motor mounts
The contacts on both the cap and rotor pit and burn, from the electrical discharge across them...it's similar to the "old fashioned" caps and rotor used, when cars had points in the distributor.
The optical sensor will last if vented properly and doesn't get wet, the cap and rotor are a wear item just like anything else. Honestly the aftermarket ones were more expensive and not as good as my stock one. A well maintained LT1 ignition will see it performing year after year.
Last edited by fex77k; May 20, 2013 at 08:12 PM.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
So I started the motor mount change today. I finished the passenger side but I had to cut the tabs off of the mount (prothane) because they didn't allow clearance for the part of the mount that connects to the engine block. Anyways, my old mount was cracked and very shrunken upon inspection.
I have to do the drivers side tomorrow. Any tips for the driver side?
I have to do the drivers side tomorrow. Any tips for the driver side?
If you have long tube headers you'll have to unbolt the bracket off the block in order to have enough room to maneuver the mount into place. The collector will hit the floorboard and there will not be any room otherwise. Very straight forward. I took the advice of everyone who did this and started all bolts on the mount (as well as the bracket in this case), left them loose and then easily stabbed the bolt through the mount. Completely tightened the mount onto the k-member, and then snugged the bolts on the bracket and then took the jack out from underneath. Then tightened the bracket bolts up.
If you don't have LT headers then you should have enough clearance to jack the motor high enough to slip the mount into place. I had to cut away some of the mount on the corners of the mounts for the top two bolts because the bolt flanges are a wide. No big deal.
I'm not sure what you mean by cutting off the tab on the drivers mount. A little afraid to ask...
If you don't have LT headers then you should have enough clearance to jack the motor high enough to slip the mount into place. I had to cut away some of the mount on the corners of the mounts for the top two bolts because the bolt flanges are a wide. No big deal.
I'm not sure what you mean by cutting off the tab on the drivers mount. A little afraid to ask...
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 55
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on the passenger side prothane mount I cut off the tabs that stick out from the mount along where the long bolt goes through.
We couldn't get the metal part that connects to the block to line up with the center of the prothane mount whether we did it off the car or on it. it only seems to fit without those tabs. also, they weren't wide enough to even hold the top part that connects to the block.
I haven't started the car yet and the engine seems stable on the passenger mount. Do you think I should get a different brand mount and try it or just go through with what I have now?
I read on someone else's forum post that the tabs could be removed, but then again that is just some guy on the Internet.
on to the drivers side...
I removed all of the bolts from the block except the one that is tight against the collector (stock manifolds). how am I supposed to remove that one? I am afraid to remove the collector pipe because it is pretty rusty and I don't want any studs to break.
We couldn't get the metal part that connects to the block to line up with the center of the prothane mount whether we did it off the car or on it. it only seems to fit without those tabs. also, they weren't wide enough to even hold the top part that connects to the block.
I haven't started the car yet and the engine seems stable on the passenger mount. Do you think I should get a different brand mount and try it or just go through with what I have now?
I read on someone else's forum post that the tabs could be removed, but then again that is just some guy on the Internet.
on to the drivers side...
I removed all of the bolts from the block except the one that is tight against the collector (stock manifolds). how am I supposed to remove that one? I am afraid to remove the collector pipe because it is pretty rusty and I don't want any studs to break.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
That is what I mean. It looks as if it is resting on the brass tabs but they aren't actually there. I cut those off and the engine seems to be fine. I have NOT started it yet though. What do you think?
Whole lot of wrong going on including me. The instructions I gave were for the passenger side. Not drivers. My apologies. Misread what you typed. The drivers side is actually easier just by taking the mount bolt out, jacking motor up and unbolting bracket/plate from the engine.
Now for your wrong doing...
You should have never cut those tabs. They are there to support and displace the majority of the weight of the engine through the mount. The next issue is you have the wrong mount on the passenger side. That is the drivers mount. Here is what the passenger side is supposed to look like:
And here is the drivers:
Now for your wrong doing...
You should have never cut those tabs. They are there to support and displace the majority of the weight of the engine through the mount. The next issue is you have the wrong mount on the passenger side. That is the drivers mount. Here is what the passenger side is supposed to look like:
And here is the drivers:
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Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 55
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wow....... I feel like a dumbass. the mount I removed looked exactly like the one that is in there now.... hmmm.
well I guess I'm going to pick up energy suspension mounts from autozone now. I'm sorry, this is why I ask questions! thanks so much for not being rude about it.
well I guess I'm going to pick up energy suspension mounts from autozone now. I'm sorry, this is why I ask questions! thanks so much for not being rude about it.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
Well I don't really have a choice considering I cut the tabs off of my prothane mount and my old mount is cracked all over. Unless you know where I can get stock mounts for under $100, I have to go with energy suspenion or prothane.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
I just finished putting the proper mount in the passenger side. I left the driver side alone and it drives really nicely. No more harsh vibrations at idle and less clunking when shifting. I'm pretty pleased so far.
I ordered a mount for the driver side and I will be replacing it in the future.
I ordered a mount for the driver side and I will be replacing it in the future.
I truly don't see all the fuss over the poly mounts. I have them in my car, and have no issues. The obvious question, "Why did I do it"...Well like the OP, my OE rubber mounts were looking somewhat dried and beginning to show some stress cracks, so while it was off the road for the winter, a couple of years ago, I opened up the clamshells and slapped a pair of the Energy Suspension inserts in there....
Maybe climate plays into this?
I put fresh rubber in my car mostly because I had the front suspension apart enough to access the bolts that are inside the front crossmember on the b-body. I had had some headers hit the frame but it was cheap mediocre design headers that just needed more hammering. I did that with probably 165K miles on it, stockers seemed OK yet.
I would say that it's definitely a possibility. While I keep my car off the road during the winter, so it doesn't see the ravages of road salt, it does sit in an unheated garage, where the temps frequently drop below zero. And in the summer, at the opposite side of the spectrum, the temps here can easily hit 90*, and on top of that, the exhaust system is close to the rubber mounts. So I think the motor mounts live in a fairly harsh environment.
Mine were about 5 years old. Replaced them with the new engine, but in ripping the trans out quite a few times over the years I think that took its toll on them. Drivers header started rubbing on the heat shielding on the brake lines as well as the y-pipe banging when it never used to. Now that they've been replaced with poly I doubt I'll ever have to worry about that again.
I would say that it's definitely a possibility. While I keep my car off the road during the winter, so it doesn't see the ravages of road salt, it does sit in an unheated garage, where the temps frequently drop below zero. And in the summer, at the opposite side of the spectrum, the temps here can easily hit 90*, and on top of that, the exhaust system is close to the rubber mounts. So I think the motor mounts live in a fairly harsh environment.
