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Slicks or Drag radials? Will it make much difference?
Thread Starter
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From: Nebraska
Slicks or Drag radials? Will it make much difference? I didn't bother putting this in the tires section cuz I never get an answer. So i'll let my LT1 friends help me out.
I've been trying for a goal of a 12.99 with bolt-ons and i'm trying to decide if going to a full drag wheel setup will benefit much.
Right now i'm running Nitto NT05Rs with the 17" WS6 wheels on the rear and they work pretty well at the track.
My question is, would I benefit much at this power level with a Slicks and some Bigs n Littles Prostars? I just want to know if it's really worth it right now. I know the 15" wheels will help because of more sidewall.
Also I already have an S60 and a Stage 3 D&D T-56 so i'm not worried about breaking anything lol.
I've been trying for a goal of a 12.99 with bolt-ons and i'm trying to decide if going to a full drag wheel setup will benefit much.
Right now i'm running Nitto NT05Rs with the 17" WS6 wheels on the rear and they work pretty well at the track.
My question is, would I benefit much at this power level with a Slicks and some Bigs n Littles Prostars? I just want to know if it's really worth it right now. I know the 15" wheels will help because of more sidewall.
Also I already have an S60 and a Stage 3 D&D T-56 so i'm not worried about breaking anything lol.
I would not bother with front skinnies at this point, hell I haven't bothered with them yet, spend the $500 on something that makes power.
Far as the rear tires, radials will run a little faster if you can hook them. I took the lazy way out and I just run a ET Drag full slick I know it cost me some mph and a little ET but it is simple, the only "drag racing suspension mod" I have is Airlift bags with more pressure in the passenger side.
How close are you to your goal?
I would look at rockers and springs.
If you see yourself adding real HP later I would consider 15" rear rims, the 17" might work now but the more power the harder it will be with the short sidewall.
It really shouldn't take much, if you are having trouble maybe try and get some rowing instruction.
Far as the rear tires, radials will run a little faster if you can hook them. I took the lazy way out and I just run a ET Drag full slick I know it cost me some mph and a little ET but it is simple, the only "drag racing suspension mod" I have is Airlift bags with more pressure in the passenger side.
How close are you to your goal?
I would look at rockers and springs.
If you see yourself adding real HP later I would consider 15" rear rims, the 17" might work now but the more power the harder it will be with the short sidewall.
It really shouldn't take much, if you are having trouble maybe try and get some rowing instruction.
Just to be clear, yes skinnies will help some, BUT why spend all that coin on something that is a hassle to swap and you can only really use at the track? Spend it on something you can enjoy any time you put your foot in the pedal.
To me changing the back tires alone at the track is enough hassle without having to swap the fronts before leaving for the track as well.
To me changing the back tires alone at the track is enough hassle without having to swap the fronts before leaving for the track as well.
skinnies over stock wheels will help ALOT that a serious amount of rotating weight off the car.......as for rears get a light wheel and a skinny DR don't go putting some massive meat on it you don't need
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,740
Likes: 2
From: Nebraska
I would not bother with front skinnies at this point, hell I haven't bothered with them yet, spend the $500 on something that makes power.
Far as the rear tires, radials will run a little faster if you can hook them. I took the lazy way out and I just run a ET Drag full slick I know it cost me some mph and a little ET but it is simple, the only "drag racing suspension mod" I have is Airlift bags with more pressure in the passenger side.
How close are you to your goal?
I would look at rockers and springs.
If you see yourself adding real HP later I would consider 15" rear rims, the 17" might work now but the more power the harder it will be with the short sidewall.
It really shouldn't take much, if you are having trouble maybe try and get some rowing instruction.
Far as the rear tires, radials will run a little faster if you can hook them. I took the lazy way out and I just run a ET Drag full slick I know it cost me some mph and a little ET but it is simple, the only "drag racing suspension mod" I have is Airlift bags with more pressure in the passenger side.
How close are you to your goal?
I would look at rockers and springs.
If you see yourself adding real HP later I would consider 15" rear rims, the 17" might work now but the more power the harder it will be with the short sidewall.
It really shouldn't take much, if you are having trouble maybe try and get some rowing instruction.
Alright thats good info.
Best i've done so far was a 13.40 @104 with a 1.97 60ft. This was with a DA too.
That was with 3:73s, 10 bolt, and stock clutch.
I now have 4.10s, S60, and a competition Stage 2.5 clutch.
I actually have some Comp Pro Mag 1.6 RRs, 7/16 studs, TF guideplates, and LT4 springs just laying around whenever I want to put those on. I just want to see what I can do with the other stuff here first.
I know I can improve my 60ft I think. Once the track opens in April, i'm going right away so I can get a ahold of a nice DA.
I also have LCA relocation brackets, Tubular LCAs and an Adjustable Panhard now.
Last edited by 93M6Formula; Mar 28, 2013 at 01:27 PM.
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Thread Starter
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From: Nebraska
Trust me I know too much tire isn't necessarily a good thing. I was gonna go with a 15x8 wheel anyway.
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Get yourself an extra set of stock aluminum wheels and BFG DR's to take to the track and use only at the track and that should do you fine for what you're trying to do. Function over form IMO.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2008
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From: Nebraska
I know I thought about that too....unfortunately I just hauled my stock godawful 93-94 firebird wheels to the scrap yard lol.
