Explain half filled block
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From: Orlando
Yes slim but not impossible. You can have it on low boost setting for grocery getter, then turn the boost up and throw in some C16 and easily make 1000+ to the tire. Done right and enough research impossible is just a mental illusion.
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From: Orlando
Oh C’mon now is this really the time to clown on the young blood? lol the most powerful car ive ever driven was a friends LS2 GTO with a heads, cam, & intake supposedly that had around 520rwhp(He claimed). Was manual and I didnt bother using 1st gear. Roasted the tires in 2nd & 3rd. Was quick on the highway.. Raced him in my stock LT1 and he killed me. Its a learning process for me and as for everyone else. Its not like one day ill wake up driving a 1000hp car when yesterday I drove a 275 horse car. lol So please stop trying to make me look like a fool. There was a day when you had no clue how to drive 600hp.
I just dont want you to drown when you decide to leave the kiddy pool. There is a lot of steps before you get to 1000hp. Thinking logically, lets say you want this 1000hp DD. Now if you are going to de-tune it to run on pump gas for the street, lets say you pull enough boost and timing to drop to 600 hp. Now that is just a 400 hp drop. If you are running a turbo and are getting an average of 15hp/# that is going to be a nearly 20# drop in boost pressure. Now what setup can you have that will produce 600hp on pump gas AND be able to push 20 more #'s of boost? Sure 600 hp on a Lt/ls motor is relatively easy with boost, but to be able to handle 20 more #'s requires a spring that is pretty hefty and will require change out decently often. Now it's a DD so im thinking 15-20k miles a year. Now the quality of turbo to be able to push that amount of #'s reliably DD is going to be a nice SHINY penny. Now lets dont forget the rest of the car. The trans is going to have to be pretty beefy, Also the rearend. Getting a quality tune for DD on this setup is going to take some time. More Money there.... Suspension is still on the list. Now how about the chassis holding all that torque.... It really is a different league than most people are willing to go. It is a nice pipe dream though.
The cheapest way to make 1000 will be a BBC if you try on an SBC you will spend so much more. I'm looking at a Big M with Big Cheifs or BMF heads. Going to be 540CI or larger looking for 1150 and I won't be spinning it past 7800.
I can promise you two things;
1. You won't be able to get it to the pavement, I have a hard enough time with 16in meats.
2. It will not be streetable, I made 580 on the engine dyno on a 396LT1. I had to replace most of the stock items. With a 275 M/T tire I couldn't get traction on any street surface.
I can promise you two things;
1. You won't be able to get it to the pavement, I have a hard enough time with 16in meats.
2. It will not be streetable, I made 580 on the engine dyno on a 396LT1. I had to replace most of the stock items. With a 275 M/T tire I couldn't get traction on any street surface.
The cheapest way to make 1000 will be a BBC if you try on an SBC you will spend so much more. I'm looking at a Big M with Big Cheifs or BMF heads. Going to be 540CI or larger looking for 1150 and I won't be spinning it past 7800.
I can promise you two things;
1. You won't be able to get it to the pavement, I have a hard enough time with 16in meats.
2. It will not be streetable, I made 580 on the engine dyno on a 396LT1. I had to replace most of the stock items. With a 275 M/T tire I couldn't get traction on any street surface.
I can promise you two things;
1. You won't be able to get it to the pavement, I have a hard enough time with 16in meats.
2. It will not be streetable, I made 580 on the engine dyno on a 396LT1. I had to replace most of the stock items. With a 275 M/T tire I couldn't get traction on any street surface.
You can make 750 on motor and still be a pump gas street car with a BBC...all while keeping it under 7,000 RPM.
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From: T E X A S
The cheapest way to make 1000 will be a BBC if you try on an SBC you will spend so much more. I'm looking at a Big M with Big Cheifs or BMF heads. Going to be 540CI or larger looking for 1150 and I won't be spinning it past 7800.
I can promise you two things;
1. You won't be able to get it to the pavement, I have a hard enough time with 16in meats.
2. It will not be streetable, I made 580 on the engine dyno on a 396LT1. I had to replace most of the stock items. With a 275 M/T tire I couldn't get traction on any street surface.
