Clutch cable snapped or...?
Clutch cable snapped or...? I'll post this in the tranny forums too, but this is on my lt1 m6, a 97 z28 30th anniversary car.
I've had the car sitting all winter and don't drive it at all in the cold, it's got 175k on the odometer but the car is fully modded bolt on wise with suspension ect and is all new, runs amazing. I've done all the work & mods myself, the only thing done before me was a new "OE" spec clutch by the previous owner which feels tighter & better than stock.
Pulled it out to knock the dust off a week back and drove up to the gas station, it was FREEZING and has been.. Got there and halfway back, went to change gears, put the clutch in and felt the peddle SNAP under my foot... It went limp and stays on the floor with no pressure or action at all and I can't drive it or change gears at all now. I can pop the shifter in and out of gear with the car off, and it still lets me start it with the limp clutch to the floor. The clutch is working, if I crank the engine in gear it will move in every gear...
So wtf happened? As far as I know there isn't a specific "cable" I could replace and until now I've never had an issue with any M6 so I'm unfamiliar with the parts & tear down but I can definitely manage fixing it if I can figure out where to start. I got it in the garage today and plan on getting underneath it ASAP, but can anyone tell me what just happened or some part info so I know how much time/money i might need to get ready for?
Thanks in advance guys, hoping its something small so I can get her rolling again
I've had the car sitting all winter and don't drive it at all in the cold, it's got 175k on the odometer but the car is fully modded bolt on wise with suspension ect and is all new, runs amazing. I've done all the work & mods myself, the only thing done before me was a new "OE" spec clutch by the previous owner which feels tighter & better than stock.
Pulled it out to knock the dust off a week back and drove up to the gas station, it was FREEZING and has been.. Got there and halfway back, went to change gears, put the clutch in and felt the peddle SNAP under my foot... It went limp and stays on the floor with no pressure or action at all and I can't drive it or change gears at all now. I can pop the shifter in and out of gear with the car off, and it still lets me start it with the limp clutch to the floor. The clutch is working, if I crank the engine in gear it will move in every gear...
So wtf happened? As far as I know there isn't a specific "cable" I could replace and until now I've never had an issue with any M6 so I'm unfamiliar with the parts & tear down but I can definitely manage fixing it if I can figure out where to start. I got it in the garage today and plan on getting underneath it ASAP, but can anyone tell me what just happened or some part info so I know how much time/money i might need to get ready for?
Thanks in advance guys, hoping its something small so I can get her rolling again
TECH Veteran
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 4,145
Likes: 61
From: Little Rock, AR
There isn't a cable. There is an hydraulic master cylinder and a hose to a slave cylinder. The whole thing is usually sold as a unit. You'll still want to scope it out to be sure the fork, t-bolt or something else has not failed.
There is and was no fluid leakage and no signs of damage or failure when it happened though, I couldn't make out what happened... The peddle just snapped under my foot and fell completely limp instantly as if something snapped/disconnected 
I'll look into it ASAP and see if anything stands out after I jack it up... Is this a pretty common thing or no? Are you guys saying it pretty much has to be the hydro master and is it simple to install?
Anything else I should do while I'm in there? Any M6 mods or improvements?
Hope it's no big deal.. It's funny I turn the car into a street beast, beat it all summer ripping **** up and park it for winter running A1 only to start it up drive it 10 blocks like an elderly man and have my clutch/peddle/whatever self destruct.
I'll look into it ASAP and see if anything stands out after I jack it up... Is this a pretty common thing or no? Are you guys saying it pretty much has to be the hydro master and is it simple to install?
Anything else I should do while I'm in there? Any M6 mods or improvements?
Hope it's no big deal.. It's funny I turn the car into a street beast, beat it all summer ripping **** up and park it for winter running A1 only to start it up drive it 10 blocks like an elderly man and have my clutch/peddle/whatever self destruct.
TECH Veteran
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 4,985
Likes: 112
jack up the car on stands, remove the slave (part attached to bellhousing) by removing the 2 nuts holding it on. Now slide off the slave spacer. You will see the clutch fork which should be positioned like the pic attached. If it has a bunch of slop you either:
broke/bent fork
broke pivot bolt fork ride on
Throw Out bearing broke (lip peeled up or broke off).
3rd point is what I would "guess" happened. Your tranny will need to be pulled to fix any of the above with the 3rd point meaning the clutch needs to come out to replace TO bearing.
SPEC reports they now offer a "better" TO bearing for their LT1 clutches than they previously offered
beyond that the clutch could have failed but hydraulics, fork or TO bearing failure are more likely
broke/bent fork
broke pivot bolt fork ride on
Throw Out bearing broke (lip peeled up or broke off).
3rd point is what I would "guess" happened. Your tranny will need to be pulled to fix any of the above with the 3rd point meaning the clutch needs to come out to replace TO bearing.
