97z28K&N

any advice on changing them? Where and how should I jack the engine? Thanks.

DisasterFormula

iTrader: (1)

The bellhousing seems to be a popular jacking point. There's a write up or two on here regarding the procedure, I believe. I would recommend changing your transmission mount at the same time, too.

97z28K&N

Thanks for the quick response! I am planning on changing engine and transmission mounts together.

DisasterFormula

iTrader: (1)

No problem. Take what I said with a grain of salt since, though, since I haven't done mounts myself.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

why are you replacing them?

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

I put a short 2x4 piece of wood on the pad of my floor jack, and CAREFULLY lift against the oil pan. Remember, I said CAREFULLY...

Ed Wright

iTrader: (1)

Probably read on the Internet that poly mounts are faster. Lmao

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

You can jack up the engine using the oil pan. Just use a 2x4 that extends past the sides of the pan to displace the weight. If it's a Canton 242t pan then place the 2x4 front to back instead of side to side.
Get some quality drill bits to drill out the rivets. Use wd-40 on the bits as you're drilling. Makes quick work of them. Make sure to place the new mounts in the same position with the outside tabs in the same location before placing back onto the engine/k-member.
But yeah, what's the reason for wanting to replace?

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

basically why I was asking, the amount of useless **** guys are told to spend money on is unbelievable and then they "save" money on the important stuff. See it every day where they spend $1500 on things that don't matter and then "save" $200 when they could have made a big difference.

KFtransam

^hah

AIRRR FOILLL and HIGH VOLUME PUMP!

60+ rwhp gains right there baby

97z28K&N

Thanks for making false assumptions. I am replacing my mounts because my car has 150k miles and a lot of engine vibration. I am not looking for horsepower. At idle, my car feels like a 70's muscle car and I'm just trying to correct the problem. I didn't come here so you all could put in your opinions. Don't assume everyone is an idiot.

Rubber mounts will be used, not POLY....

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

I wouldn't expect mounts to fix that..............

97z28K&N

The engine moves more than what the service manual specifies when going from park to drive. What do you expect to fix that?............................................. .......................

KFtransam

Noone here is directly picking on you. Past experiences prove that a lot of people do a lot of mods that they believe to net huge gains when in reality it doesn't.

I.e. Polly mounts, air foils, ect..

Hope all goes well with your mounts and apologies if things were misunderstood.

97z28K&N

How do you expect to have new members join and ask questions if you guys do that ****?

fex77k

iTrader: (2)

If you have an LT1 you might be already a bit crazy in the head. It's just the internet, and that's just what they do.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

If the engine rocks a lot from park to drive then the mounts may well be tired BUT if a stock engine vibrates enough at idle to be bothersome I think there is something else going on. For instance most people fail to consider a distributor cap and rotor when doing a tuneup on one of these, or plug wire routing is a nightmare and often done poorly, or ERG or AIR system problems causing a vacuum leak. Hell an over oiled K&N filter getting oil on the MAF could even be the culprit

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

far as treatment of new folks, you know how many of them come here with all the wrong ideas and only want to be told exactly how to pursue those bad ideas and how good those bad ideas are???? most of them.

97z28K&N

You are right, I understand where you are coming from. Since you mentioned cap and rotor, would there be any other symptoms than what you are describing? I don't have any codes thrown and I have never noticed any hesitation or anything like that. I believe the distributor and cap& rotor are all stock.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

stock is good for cap and rotor, ORIGINAL would not be, if that is the case.

The LT1 and opti get a bad rap because idiots treat the cap and rotor as life of the vehicle parts when in reality they should be considered tuneup items like every other distributor ever put on any other car. Many choose to just put a whole new "opti" on which is the whole ditributor, but really it is just like any other distributor and the cap and rotor wear out like any other.