I can promise you two things;
1. You won't be able to get it to the pavement, I have a hard enough time with 16in meats.
2. It will not be streetable, I made 580 on the engine dyno on a 396LT1. I had to replace most of the stock items. With a 275 M/T tire I couldn't get traction on any street surface.
this kid is just dreaming, odds are he wrecks it or the first opti change ends up selling it on craigslist to some other unsuspecting 1000RWHP daily driving 16 year old.
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From: Orlando
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Joined: Apr 2010
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From: T E X A S
the lt1 is a dead platform... much better ways to achieve power. most of us who have decent running cars only ended up with the that way because of a snowball effect. If we had the access to ls motors that we do now when we started playing with the lt1.. we wouldn't have kept it.
Admit it, you don't have the experience, know how or the means to build and maintain a 1000hp... anything
might as well let it go for a while and play with what you got.
Admit it, you don't have the experience, know how or the means to build and maintain a 1000hp... anything
might as well let it go for a while and play with what you got.
I love threads like these. Makes me remember when I was 16 and my water pump threw up on my opti. I didn't even know what optispark was. Now I'm building my 6th engine and aiming for 500 rwhp on this LT1 at the age of 20. So don't be hating too hard on us young guys, although 1000 rwhp a big dream. Plan, Plan, Plan. That will be one crazy build if it ever happens.
Thread Starter
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From: Orlando
I just dont want you to drown when you decide to leave the kiddy pool. There is a lot of steps before you get to 1000hp. Thinking logically, lets say you want this 1000hp DD. Now if you are going to de-tune it to run on pump gas for the street, lets say you pull enough boost and timing to drop to 600 hp. Now that is just a 400 hp drop. If you are running a turbo and are getting an average of 15hp/# that is going to be a nearly 20# drop in boost pressure. Now what setup can you have that will produce 600hp on pump gas AND be able to push 20 more #'s of boost? Sure 600 hp on a Lt/ls motor is relatively easy with boost, but to be able to handle 20 more #'s requires a spring that is pretty hefty and will require change out decently often. Now it's a DD so im thinking 15-20k miles a year. Now the quality of turbo to be able to push that amount of #'s reliably DD is going to be a nice SHINY penny. Now lets dont forget the rest of the car. The trans is going to have to be pretty beefy, Also the rearend. Getting a quality tune for DD on this setup is going to take some time. More Money there.... Suspension is still on the list. Now how about the chassis holding all that torque.... It really is a different league than most people are willing to go. It is a nice pipe dream though.
Good points. Im only going to take an engine build step by step. But if I were to build a 1000hp LT1 car from my knowledge I would go:
Engine: 396ci
Top end,
AI 200cc heads or ARF 210 heads
Single plane or custom hogan intake with mono-blade
Hyd Roller Cam with specs near CC306 range
Shaft mounts
Isky 295D springs, titanium retainers
Crower lifters
Smith bros pushrods
Manley TI valves
Cometic copper Gaskets
9:1 CR
Bottom End,
Callies Dragon Slayer Crank
Oliver billet rods
Diamond custom pistons
Clevite 77 bearings
ARP bolts
4 bolt splayed
Oiling system,
Custom Hi quart steel pan
melling HV pump
external oil cooler
Drive-Train,
Custom PowerGlide tranny or a Beefed up TR6060
Steel drive shaft
Moser 9” with 3.23 gears
Cooling,
Griffin 31 x 19 radiator
Custom Aluminum Rad Hoses
Meziere EWP
Forced Induction,
Twin 76mm turbos
Air to Water twin intercoolers
Tial billet wastegates
But then again you guys are right. I have a lot to learn and pretty sure most of you guys would of gone a different route in terms of the parts I listed.
Last edited by 93Euphoria; Apr 4, 2013 at 09:19 PM.
sounds just like my car but i have twin 72mm. no need for 76s. and dont forget $3k in fuel and about $1500 to $2000 in programming. and than **** still breaks if not ur babying it. i run 28 psi on a semi basic street car. i plan on about 10k miles this year. and what ecu management system are you running?
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From the top.
Why 396?
You are now boring the cylinders from the factory 4" to 4.040". Max for a LT1 block is 4.060". You are going to be running 20+ psi, you have no reduced wall thickness to where deflection can happen.
