Valve lash on dry lifters
Valve lash on dry lifters So I'm changing the valve seals on a lt1 that sat inside the shop for 5 years. When I reset the valve lash (hyd) lifters, Will they have drained the all the oil out? I was planning on doing it while it's on the engine stand... The intake is still on, so I can't really soak the lifters in oil...
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Joined: Dec 2008
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From: Little Rock, AR
Since you set lash when the valve is not open, the lifter should not be compressed. There is a spring in it that will keep it extended. You should be able to set lash. Just make sure you set it and go on to the next one. Don't always expect the ones you already did to seem perfectly ok as you go along. You might be able to get by until the engine is started. It might turn out fine. Worth a try, since they at least had oil in them in the past (and may still have enough).
Since you set lash when the valve is not open, the lifter should not be compressed. There is a spring in it that will keep it extended. You should be able to set lash. Just make sure you set it and go on to the next one. Don't always expect the ones you already did to seem perfectly ok as you go along. You might be able to get by until the engine is started. It might turn out fine. Worth a try, since they at least had oil in them in the past (and may still have enough).
TECH Veteran
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 4,147
Likes: 62
From: Little Rock, AR
Some extra lube will hurt nothing as long as you don't overfill. Pour some on top of your valvetrain.
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Ok will do....it's all fairly dry. Wish I could prime the motor without pulling the intake. So chances are if I set them without it running, I'm going to have to run the motor and reset them again...right
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Joined: Jan 2013
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From: Las Vegas
Try and push in the cup for yourself. I read this all the time where someone suspects the lifter cup might collapse and ruin the adjustment. So i went out to the garage and tried to push in a lifter cup with a p-rod under a block of wood using a lifter that had been sitting for over 2 years. I even turned the lifter upside down and pushed the p-rod with lifter on top on a 2x4 with all my weight (almost a ton) and all it did was make a dent in the wood. Tried it with a couple of lifters - no that cup didn't move.
So if u have lifters u can try this for yourself and prove me wrong. But i think this is a myth that the lifter cup will get pushed or drop out before u find zero lash.
cardo
So if u have lifters u can try this for yourself and prove me wrong. But i think this is a myth that the lifter cup will get pushed or drop out before u find zero lash.
cardo
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From: Las Vegas
Wow.....
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From: Las Vegas
The lifter pair u are setting have to be on the base circle of the cam - u have to be certain of this other wise u are wasting your time. U can identify the lifters are on base circle by looking at rocker arms and knowing which pair of valves/lifters are fully shut (base circle) and which pair of valves/lifters are partially open in overlap for the pair of pistons that reach TDC at the same time. If u don't uderstand this u need to keep reading until u do - maybe draw diagrams until u do.
Hope this helps,
cardo
The lifter pair u are setting have to be on the base circle of the cam - u have to be certain of this other wise u are wasting your time. U can identify the lifters are on base circle by looking at rocker arms and knowing which pair of valves/lifters are fully shut (base circle) and which pair of valves/lifters are partially open in overlap for the pair of pistons that reach TDC at the same time. If u don't uderstand this u need to keep reading until u do - maybe draw diagrams until u do.
Hope this helps,
cardo
Hope this helps,
cardo
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Joined: Jan 2013
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From: Las Vegas
I keep reading what you've posted and I still don't understand what it is you are spraying. What does any of this have to do with what he said? He's talking about not setting the valves too tight after zero lash is found. If you are attempting to explain how to find the base circle, why not supply some resources...
cardo
