REVmax Converters
I ran a revmax converter and was nothing but impressed. For what its worth I ran a 2500 stall, did not spray nitrous until about halfway through first. Here was the basic setup and 60'
Full bolt on lt1
cc503 cam only
2500 Revmax stall
150 tnt plate
373 gears
still slightly spinning the crappy nt555r's
1.67 60'
11.43 1320
Full bolt on lt1
cc503 cam only
2500 Revmax stall
150 tnt plate
373 gears
still slightly spinning the crappy nt555r's
1.67 60'
11.43 1320
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Banned
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 207
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The stage 3 is our non billet unit, hence the price difference. Now, most customers do not need a billet converter. Most of the LT and LS cars are just bolt on vehicles running ~400HP. Thru our R&D we have found that 500 is the HP limit of a stage 3 or over a 100 shot of NOS. The stage 5 units are within a hundred dollars of the competition. We just offer two options, where our competition only offers 1 in most cases...
So much misinformation and nut swinging..
"Don't buy a cheap converter... You have to have a triple disk billet cover yank for your 400hp car."
Yea, go grab one of those off the shelf converters.. Forget the non billet single disk 450$ converter that Will perform better than the Yank.
*Nothing towards yank personally, just using them as an example.
"Don't buy a cheap converter... You have to have a triple disk billet cover yank for your 400hp car."
Yea, go grab one of those off the shelf converters.. Forget the non billet single disk 450$ converter that Will perform better than the Yank.
*Nothing towards yank personally, just using them as an example.
What are the power levels of the engine? Match the converter to the cam and you get what you pay for. You can have an expensive converter that runs like junk or a cheap one that runs well, it just has to be the correct one for the application. I run an A-1 8" it wasn't cheap, but I beat the hell out of it.
Banned
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 207
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What are the power levels of the engine? Match the converter to the cam and you get what you pay for. You can have an expensive converter that runs like junk or a cheap one that runs well, it just has to be the correct one for the application. I run an A-1 8" it wasn't cheap, but I beat the hell out of it.
Awesome, you guys are on here. Thanks for jumping in my thread, i really hadnt heard of you guys which is why i was asking for opinions.
But I do like the reviews from some actual users on here. Im gonna have to call you guys soon. Any specials going on soon?
But I do like the reviews from some actual users on here. Im gonna have to call you guys soon. Any specials going on soon?
wow, pretty surprising actually.
I just dont see myself spending over $500 for a converter. $345 is nice, close to what those Edge converters are running.
I had a Circle D 3000 stall on my 08 sierra, great stall and @$400 it was a bargain! But i think the LT1 stalls from Circle D are around $700?
I use to daily my sierra with the 3k stall, i think id wanna stay around there for my Fbody even if I dont daily drive it. 3200 or so is where id like to be at
I just dont see myself spending over $500 for a converter. $345 is nice, close to what those Edge converters are running.
I had a Circle D 3000 stall on my 08 sierra, great stall and @$400 it was a bargain! But i think the LT1 stalls from Circle D are around $700?
I use to daily my sierra with the 3k stall, i think id wanna stay around there for my Fbody even if I dont daily drive it. 3200 or so is where id like to be at
Sounds like you have a 12" circleD and are looking at a 12" Edge and then comparing them to a 9.5" Circle D LT1 converter.
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Verdad Gallardo I dont remember the exact profile of the circle d i use to have on my truck, i just remember they would call it the TrailBlaser SS restalled converter.
But i paid about $400 for it and ran a 1.97 60ft on an ext cab sierra on 22" wheels which i think is pretty good.
But i paid about $400 for it and ran a 1.97 60ft on an ext cab sierra on 22" wheels which i think is pretty good.
Circle D's budget line for the lt1 only goes to ~2800 advertised rpm. fti will try to talk you into a billet converter if you ask about the budget series, been there done that. If you look around you can find yank converters for cheap, the one in my 95 camaro i bought locally for $350. That said, I'm looking at revmax for the converter in my 96 silverado.
I'm on my second summer with my stage 3 3600 revmax. No complaints here! People that are complaining about them probably haven't ran one. I have yet to see a thread. "my revmax blew up"..... I was on a budget build, haven't had any issues. For the cost, its a great buy!
Has there been any threads on people going pretty fast on them?
What do you have against them? Have you ran one, it let go on you and they wouldn't work something out with you? Or are you just a Yank nutswinger? Do you hate founders performance? Cause they are managing great making the same stuff as umi and bmr for a fraction of the cost...
Converters are not that much of a dark art guys. Yank, Precision, ATI, ect. are not the only guys that can put together a converter. Fluid dynamics is not that hard to grasp. The one blade pushes fluid towards another blade that in turn spins a shaft. The biggest issue is making sure that the pitch of the blades makes the fluid go where you want it, when you want it. The big difference is, just like car builders, one guy does things one way while the other guy does it different way. Either way you get the same results. Quit bashing a company until you have experienced and used the product. Otherwise you follow what everyone else has done and everyone ends up running the same times.
while not a dark art it is not all that simple either, converters are constantly getting better. If it were as simple as you make it sound there would not have been any advances in years.
A lot of times guys switch around brands and each successive converter they are happier with which has something to do with everyone always getting better and with the car owner being able to give each successive vendor a better idea of what they want, which should happen with each successive converter even if you stay with one brand too.
There are companies that do crap work, I tried a "level 10" 2600 stall converter before going to a 2800 Edge and EVERY single thing about the Edge was better, it was lighter, it ran cooler, to drove better and was faster.
I scrapped the Level 10 when the tranny went out and I went to have the converter rebuilt and found out how bad the build quality was on it, like the hub was .1" off center that decimal is in the right place.
A lot of times guys switch around brands and each successive converter they are happier with which has something to do with everyone always getting better and with the car owner being able to give each successive vendor a better idea of what they want, which should happen with each successive converter even if you stay with one brand too.
There are companies that do crap work, I tried a "level 10" 2600 stall converter before going to a 2800 Edge and EVERY single thing about the Edge was better, it was lighter, it ran cooler, to drove better and was faster.
I scrapped the Level 10 when the tranny went out and I went to have the converter rebuilt and found out how bad the build quality was on it, like the hub was .1" off center that decimal is in the right place.
What do you have against them? Have you ran one, it let go on you and they wouldn't work something out with you? Or are you just a Yank nutswinger? Do you hate founders performance? Cause they are managing great making the same stuff as umi and bmr for a fraction of the cost...
I was just curious... I don't run a yank, circle D or vig, but um, ok?
Banned
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 207
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He was running our stage 3 for a couple of years and recently he purchased as stage 5. He went into the low 10's on a turbo LS setup...
Here is a link to the thread...
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...evmax-ftw.html
Here is a link to the thread...
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...evmax-ftw.html