Why go through this trouble to run a hydraulic cam? Run a solid roller.
I wouldn't run stock main caps, billet main caps for this application.
Huge debate on splay or straight. So debatable.
Why air to water intercoolers when air to air is fine.
Also you would be looking if you plan on staying fuel injection, either 24x, or full stand alone timing/fuel system such as MegaSquirt.
Why 396?
You are now boring the cylinders from the factory 4" to 4.040". Max for a LT1 block is 4.060". You are going to be running 20+ psi, you have no reduced wall thickness to where deflection can happen.
Why go through this trouble to run a hydraulic cam? Run a solid roller.
I wouldn't run stock main caps, billet main caps for this application.
Huge debate on splay or straight. So debatable.
Why air to water intercoolers when air to air is fine.
Also you would be looking if you plan on staying fuel injection, either 24x, or full stand alone timing/fuel system such as MegaSquirt.
Thread Starter
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 631
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From: Orlando
sounds just like my car but i have twin 72mm. no need for 76s. and dont forget $3k in fuel and about $1500 to $2000 in programming. and than **** still breaks if not ur babying it. i run 28 psi on a semi basic street car. i plan on about 10k miles this year. and what ecu management system are you running?
Good points. Im only going to take an engine build step by step. But if I were to build a 1000hp LT1 car from my knowledge I would go:
Engine: 396ci
Top end,
AI 200cc heads or ARF 210 heads
Single plane or custom hogan intake with mono-blade Single plane converted, no need for a 3000 custom job
Hyd Roller Cam with specs near CC306 range . . . I need more info on that
Shaft mounts Jesel or T&D another 1000 spent on a sbc, a BBC is just 100 off that
Isky 295D springs, titanium retainers
Crower lifters Ditch the spider for some quality tiebars better part of a grand for just the lifters
Smith bros pushrods
Manley TI valves easily another 800-1000
Cometic copper Gaskets
9:1 CR
Bottom End,
Callies Dragon Slayer Crank
Oliver billet rodsThe only steel rod I would run
Diamond custom pistonsCoat the skirt and diamond will put the hard coating on the top too
Clevite 77 bearings Run the H bearings
ARP bolts
4 bolt splayed
Oiling system,
Custom Hi quart steel pan Stef's will build you anything you want at a premium price, the cheaper pans were hit or miss for me
melling HV pump Wet sump Id run a titan, dry sump run the best you can afford
external oil cooler going to be hard to find a way to pumb this
Drive-Train,
Custom PowerGlide tranny or a Beefed up TR6060 Glide with a 8" converter, buy the best you can afford
Steel drive shaft moly mark williams would work
Moser 9” with 3.23 gears There is several companies that will make you anything you want. How are you going to get this to the ground? Will it be narrowed? 4link?
Cooling,
Griffin 31 x 19 radiator
Custom Aluminum Rad Hoses
Meziere EWP One of the better built EWPs
Forced Induction,
Twin 76mm turbos
Air to Water twin intercoolers
Tial billet wastegates
But then again you guys are right. I have a lot to learn and pretty sure most of you guys would of gone a different route in terms of the parts I listed.
Engine: 396ci
Top end,
AI 200cc heads or ARF 210 heads
Single plane or custom hogan intake with mono-blade Single plane converted, no need for a 3000 custom job
Hyd Roller Cam with specs near CC306 range . . . I need more info on that
Shaft mounts Jesel or T&D another 1000 spent on a sbc, a BBC is just 100 off that
Isky 295D springs, titanium retainers
Crower lifters Ditch the spider for some quality tiebars better part of a grand for just the lifters
Smith bros pushrods
Manley TI valves easily another 800-1000
Cometic copper Gaskets
9:1 CR
Bottom End,
Callies Dragon Slayer Crank
Oliver billet rodsThe only steel rod I would run
Diamond custom pistonsCoat the skirt and diamond will put the hard coating on the top too
Clevite 77 bearings Run the H bearings
ARP bolts
4 bolt splayed
Oiling system,
Custom Hi quart steel pan Stef's will build you anything you want at a premium price, the cheaper pans were hit or miss for me
melling HV pump Wet sump Id run a titan, dry sump run the best you can afford
external oil cooler going to be hard to find a way to pumb this
Drive-Train,
Custom PowerGlide tranny or a Beefed up TR6060 Glide with a 8" converter, buy the best you can afford
Steel drive shaft moly mark williams would work
Moser 9” with 3.23 gears There is several companies that will make you anything you want. How are you going to get this to the ground? Will it be narrowed? 4link?
