okay LT1 WTF
Some pumps come with cheap black hose to connect to the sender that is not rated to be submerged. Submerging it softens it and it splits. Not all black hose is bad but some of it is and has caused more than one guy troubles after they replace a pump.
How much compression did it have? A badly worn LT1 I would expect 180psi, most mechanics will freak out about that much and think 130-150 is good.
Far as the opti, a LOT of stupid people replace the whole thing when a cap and rotor simply wears out and they blindly say the "opti died", a cap and rotor are WEAR ITEMS that most folks don't change.
If you want to do a whole opti in order to replace the cap and rotor that is fine, but understand cap and rotor are tuneup items and them acting up after 100K miles is proof of a GOOD DESIGN as nobody ever expected any other cap and rotor to last that long, most are treated as periodic tuneup parts not left to fail on other engines.
How much compression did it have? A badly worn LT1 I would expect 180psi, most mechanics will freak out about that much and think 130-150 is good.
Far as the opti, a LOT of stupid people replace the whole thing when a cap and rotor simply wears out and they blindly say the "opti died", a cap and rotor are WEAR ITEMS that most folks don't change.
If you want to do a whole opti in order to replace the cap and rotor that is fine, but understand cap and rotor are tuneup items and them acting up after 100K miles is proof of a GOOD DESIGN as nobody ever expected any other cap and rotor to last that long, most are treated as periodic tuneup parts not left to fail on other engines.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,160
Likes: 30
From: New Port Richey, FL
Welcome to the LT1 world. Everyone immediately blames the optispark, and after they go through the trouble of replacing it (not a huge deal really), they hate the design even more because that wasn't the problem. And after they get the issue resolved, the optispark usually fails because they replaced it with an Oreilly's brand china unit, and have to replace it again.
Then, they sell the car and tell people how bad opti sparks/LT1 cars are, even though nothing was *usually* wrong with it in the first place. /rant
How did you replace the pump? Did you drop the entire tank or do the trap door mod?
Then, they sell the car and tell people how bad opti sparks/LT1 cars are, even though nothing was *usually* wrong with it in the first place. /rant
How did you replace the pump? Did you drop the entire tank or do the trap door mod?
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,160
Likes: 30
From: New Port Richey, FL
Some pumps come with cheap black hose to connect to the sender that is not rated to be submerged. Submerging it softens it and it splits. Not all black hose is bad but some of it is and has caused more than one guy troubles after they replace a pump.
How much compression did it have? A badly worn LT1 I would expect 180psi, most mechanics will freak out about that much and think 130-150 is good.
Far as the opti, a LOT of stupid people replace the whole thing when a cap and rotor simply wears out and they blindly say the "opti died", a cap and rotor are WEAR ITEMS that most folks don't change.
If you want to do a whole opti in order to replace the cap and rotor that is fine, but understand cap and rotor are tuneup items and them acting up after 100K miles is proof of a GOOD DESIGN as nobody ever expected any other cap and rotor to last that long, most are treated as periodic tuneup parts not left to fail on other engines.
How much compression did it have? A badly worn LT1 I would expect 180psi, most mechanics will freak out about that much and think 130-150 is good.
Far as the opti, a LOT of stupid people replace the whole thing when a cap and rotor simply wears out and they blindly say the "opti died", a cap and rotor are WEAR ITEMS that most folks don't change.
If you want to do a whole opti in order to replace the cap and rotor that is fine, but understand cap and rotor are tuneup items and them acting up after 100K miles is proof of a GOOD DESIGN as nobody ever expected any other cap and rotor to last that long, most are treated as periodic tuneup parts not left to fail on other engines.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,160
Likes: 30
From: New Port Richey, FL
I'm going bust out the multi meter and see if pump is getting power and check where it plugs into...
Dude, Go turn the key to the on position. Tell us if the fuel pump makes noise for a couple seconds or not. We cant help you if you ignore everything we tell you to check, and this is one of the easiest things to check.
If the pump makes no noise, Then hook power to the fuel pump test wire near the pcm(pictured below). If the pump still makes no noise, tell us. If you hear the fuel pump run leave the power hooked up and try to start the car. If the car starts up and runs, tell us.
it takes 5 seconds to turn the key on and listen for a pump, and 5 minutes to find a test wire, hook it up to the fuel pump test/prime wire under the hood and listen for the pump to run. It took you 6 minutes to post your last 3 replys.
Not trying to be an *******, its just numerous people have asked if you can hear the pump prime when you turn the key on.
Here is a picture of the wire...Feed 12v to it and you should hear the fuel pump run if it doesnt prime when the key is turned on.
If the pump makes no noise, Then hook power to the fuel pump test wire near the pcm(pictured below). If the pump still makes no noise, tell us. If you hear the fuel pump run leave the power hooked up and try to start the car. If the car starts up and runs, tell us.
it takes 5 seconds to turn the key on and listen for a pump, and 5 minutes to find a test wire, hook it up to the fuel pump test/prime wire under the hood and listen for the pump to run. It took you 6 minutes to post your last 3 replys.
Not trying to be an *******, its just numerous people have asked if you can hear the pump prime when you turn the key on.
Here is a picture of the wire...Feed 12v to it and you should hear the fuel pump run if it doesnt prime when the key is turned on.
Last edited by trilkb; Feb 10, 2013 at 09:49 AM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,160
Likes: 30
From: New Port Richey, FL
Dude, Go turn the key to the on position. Tell us if the fuel pump makes noise for a couple seconds or not. We cant help you if you ignore everything we tell you to check, and this is one of the easiest things to check.
If the pump makes no noise, Then hook power to the fuel pump test wire near the pcm(pictured below). If the pump still makes no noise, tell us. If you hear the fuel pump run leave the power hooked up and try to start the car. If the car starts up and runs, tell us.
it takes 5 seconds to turn the key on and listen for a pump, and 5 minutes to find a test wire, hook it up to the fuel pump test/prime wire under the hood and listen for the pump to run. It took you 6 minutes to post your last 3 replys.
Not trying to be an *******, its just numerous people have asked if you can hear the pump prime when you turn the key on.
Here is a picture of the wire...Feed 12v to it and you should hear the fuel pump run if it doesnt prime when the key is turned on.
If the pump makes no noise, Then hook power to the fuel pump test wire near the pcm(pictured below). If the pump still makes no noise, tell us. If you hear the fuel pump run leave the power hooked up and try to start the car. If the car starts up and runs, tell us.
it takes 5 seconds to turn the key on and listen for a pump, and 5 minutes to find a test wire, hook it up to the fuel pump test/prime wire under the hood and listen for the pump to run. It took you 6 minutes to post your last 3 replys.
Not trying to be an *******, its just numerous people have asked if you can hear the pump prime when you turn the key on.
Here is a picture of the wire...Feed 12v to it and you should hear the fuel pump run if it doesnt prime when the key is turned on.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,160
Likes: 30
From: New Port Richey, FL
power to the relay, has continuity from relay to the box where the pump pigtail plugs to, new relay, pump, filter... pump DOES NOT CLICK ON.... VATS??? ECM????
Also what is the loud humming noise under the hood when you turn ignition off???
AND I hear a clicking noise under dashboard every so often...
PS I do not have a keb fob.. so is the VATS kicking in? Car does not start for the few seconds and cuts out like VATS is suppose to.
Also what is the loud humming noise under the hood when you turn ignition off???
AND I hear a clicking noise under dashboard every so often...
PS I do not have a keb fob.. so is the VATS kicking in? Car does not start for the few seconds and cuts out like VATS is suppose to.
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