SPEC reports they now offer a "better" TO bearing for their LT1 clutches than they previously offered
beyond that the clutch could have failed but hydraulics, fork or TO bearing failure are more likely
Launching!
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 284
Likes: 0
From: Dixon, IL
When you pull the slave cylinder and spacer, take a flashlight and find where the clutch fork's pivot point meets trans. Make sure it is flush, with NO gap in between them. Mine made the same sound last week, but I didnt loose all pressure because it only pulled out about 1/4". If thats the case, trans comes out.
But it sounds like your slave over-extended and popped out. That would explain why the pedals to the floor.
But it sounds like your slave over-extended and popped out. That would explain why the pedals to the floor.
So it sounds like its not a bad break but its going to be some labor... I've got hundreds of hours in working on fbodies but no experience trans wise, most I ever did was swap in my 3600 stall on my 383/700r4 car with help from friends... No M6 work but is this a fix I can manage myself? I got skills, a warm garage, and any tool I'd need, times not a big deal either as long as I can manage doing it right the first time.
So I'm probably looking at buying new hydros if the slave popped out or something similar happened right, and would that install be as simple as pulling and swapping them prebled, few bolts? If the fork or to bearing ect is fucked the trannys gotta come out, but not for the slave & master?
So I'm probably looking at buying new hydros if the slave popped out or something similar happened right, and would that install be as simple as pulling and swapping them prebled, few bolts? If the fork or to bearing ect is fucked the trannys gotta come out, but not for the slave & master?
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Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 284
Likes: 0
From: Dixon, IL
So it sounds like its not a bad break but its going to be some labor... I've got hundreds of hours in working on fbodies but no experience trans wise, most I ever did was swap in my 3600 stall on my 383/700r4 car with help from friends... No M6 work but is this a fix I can manage myself? I got skills, a warm garage, and any tool I'd need, times not a big deal either as long as I can manage doing it right the first time.
So I'm probably looking at buying new hydros if the slave popped out or something similar happened right, and would that install be as simple as pulling and swapping them prebled, few bolts? If the fork or to bearing ect is fucked the trannys gotta come out, but not for the slave & master?
So I'm probably looking at buying new hydros if the slave popped out or something similar happened right, and would that install be as simple as pulling and swapping them prebled, few bolts? If the fork or to bearing ect is fucked the trannys gotta come out, but not for the slave & master?
Staging Lane
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
So it sounds like its not a bad break but its going to be some labor... I've got hundreds of hours in working on fbodies but no experience trans wise, most I ever did was swap in my 3600 stall on my 383/700r4 car with help from friends... No M6 work but is this a fix I can manage myself? I got skills, a warm garage, and any tool I'd need, times not a big deal either as long as I can manage doing it right the first time.
So I'm probably looking at buying new hydros if the slave popped out or something similar happened right, and would that install be as simple as pulling and swapping them prebled, few bolts? If the fork or to bearing ect is fucked the trannys gotta come out, but not for the slave & master?
So I'm probably looking at buying new hydros if the slave popped out or something similar happened right, and would that install be as simple as pulling and swapping them prebled, few bolts? If the fork or to bearing ect is fucked the trannys gotta come out, but not for the slave & master?
TECH Veteran
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 4,985
Likes: 112
So I'm probably looking at buying new hydros if the slave popped out or something similar happened right, and would that install be as simple as pulling and swapping them prebled, few bolts? If the fork or to bearing ect is fucked the trannys gotta come out, but not for the slave & master?
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 120
Likes: 20
From: Tucson, AZ
When I broke my fork the peddle went stiff after a pump or so and I could not depress it again, my dad said i was doing something wrong and forced the peddle down and I heard a horrible crackling sound and later found out my slave over traveled and was destroyed. After that the peddle was always loose.
Well I fixed it again and about a month later I ripped the throwout bearing like many others and the peddle went stiff again.
Had a shop fix that one and then tore the car apart. . .
Well I fixed it again and about a month later I ripped the throwout bearing like many others and the peddle went stiff again.
Had a shop fix that one and then tore the car apart. . .
Alright thanks for the info guys you saved me a lot of bs as always.. I think pulling the tranny will be no problem and from what I hear the t56 is decent to work on, if I do end up needing to. It would be a shame considering how nice the car shifted & grabbed before this, but it probably needs work... Now that I think of it I always complained about the 6 speed feeling like it was hitting a wall or big bump before it would notch into gear that made it tough to race, even after the MGW shifter install there was always a lot of resistance shifting... Could that be related? Bearing/fork?
I took some adderall today lol... I'll definitely get under the car tonight sometime, **** makes you love working & solving problems haha... I'll report back with my findings ASAP. Again is there anything you guys would suggest upgrading, modding, while I'm in there either way? Or any suggestions on parts, or what I might expect to pay bringing the trans into a shop after I yank it?