I did spend good money on MT forged rear drag rims. 12-13lbs for a 15x10" rim.
While I agree with quik I would also say buy with an eye to the future, if you know you are going to push it later buy one good pair of rears you can stick with, that might mean going wider than necessary for now but why spend the money twice.
Again skinnies would help but on a true street car I just don't see it worth the hassle, your goal is not an aggressive one where you need to pull out all the stops.
My idea of skinnies is the stock 15x7" rims my car came with with stock sized tires rather than the wider UHP z-rated tires I run in the summer.
While I agree with quik I would also say buy with an eye to the future, if you know you are going to push it later buy one good pair of rears you can stick with, that might mean going wider than necessary for now but why spend the money twice.
Again skinnies would help but on a true street car I just don't see it worth the hassle, your goal is not an aggressive one where you need to pull out all the stops.
My idea of skinnies is the stock 15x7" rims my car came with with stock sized tires rather than the wider UHP z-rated tires I run in the summer.
I vote drag radials. The MTs are beast. At this point in my car's life it won't see another set of tires that aren't MT DRs.
The 17" wheels are not helping you at this point regardless of the tire choice.
The 17" wheels are not helping you at this point regardless of the tire choice.
After getting caught in the rain in slicks, I'll never run them again unless it's a track-only car or I got a crazu deal on them. Spinning out through the middle of an intersection while puttering along at 25-30mph will do that to you. A decent DR will get you what you want. Also just driving around slicks are terrible compared to DR's. Running DR's will let you run your drag wheels comfortably on the street without fear of rain whenever you want. Not to mention if you decide not to run a bias ply skinny up front the car will drive even worse on a slick. Hell one time during a street race I had the rear end basically float me into the next lane, luckily I was beating him pretty good.
Get the skinnies, will make the car look great and help at the track. Unless of course money is tight, but then again if it was you shouldn't be dumping money in a car.
Get the skinnies, will make the car look great and help at the track. Unless of course money is tight, but then again if it was you shouldn't be dumping money in a car.
I am a 6speed Guy and to be honest the dragradials are harder to launch and be consistent with not to mention they are MUCH harder on your ring and pinion.. you want an ET STREET,Hoosier QTP or an M&H racemaster tire, soft sidewall to absorb some of the shock from that 6speed.. PRACTICE your launches, get the feel, learn what you feel the car will tell you what it likes if you pay attention.....
I am a 6speed Guy and to be honest the dragradials are harder to launch and be consistent with not to mention they are MUCH harder on your ring and pinion.. you want an ET STREET,Hoosier QTP or an M&H racemaster tire, soft sidewall to absorb some of the shock from that 6speed.. PRACTICE your launches, get the feel, learn what you feel the car will tell you what it likes if you pay attention.....
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From: A DEN
I am a 6speed Guy and to be honest the dragradials are harder to launch and be consistent with not to mention they are MUCH harder on your ring and pinion.. you want an ET STREET,Hoosier QTP or an M&H racemaster tire, soft sidewall to absorb some of the shock from that 6speed.. PRACTICE your launches, get the feel, learn what you feel the car will tell you what it likes if you pay attention.....
You need a stiff sidewall tire for a 6 speed. But you are right about 6 speeds are better with the slick...
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Just weighed my street rims vs my slicks and skinnies.
17in rims with 275/40s came in at 56lbs a corner. So 224lbs total.
15x10 rear with ET Streets weigh 40.5lbs so total of 81lbs.
15x4.5 front with ET runners weigh 22.5lbs total of 45lbs.
So the rear saved 31lbs.
Front saved 67lbs.
----------------------------
Total savings of 98lbs.
17in rims with 275/40s came in at 56lbs a corner. So 224lbs total.
15x10 rear with ET Streets weigh 40.5lbs so total of 81lbs.
15x4.5 front with ET runners weigh 22.5lbs total of 45lbs.
So the rear saved 31lbs.
Front saved 67lbs.
----------------------------
Total savings of 98lbs.
Just weighed my street rims vs my slicks and skinnies.
17in rims with 275/40s came in at 56lbs a corner. So 224lbs total.
15x10 rear with ET Streets weigh 40.5lbs so total of 81lbs.
15x4.5 front with ET runners weigh 22.5lbs total of 45lbs.
So the rear saved 31lbs.
Front saved 67lbs.
----------------------------
Total savings of 98lbs.
17in rims with 275/40s came in at 56lbs a corner. So 224lbs total.
15x10 rear with ET Streets weigh 40.5lbs so total of 81lbs.
15x4.5 front with ET runners weigh 22.5lbs total of 45lbs.
So the rear saved 31lbs.
Front saved 67lbs.
----------------------------
Total savings of 98lbs.
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You would be correct sir.
If you say 2:1 ratio of rotating vs static weight thats 196lbs.
Figure 10lbs = ~1hp thats 19.6hp.
(Obviously the above is just figures)
If you say 2:1 ratio of rotating vs static weight thats 196lbs.
Figure 10lbs = ~1hp thats 19.6hp.
(Obviously the above is just figures)
Last edited by F0x Slaughter; Mar 28, 2013 at 09:12 PM.