engine builder by any means but i've done enough to know that just cause you spend more doesn't make it better.

F0x Slaughter

Rear End: at least 2000 for a 9in 12 bolt, S60.

Transmission: Don't know if you have an A4 or a M6. M6 is rated to 450ft lbs. Will need to be rebuilt. That will cost around 1000 depending on what you rebuild it to. Clutch/Torque Converter will be around 600.

Top End: Least 2000 on heads. (Putting cheap heads on here will be pointless to try and feed a 396) So expect least 2500.
Cam, lifters, pushrods, rockers, guide plates expect to be around another 1000.
Gasket kit around 100 - 150.


So far we are at ~7450 and we haven't touched the bottom end.

Fuel System: Injectors will be around 300, if you run an intank fuel pump like a racetronix thats another 200.

~7950.

Block Work: ~1000 bucks to have it bored, clearance for a 3.875" crank, new cam bearings ect, even more if you plan on converting it to a 4 bolt.

~8950.

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

This guy doesn't seem to think any of that stuff counts as necessary.

F0x Slaughter

Well your problem is that crankshaft adds rotating mass so just throw a cheap one in there.

The 10 bolt if you put a girdle on it is good to 1000hp.

Heads psh why buy expensive heads just have the heads home ported in an alley, they will feed a 396.

Injectors overrated. If you bump up the fuel pressure to like 120psi those 24lbs will flow more than you need.

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

I dont mean to come off like a dick, but I cant figure out how to word it any other way. I cant believe you actually think that the only bottom end machine shop work that you will need is a 0.030 overbore. And a bottom end does not JUST consist of crank, rods, and pistons.

minrider

Wow you guys have taken this the complete wrong direction. Home ported in an alley??? really?? really ain't much point in going any further if you guys can even see the difference between building a MOTOR and building a car. You got it all figured out, there's no way to build a MOTOR for less than 10 grand! you have enlightened me!

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

oh dear...

MEAN LT1

iTrader: (2)

There not being mean, but you cant have thin skin around here. Take what there saying and apply it. Disregard the sarcasm b/c there always going to be some around here.

F0x Slaughter

I wasn't being sarcastic a girdle on a 10 bolt is good for 1000hp =)

If we want to get Technical. Motors are electric and engines are internal combustion.

minrider

bahahahaha to-shey! I'm not trying to take it meanly or rude, and I completely understand the need for all of the supporting upgrades, my only point of the whole matter was that those can be done seperately...buf, no dicktitude taken and i understand what your talking about from machining....decking line hone cam bearings balancing etc etc. i'm just trying point out that if I do a 355 rebuild i'm gonna pay the same for machine work. The machine shop is gonna charge me more to line hone my crank journals just because i'm putting in a longer stroke crank. as far as clearencing goes i've done my own on my 383 to save money. this was not intended to turn into an argument but it seems to have turned into the difference between a full built car and a engine build

1320Chicken

iTrader: (4)

I was doing a lt years ago and had the same mindset. I was Nickle and dimed to death because I didn't figure fuel system, tuning (something that was solved in your 383 build with a bigger carb and a flat head screwdriver) and just the general extra expense of lt/Ls parts.

all said and done i had 5k in a forged 355 shortblock built for boost.