Sorry for all the questions, I'm thorough with my cars, it's my baby
I took some adderall today lol... I'll definitely get under the car tonight sometime, **** makes you love working & solving problems haha... I'll report back with my findings ASAP. Again is there anything you guys would suggest upgrading, modding, while I'm in there either way? Or any suggestions on parts, or what I might expect to pay bringing the trans into a shop after I yank it?
Sorry for all the questions, I'm thorough with my cars, it's my baby
TECH Veteran
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 4,985
Likes: 112
while you will quickly see if in fact the fork is lose when you pull the slave...the "why" will require the tranny to be pulled. If the fork is bent/broken or the pivot bolt is broken that it slides on that is external to the tranny and very simple to replace. you don't need to bust in the tranny
If the fork is fine but the TO bearing lip peeled back, the clutch needs to come out to replace TO bearing
you mention the car has been hard to shift for some time suggest the problem was there and finally gave way. over TQ on the PP bolts would cause this so confirm TQ at 22 ft lbs on install
my guess is the TO bearing let go. SPEC offers a supposedly better one now for around $80 IIRC. Some have tach welded the lip to the bearing as a preventative measure.
If the fork is fine but the TO bearing lip peeled back, the clutch needs to come out to replace TO bearing
you mention the car has been hard to shift for some time suggest the problem was there and finally gave way. over TQ on the PP bolts would cause this so confirm TQ at 22 ft lbs on install
my guess is the TO bearing let go. SPEC offers a supposedly better one now for around $80 IIRC. Some have tach welded the lip to the bearing as a preventative measure.
Sorry I haven't been online, I needed my iPhone5 replaced and it turned into a nightmare.. Sprint SUCKS.
Anyway I tore into the beast a few nights ago and pulled the (slave? 2 13mm nuts drivers side of transmission braided steel line from It to the firewall)... Not sure what to make of it since its the first time I've ever messed with the t56 but what I saw appeared normal. Inside the hole on the Trans was a sort of plate with a half circle indent where the slave/rod pushed. The plate was loose and easy to move back/forth with my fingers...
Ill take pics in a few minutes & take a little vid of the slop in the plate if needed... The rod is totally straight, the cylinder compressed under medium pressure pushing the rod with my palm. The cylinder is greenish in color and no fluid came out anywhere. There is nothing fixing/guiding the rod aside from the rubber boot it seems. Normal?
Anyway I tore into the beast a few nights ago and pulled the (slave? 2 13mm nuts drivers side of transmission braided steel line from It to the firewall)... Not sure what to make of it since its the first time I've ever messed with the t56 but what I saw appeared normal. Inside the hole on the Trans was a sort of plate with a half circle indent where the slave/rod pushed. The plate was loose and easy to move back/forth with my fingers...
Ill take pics in a few minutes & take a little vid of the slop in the plate if needed... The rod is totally straight, the cylinder compressed under medium pressure pushing the rod with my palm. The cylinder is greenish in color and no fluid came out anywhere. There is nothing fixing/guiding the rod aside from the rubber boot it seems. Normal?
Lol what I DID end up finding is what I originally thought happened -_- got under the peddles/dash with a few mirrors and saw there's a linkage for the clutch peddle... When I followed the clutch peddle way up I found it had busted loose from a thin rod that goes into a cylinder then through the firewall.
It's hard as hell to work up under there. I thought I had it popped back on but when I tried pushing the clutch down it was hard as a rock so either it wasn't on right, the slave being off affected it, or something else IS messed up.
It's hard as hell to work up under there. I thought I had it popped back on but when I tried pushing the clutch down it was hard as a rock so either it wasn't on right, the slave being off affected it, or something else IS messed up.
So yeah.. The peddle goes to the clutch master then goes to the slave on the Trans via braided line. Is it possible the peddle just busted loose from the rod on the master, or is it more likely one or both malfunctioned and caused it to pop off...?
All the slave pictures I see show the rod held down into the slave with a zip tie type deal... Is that only how they come new or should mine have that piece? Slowly figuring this out bear with my dumbass questions lol
All the slave pictures I see show the rod held down into the slave with a zip tie type deal... Is that only how they come new or should mine have that piece? Slowly figuring this out bear with my dumbass questions lol
I guess I'm going to go give it a shot, I hope I don't need to bleed or anything... Just going to pop the boot & rod back into the slave and tighten it into the hole/plate again. Hope after I pop the peddle back on the master rod ill have a functioning clutch again!
After a ton of reading old clutch threads I have a good idea of what I'm doing now. So the clutch fork IS indeed loose and can be wiggled by hand easily... Basically I should get the mechanics mirror and check inside for the TO bearing failure or fork bolt failure, ect...
I don't get why it busted the peddle loose from the master rod...
I don't get why it busted the peddle loose from the master rod...
