Transmarrowbird94

Wow not bad

Valkyn

iTrader: (8)

Yeah the black parts are what I added. I did use stainless flanges on the headers and mild steel on the adaptors; just bought one kit (two flanges one clamp) of each kind.

I bought my flanges from racepartsolutions but the guy there was a total *****. They sent me one clamp that didnt even come close to fitting the flanges (it was too wide to get them to seal). I called and told them they sent me a clamp that wasnt right and he just argued with me saying he didn't carry the brand he sent me. Who is more likely to randomly have some odd ball v-band clamp...me, who only has two v-band clamps to his name, or them, who have a whole warehouse full of them.

I would suggesting finding somewhere else but 3.5" v-band flanges arent super common.

Casey96SS

Well I think I figured everything out to build a complete stainless Y/exhaust system with 3" V bands. Surprisingly the stainless piping actually isn't too much more expensive than mild steel from summit. My plan is to get everything mocked up and tacked together on the car and then have a friend TIG everything.

3.5" to 3" Stainless Reducers (Qty 2) $30
http://www.speedyracer.com/Downpipe-...ess-Steel-pipe

3" Stainless V Bands (Qty 3) $90

3" to 3" Y Transition (Qty 1) $30
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MPE-10798/

3" Stainless 180 Deg Bend (Qty 2) $90
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-622005-ss

3" X 4' Stainless Straight Pipe (Qty 1) $35
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/su...30-1/overview/

3" Stainless Cutout (Qty 1) $50
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/qtp-10300/overview/

ARP 3/8-16 X 1" Bolts $40
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-400-1110/

Valkyn

iTrader: (8)

Looks good man let us know how it turns out. I wish I would have known about those 3.5" to 3" stainless adaptors when I was building my setup! I looked all over and couldnt find any that werent super expensive.

Casey96SS

I finally managed to get my headers installed and Y pipe fabricated. I think the most difficult part through the whole process was removing and reinstalling the dip stick tube!

I am 100% pleased with the stepped OBX headers. They fit my car perfectly. The stock steering shaft clears and I had no other interference issues. Only very minor issue I had was that I had to slightly elongate the bolt hole behind the #1 primary to get the 1" ARP bolt angled through the hole. I had to lift the motor on the passenger side to get that header in from the bottom. Driver side slid in easily from the bottom with no engine lifting. No issues with plug or wire access with the headers on. I did have to switch to a shorter oil filter. 5/16" X Head x 1" ARP bolts with a 12pt 5/16" wrench work great holding the headers tight.

I ended up doing all the fab and welding on the Y pipe myself. It came out really good considering I only practiced welding twice before I started this. I used a Eastwood MIG 135 with C25 and .023" 308L SS wire for the welding. Cutting and fab was handled with $30 HF chop saw I got on craigslist and a 4" grinder. I used a stainless brush on the grinder to clean up the welds and pipe.

It didn't real get much louder running through the 2OTL which is good. It sounds a little deeper and has kind of a cool sound now. I like it! With the cutout open, it is really loud. Kind of cool at first but gets a little old. Should sound nice when I get the heads and cam in.

Definitely gained some HP. It revs a lot quicker now. It lays some nice patches into third gear which it never did before. I'll probably need some new tires for Christmas! LOL

Valkyn

iTrader: (8)

Looks good man props for doing it yourself!