Questions with setup.
Questions with setup. Hello everyone
I just picked up a set of AFR 210's (1057) the other day, and have some questions on setup. I think I have to use longer pushrods with this head setup. Is this true? I currently have ported stock heads. I also have cran 1.6 rockers, and hardened stock length 1 piece pushrods, and new springs.
I am running a GM847 cam currently, and I'm wondering if I need to either use my current springs (I'll look up the specs later) or if Ill be fine with the setup in the new heads. The new springs are 140 seat, 450@.650. are those enough for a GM847? Pretty sure they also have Jegs 1.6 roller rockers and I know for sure they have AFR stud girdles.
Thats the other question. The AFR stud girdles would be nice to run, but are freaking huge and I would have to attempt to find valve covers to fit. I am NOT interested in relocating my alternator.... and I'd like to use my stock covers. is thsi possible, or should I just ditch the girdles?
I'm also kind of wondering how much Ill gain with these new heads... LOL the stockers I have on the car atm are not ported that much, and have stock valve sizes.
I just picked up a set of AFR 210's (1057) the other day, and have some questions on setup. I think I have to use longer pushrods with this head setup. Is this true? I currently have ported stock heads. I also have cran 1.6 rockers, and hardened stock length 1 piece pushrods, and new springs.
I am running a GM847 cam currently, and I'm wondering if I need to either use my current springs (I'll look up the specs later) or if Ill be fine with the setup in the new heads. The new springs are 140 seat, 450@.650. are those enough for a GM847? Pretty sure they also have Jegs 1.6 roller rockers and I know for sure they have AFR stud girdles.
Thats the other question. The AFR stud girdles would be nice to run, but are freaking huge and I would have to attempt to find valve covers to fit. I am NOT interested in relocating my alternator.... and I'd like to use my stock covers. is thsi possible, or should I just ditch the girdles?
I'm also kind of wondering how much Ill gain with these new heads... LOL the stockers I have on the car atm are not ported that much, and have stock valve sizes.
Proper engine building practice goes without saying that you will need to check for pushrod length whenever you change the valvetrain.
What kind of bottom end are you running, and what are the rest of your mods/goals? So far the only thing we know of are as-cast AFR 210s and a GM847.
What kind of bottom end are you running, and what are the rest of your mods/goals? So far the only thing we know of are as-cast AFR 210s and a GM847.
Sorry about that LOL
This is the shortblock setup:
Eagle 4340 crank, 4340 H-beams, ARP 2000 hardware throughout. Forged mahle pistons with valve releifs. Splayed 1994 block to a 4 bolt main. deleted oil cooler. I'm running a built 4L60E with a PTC 3500 stall 10" converter. Stock (new) vented Opti with OVC MSD wires. Lucas 42pph injectors. Deleted EGR. ARP head studs. 160* thermostat. Poly motor, trans and Torque arm mounts. 10 bolt rear end with girdle. Dyno tuned by Late Model Throttle in Waukeshau WI. The tune netted 347 rwhp, and 357 ftlbs of torque.
Honestly, the car currently has some home ported stock heads with stock sized valves, stock pushod length, decent rate springs and 1.6 RRs. Intake has also been ported. Unfortunately, I dont have flow numbers. I DO know that after the recent motor rebuild, it is a 10.5:1 compression motor. I don't have the paperwork handy (just moved) but I can probably find it if you need mroe specifics. The motor was set up for nitrous in the future.
I'm honestly not sure what my goals are. Its definitely a street car, and is always driven on the street. I see the track mabey twice a year. My best at the track (before the motor was rebuilt, had bad rings.... trashed the pistons and broke a crank eventually) was a 12.92@107mph. I'm hoping N/A to be in the low 12's high 11's in the 1/4 with a full weight car on ET streets. I would be pretty happy with that.
I really dont know what I'm looking at times and HP wise with my current combo and the AFR's honenstly.
Hope that helps LOL
This is the shortblock setup:
Eagle 4340 crank, 4340 H-beams, ARP 2000 hardware throughout. Forged mahle pistons with valve releifs. Splayed 1994 block to a 4 bolt main. deleted oil cooler. I'm running a built 4L60E with a PTC 3500 stall 10" converter. Stock (new) vented Opti with OVC MSD wires. Lucas 42pph injectors. Deleted EGR. ARP head studs. 160* thermostat. Poly motor, trans and Torque arm mounts. 10 bolt rear end with girdle. Dyno tuned by Late Model Throttle in Waukeshau WI. The tune netted 347 rwhp, and 357 ftlbs of torque.
Honestly, the car currently has some home ported stock heads with stock sized valves, stock pushod length, decent rate springs and 1.6 RRs. Intake has also been ported. Unfortunately, I dont have flow numbers. I DO know that after the recent motor rebuild, it is a 10.5:1 compression motor. I don't have the paperwork handy (just moved) but I can probably find it if you need mroe specifics. The motor was set up for nitrous in the future.
I'm honestly not sure what my goals are. Its definitely a street car, and is always driven on the street. I see the track mabey twice a year. My best at the track (before the motor was rebuilt, had bad rings.... trashed the pistons and broke a crank eventually) was a 12.92@107mph. I'm hoping N/A to be in the low 12's high 11's in the 1/4 with a full weight car on ET streets. I would be pretty happy with that.
I really dont know what I'm looking at times and HP wise with my current combo and the AFR's honenstly.
Hope that helps LOL
