Why is my oil pressure reading so high?!
05-07-2013, 09:08 PM
#21
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You should run a thinner oil for colder weather that way it flows better in cold weather & cold start-ups. If anyone should be running that thick of an oil your running it would be people like me in hot *** weather here in florida. even then 20w-50 isnt necessary. I use 10w-30.
05-07-2013, 09:17 PM
#22
Launching!
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05-08-2013, 06:50 AM
#27
Lucas oil stabilizer, zmax, royal purple, the tornado air thingy, the gadget man groove, fram oil filters, all just examples of how to market shitty products to idiots and make money. Bobistheoilguy has shown videos of the Lucas stuff foaming like crazy when it gets hot and thin, royal purple is just super thin oil so less resistance = more hp and more wear, zmax is just garbage, do more research of non biased testing (ie not done by the company selling it) on products before you go and dump stuff into your engine.
Side note: I used to really like powerblock when Stacy David did Trucks! and horsepowertv didn't just try to sell ****, now Stacy David does gears and is just pushing shitty products, horsepowertv uses cast eagle cranks, trucks sells programmers and k&n, the only real fabrication show is xtreme 4x4, and musclecar.
Side note: I used to really like powerblock when Stacy David did Trucks! and horsepowertv didn't just try to sell ****, now Stacy David does gears and is just pushing shitty products, horsepowertv uses cast eagle cranks, trucks sells programmers and k&n, the only real fabrication show is xtreme 4x4, and musclecar.
05-08-2013, 09:42 AM
#29
You might want to do some homework. Royal Purple has many oils. Many racers and engine builders use their products with great success. They do make very thin oil for when you need it, like actual racers running for class wins, heads-up pairings where there is no break out, and setting records. I don't know of anybody running the very thin oil all the time. My ring seal (and power) has improved since seating the rings & breaking my engine in with their break in oil. I would never lump them in the same catagory with oil additives.
Reading **** on the internet does not make you an expert.
Reading **** on the internet does not make you an expert.
05-08-2013, 10:15 AM
#30
Launching!
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I had a Fram oil filter completely disassemble itself and run through my engine while running Royal Purple oil. In my ignorance I thought the Fram might actually last one effing autocross. Well it didn't. Needless to say I won't be using any more "free" oil filters. I quit using both Fram and Royal Purple just to be safe, though I ran Royal Purple in the dragbike for years without a problem, cam bearings looked great every time (bottom end is ball/roller bearings)
Since then I have stuck to Brad Penn for flat tappet motors and Mobil 1 for roller motors always with NAPA filters (fairly certain that Wix makes them). Never had an issue and I take my 350" 9000+ RPM and the 383 in the autocross car 7500.
Since then I have stuck to Brad Penn for flat tappet motors and Mobil 1 for roller motors always with NAPA filters (fairly certain that Wix makes them). Never had an issue and I take my 350" 9000+ RPM and the 383 in the autocross car 7500.
05-08-2013, 10:26 AM
#31
I quit using Fram filters many years ago. I use NAPA filters, and yes, they are made by Wix. I tried Joe Gibbs oil for a while. Too much crap falls out of suspension, handfuls of black Teflon-like crap, and the coating started coming off my piston skirts. I don't use that anymore. Went back to Royal Purple. Also used Mobile1, had to add Comp Cams break-in additive to stop burning ends off intake pushrods on start-ups. Went to Royal Purple and have had zero issues since. Don't give a **** what bobtheoilguy thinks. I try to live in the real world, and base my data off what I actually see, along with the other guys I race with whose opinions I respect. I'm not the only guy that had the Joe Gibbs experience, although many others swear by it.
05-08-2013, 10:30 AM
#32
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That's awesome to know Ed. I probably don't have quite as much valvespring as you. I've never experienced the pushrod end issue.
Was it at the lifter end or the rocker end? Just curious.
Was it at the lifter end or the rocker end? Just curious.
05-08-2013, 10:35 AM
#33
Before this crazy (but faster <G>) valve train stuff I used Mobil1. I use it in everything else I own.
05-08-2013, 10:44 AM
#34
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05-08-2013, 10:50 AM
#35
I'm referring to royal purple $10 a quart 5w-30 in a street engine, I wiped out a rod bearing in an otherwise healthy lt1 with only 130k on it after using rp for 15k miles. Yes there are situations like record breaking and racing with a hp/ci ratio of 1.25:1 or less that I would use it for just the race, but for the average street car, I won't touch it. Above 1.25:1 you need higher zinc content anyways so off the shelf rp is out regardless. The tests they did on trucks! with a 4x4 ram 5.2 auto to see how much hp increase they would get by switching all fluids (engine, trans, transfer case, diffs) to rp showed a gain of 5-10hp, but the baseline tests were on dirty old conventional, not another new synthetic. I'm sure if they did the same test with any other synthetic the results would have been very similar.
Last edited by bufmatmuslepants; 05-08-2013 at 10:57 AM.
05-08-2013, 11:17 AM
#36
I'm referring to royal purple $10 a quart 5w-30 in a street engine, I wiped out a rod bearing in an otherwise healthy lt1 with only 130k on it after using rp for 15k miles. Yes there are situations like record breaking and racing with a hp/ci ratio of 1.25:1 or less that I would use it for just the race, but for the average street car, I won't touch it. Above 1.25:1 you need higher zinc content anyways so off the shelf rp is out regardless. The tests they did on trucks! with a 4x4 ram 5.2 auto to see how much hp increase they would get by switching all fluids (engine, trans, transfer case, diffs) to rp showed a gain of 5-10hp, but the baseline tests were on dirty old conventional, not another new synthetic. I'm sure if they did the same test with any other synthetic the results would have been very similar.
05-14-2013, 06:03 PM
#37
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Hooked up the mechanical gauge today. It read true to my dash. 60psi at idle. Mid 70's to 80 at basically any inclination in rev. Is that abnormally high? I think going to add some seafoam, and drive for 50 miles or so, then pour that crap out and run straight caster oil 5w-30 with no additives... Then see what reading i get. I've been getting the $13 K&N oil filters from autozone for my cars, is that a good one to run? What would u all suggest if not?
