Explain half filled block
#1
Explain half filled block
Ok so im a newb to big power applications and know that filling the block will make it stronger but does that mean you cant daily drive it or on the street? Would it mess up coolant passages? Just wonder because one day ill be in the crowed of 1000+RWHP LT’s
#3
I don't really see the purpose for it on our blocks. Unless you are running huge power or very thin cylinder bores, you shouldn't even have to consider it.
Edit: just saw ur 1000hp comment. What combo will you go with for that?
Edit: just saw ur 1000hp comment. What combo will you go with for that?
#7
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#9
Being cam driven it is exposed to the torque of the engine. They have been stripped and/or broken in the past, and I wouldn't risk it. With a 1,000 HP build I would definitely be ditching it for an electric setup.
#11
I would only fill the block if I was close to the water jackets on the bottom end, If you clearanced the block for a 4" crank it would be real thin in some areas. There is several different methods to the fill, short and a full fill. If you are serious about 1000hp I would expect it to have at least a small fill and there is no way you would be running a stock waterpump if you have a front mount power adder(you can get away with a stock pump if you aren't trying for 1000). You will have to either move the cut radiator support to stand the radiator up, or fabricate an entire new frontend support.
In short a fill is just a little bit more insurance if you are stuck running a non aftermarket block.
In short a fill is just a little bit more insurance if you are stuck running a non aftermarket block.
#12
I would only fill the block if I was close to the water jackets on the bottom end, If you clearanced the block for a 4" crank it would be real thin in some areas. There is several different methods to the fill, short and a full fill. If you are serious about 1000hp I would expect it to have at least a small fill and there is no way you would be running a stock waterpump if you have a front mount power adder(you can get away with a stock pump if you aren't trying for 1000). You will have to either move the cut radiator support to stand the radiator up, or fabricate an entire new frontend support.
In short a fill is just a little bit more insurance if you are stuck running a non aftermarket block.
In short a fill is just a little bit more insurance if you are stuck running a non aftermarket block.
In a nutshell how good would an EP hold up on the following:
-Lots of abuse Daily Driving
-Long Highway trips
-Plenty of high RPM racing
-Highway racing
-Sustained high rpms for long periods of time (considering more heat, and less water flow)
-Driving back home from the track
Basically having the freedom to do whatever the hell you want like you would if you had an 1000hp LSX still being tame as a cat and reliably evil like a dragon....
#14
#15
what r u doing? turbo, supercharger, nitrous?
you just have to insulate your exhaut good and get a nice radiator and cooling fans. with shields but i have no idea on the exact hp on mine but at 10 psi i had 720rwhp and at 28 psi it still cools fine and i run a electric water pump.
you just have to insulate your exhaut good and get a nice radiator and cooling fans. with shields but i have no idea on the exact hp on mine but at 10 psi i had 720rwhp and at 28 psi it still cools fine and i run a electric water pump.
#16
You would need a over sized cooling system if you are going to run any motor at high load for extended periods. You would also require a substantial fuel system and extra capacity oil system. There is really only one option, an FI motor air to water.
#17
Thanks on the insight! Im assuming the stock water pumps are good to about 700hp?!
#18