Cooling,
Griffin 31 x 19 radiator
Custom Aluminum Rad Hoses
Meziere EWP One of the better built EWPs
Forced Induction,
Twin 76mm turbos
Air to Water twin intercoolers
Tial billet wastegates
But then again you guys are right. I have a lot to learn and pretty sure most of you guys would of gone a different route in terms of the parts I listed.
Thread Starter
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 631
Likes: 0
From: Orlando
From the top.
Why 396?
You are now boring the cylinders from the factory 4" to 4.040". Max for a LT1 block is 4.060". You are going to be running 20+ psi, you have no reduced wall thickness to where deflection can happen.
Why go through this trouble to run a hydraulic cam? Run a solid roller.
I wouldn't run stock main caps, billet main caps for this application.
Huge debate on splay or straight. So debatable.
Why air to water intercoolers when air to air is fine.
Also you would be looking if you plan on staying fuel injection, either 24x, or full stand alone timing/fuel system such as MegaSquirt.
Why 396?
You are now boring the cylinders from the factory 4" to 4.040". Max for a LT1 block is 4.060". You are going to be running 20+ psi, you have no reduced wall thickness to where deflection can happen.
Why go through this trouble to run a hydraulic cam? Run a solid roller.
I wouldn't run stock main caps, billet main caps for this application.
Huge debate on splay or straight. So debatable.
Why air to water intercoolers when air to air is fine.
Also you would be looking if you plan on staying fuel injection, either 24x, or full stand alone timing/fuel system such as MegaSquirt.
George Baxters 97 SS convertible made 1,125fwhp on boost BUT it was a trailer queen and he invested close to $100,000 to get it there. And he was a veteran with these cars since the beginning.
Beings that you suggest things like "cam similar to CC306, hydraulic roller, HV oil pump" or want to DD a Powerglide you are light years away from being on the right track. And since you've never built anything before you are undoubtedly going to get many things wrong which will in turn DRASTICALLY increase the budget for this project. Unless you're making HUGE bucks and can just BUY the horsepower this isn't something I'd suggest for you try to piece together on your own.
Not trying to discourage you but it seems you need a bit of a reality check.
Beings that you suggest things like "cam similar to CC306, hydraulic roller, HV oil pump" or want to DD a Powerglide you are light years away from being on the right track. And since you've never built anything before you are undoubtedly going to get many things wrong which will in turn DRASTICALLY increase the budget for this project. Unless you're making HUGE bucks and can just BUY the horsepower this isn't something I'd suggest for you try to piece together on your own.
Not trying to discourage you but it seems you need a bit of a reality check.
Thread Starter
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 631
Likes: 0
From: Orlando
George Baxters 97 SS convertible made 1,125fwhp on boost BUT it was a trailer queen and he invested close to $100,000 to get it there. And he was a veteran with these cars since the beginning.
Beings that you suggest things like "cam similar to CC306, hydraulic roller, HV oil pump" or want to DD a Powerglide you are light years away from being on the right track. And since you've never built anything before you are undoubtedly going to get many things wrong which will in turn DRASTICALLY increase the budget for this project. Unless you're making HUGE bucks and can just BUY the horsepower this isn't something I'd suggest for you try to piece together on your own.
Not trying to discourage you but it seems you need a bit of a reality check.
Beings that you suggest things like "cam similar to CC306, hydraulic roller, HV oil pump" or want to DD a Powerglide you are light years away from being on the right track. And since you've never built anything before you are undoubtedly going to get many things wrong which will in turn DRASTICALLY increase the budget for this project. Unless you're making HUGE bucks and can just BUY the horsepower this isn't something I'd suggest for you try to piece together on your own.
Not trying to discourage you but it seems you need a bit of a reality check.