Are These Good Numbers For The Mods?
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 17
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Are These Good Numbers For The Mods? Hello Everyone I was just curious about my Heads and cam build I'm currently running the trick flow 195 heads no CNC porting with CC XFI 280 cam duration (230/236) (576/570) lift on 1.6 Rockers but i have the 1.5 ratio crane gold roller rockers hooker long tubes with kooks true dual exhaust no cats, 3.73 gears on the stock 10 bolt with the TA cover (hasn't treated me wrong yet lol) also 58mm throttle body on it. All the bolt-on's possible (electric water pump, under drive pulley kit, etc, etc) and I had it dyno tuned at tick performance and my final two runs were 355rwhp 364rwtq, and 351rwhp 381rwtq. I was hoping on my power side to be higher but It makes sense with just aftermarket casting heads and no port work has been done to them I just wanted some feed back to see where i stand at or should I be making more with what I'm currently running? Thank you for your time.
Well its the #s are a little on the light side but a cpl of questions what springs are u running?Im gonna assume ur running 36#injectors.?! do u have a stall if so what?and im hoping somebody actually tuned it after these mods thus the dyno time, and when u say all the other bolt ons and then u say ewp and under drive pulley, what else ? the ewp probably is getting u a couple rwhp, the pulley not so much.
Hello Everyone I was just curious about my Heads and cam build I'm currently running the trick flow 195 heads no CNC porting with CC XFI 280 cam duration (230/236) (576/570) lift on 1.6 Rockers but i have the 1.5 ratio crane gold roller rockers hooker long tubes with kooks true dual exhaust no cats, 3.73 gears on the stock 10 bolt with the TA cover (hasn't treated me wrong yet lol) also 58mm throttle body on it. All the bolt-on's possible (electric water pump, under drive pulley kit, etc, etc) and I had it dyno tuned at tick performance and my final two runs were 355rwhp 364rwtq, and 351rwhp 381rwtq. I was hoping on my power side to be higher but It makes sense with just aftermarket casting heads and no port work has been done to them I just wanted some feed back to see where i stand at or should I be making more with what I'm currently running? Thank you for your time.
Those numbers are usually easily achieved by a full cam-only build (no headwork). And those Trick Flow heads use larger combustion chambers which have LOWERED your compression which is no doubt hurting your numbers as well.
Personally I'd consider starting over if you're looking for more because with those heads as-cast I don't think you're going to get much more out of it.
Of course it goes without saying that dyno numbers are just numbers and the real performance is told at the track. Having said that your part selection doesn't give me any indication the track numbers will be stellar.
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i may be wrong on this but if i were in ur shoes, i run the same heads except theyre AIs. Now i think u might be able to to call them and send them out for them to port and grab a btr matched cam at the same time. Youre probably looking at gaining 80 to a 100rwhp by doing this, but call them theyre awesome to deal w and most importantly u might be able to make something out of what u have.............just a thought even if u have to throw another grand at this id spend 1ooo dollars on 100rwhp anyday of the week and twice on sundays.its worth a phone call.
I believe AI buys the Trickflows as bare casting and their programs are designed to work from there not from assembled castings believe he has commented on it publicly here before.
What rpm is it peaking at?
The 1.5s might soften those lobes enough to get by with the springs included on those heads.
The intake was opened up for the bigger TB right?
The "catalog build" the 3.73s, 42lbs injectors all tell us you have to start doing research before buying.
3.73s in a cammed M6 car is another bad decision, you have 2 overdrives one of them being .50 which means 4.10s are a much better choice.
If there was anything obvious like the power falling off too soon due to float or something I believe Tick would have seen it and told you. Looks to me like a lot of poor decisions with a poor result to match. I sincerely hope you find a few HP in some tweaks, maybe a plug change or getting a reasonably sized injector in there, a 30lbs would have been overkill for this build.
Learn the lesson, the car might have been in the 300rwhp range before the heads and cam you gained 50ish rwhp for the same money you could have done a ported stock heads package and gotten 100+rwhp doubling the HP return for about the same price.
We ALL screwup how you handling it plays a HUGE part in how successful you will be from here on.
What rpm is it peaking at?
The 1.5s might soften those lobes enough to get by with the springs included on those heads.
The intake was opened up for the bigger TB right?
The "catalog build" the 3.73s, 42lbs injectors all tell us you have to start doing research before buying.
3.73s in a cammed M6 car is another bad decision, you have 2 overdrives one of them being .50 which means 4.10s are a much better choice.
If there was anything obvious like the power falling off too soon due to float or something I believe Tick would have seen it and told you. Looks to me like a lot of poor decisions with a poor result to match. I sincerely hope you find a few HP in some tweaks, maybe a plug change or getting a reasonably sized injector in there, a 30lbs would have been overkill for this build.
Learn the lesson, the car might have been in the 300rwhp range before the heads and cam you gained 50ish rwhp for the same money you could have done a ported stock heads package and gotten 100+rwhp doubling the HP return for about the same price.
We ALL screwup how you handling it plays a HUGE part in how successful you will be from here on.
That cam should have higher HP than torque. I would drop the injectors down to 30s and sell the 42s, put on a 0.026 head gasket and see how high you can bump the compression, (try for between 12 and 13:1), and sell the 1.5s and put on the 1.6s, and possibly some dual springs to handle the increased lift. Those heads flow the same as LE1 heads, about 260 intake, and people have put down 400rwhp with smaller cams than what you are running, with those heads. You are about 50-60hp lower than you could be (or should be for the money you spent). I think with that, you could get closer to 380rwhp.
The XFI lobes have proved difficult to handle with just any old dual spring. They were designed in part to use the low mass of a beehive.
The reduced lift of the 1.5s isn't a big deal here sure he is probably missing a few HP but not the 50hp it is down from where it could have been with more thoughtfully chosen parts.
The reduced lift of the 1.5s isn't a big deal here sure he is probably missing a few HP but not the 50hp it is down from where it could have been with more thoughtfully chosen parts.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 17
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I really appreciate everyone's feedback I know I Made A Good amount of bad decisions for this build but I will fix it and not have that catalog build but like everything it will take time to decided between LE and AI but I'll talk to both and see which direction I will go but with ether direction I go with them they will put me right and not make the decisions like I made in the past but It wasn't too horrible for my first build, but it's all a learning process at the end of the day.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: Bahrain
i couldn't help not saying anything about you saying "58mm TB" ?? 58? you must mean 78? stock ls1 TB?
anyways i would change that if i were you i would go with FTP+FTRA 104mm TSP 100MAF 102 TB 102 Intake Fast... you'll defiantly see those numbers jump.
anyways i would change that if i were you i would go with FTP+FTRA 104mm TSP 100MAF 102 TB 102 Intake Fast... you'll defiantly see those numbers jump.