What Oil is best to use
05-13-2013, 04:18 PM
#21
Thanks guys for the opinions and to the last guy who asked about why is my compression so low thats about where u would want this engine why do u think it should have a different compression?? 383 stroker afr heads eagle crank je pistons what should be the compression ??
05-13-2013, 04:35 PM
#22
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OIl and compression!! so the car is made for the street , so are u saying 10:8 to 1 is bad for it and if so what do i need to do this my go around with motors or cars in general for the matter
05-13-2013, 04:58 PM
#23
If you change cams in a stock 350" most knowledgable guys put more compression in them as well to get some cylinder pressure back. Most common way I know of is the thinner Caprice/Impala SS head gaskets. If you have much cam in it at all you want to well into the elevens. Many bigger cam guys are running compression ratios into the low 12s.
05-13-2013, 05:30 PM
#24
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If RP is Royal Purple, I don't know who's posts you read. But many professional racers and engine builders swear by it, and use it in everything they own. I have seen a couple on this message board blame their engine failures on oil, but that is plain stupid. Some can't accept responsibility for their own inabilities. If you have a clue as to what you are doing, any oil will be OK. "M1" is fine also.
Anybody that pops an engine and blames the oil should just be ignored.
Anybody that pops an engine and blames the oil should just be ignored.
Yes Ed, I was referring to "Royal Purple". I made sure to say I DON'T have experience using "RP" oil. I did not want people to think I have personally had issues with that oil. But, for me, I have seen more than enough post saying that it got "sludgy" in other peoples oil pans to keep me from ever trying it. I don't know what caused the sludge issues that I have read about, but I DON'T want to find out for myself. It's just not worth the risk when there are plenty of alternative options out there that are proven to work just fine for "my" application.
05-13-2013, 05:37 PM
#25
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Yes Ed, I was referring to "Royal Purple". I made sure to say I DON'T have experience using "RP" oil. I did not want people to think I have personally had issues with that oil. But, for me, I have seen more than enough post saying that it got "sludgy" in other peoples oil pans to keep me from ever trying it. I don't know what caused the sludge issues that I have read about, but I DON'T want to find out for myself. It's just not worth the risk when there are plenty of alternative options out there that are proven to work just fine for "my" application.
05-13-2013, 05:42 PM
#26
Myself and many racers I run with have used Royal Purple for years, and have never heard of or saw any sludge. Have seen stuff fall out of suspension with Joe Gibbs. "RP" is what several have gone to so we could avoid that. I actually do have years of experience with it in mine, as well as other racers I run with.
05-13-2013, 06:02 PM
#27
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Myself and many racers I run with have used Royal Purple for years, and have never heard of or saw any sludge. Have seen stuff fall out of suspension with Joe Gibbs. "RP" is what several have gone to so we could avoid that. I actually do have years of experience with it in mine, as well as other racers I run with.
Used RP once in the AutoX car with a Fram filter and the oil coagulated so much it wouldn't pour from the drain plug. The oil filter medium (cellulose) was completely gone from inside the filter and was running through the engine. Again, I blame the filter, not the oil but I didn't take a chance on it either.
05-13-2013, 06:35 PM
#29
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Yes Ed, I was referring to "Royal Purple". I made sure to say I DON'T have experience using "RP" oil. I did not want people to think I have personally had issues with that oil. But, for me, I have seen more than enough post saying that it got "sludgy" in other peoples oil pans to keep me from ever trying it. I don't know what caused the sludge issues that I have read about, but I DON'T want to find out for myself. It's just not worth the risk when there are plenty of alternative options out there that are proven to work just fine for "my" application.
05-13-2013, 08:23 PM
#31
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05-13-2013, 08:59 PM
#33
stock compression for the LT4 was 10.8, and NA built LT1 should be at least 11.5 even for the street. Hell most heads/cam stock shortblock cars manage over 11:1.
Far as oils, what works on the track and what lasts on the street can be two very different things, and Used Oil Analysis is the only real MEASURE we have and about nobody here is referencing it, BITOG lives on it though. That said just about anything SAE rated will do the trick but if you are going to try and do what is "best" why not spend the $20 on analysis or at least see what those who have spent the money have found rather than blindly following the marketing influenced crowds.
Far as oils, what works on the track and what lasts on the street can be two very different things, and Used Oil Analysis is the only real MEASURE we have and about nobody here is referencing it, BITOG lives on it though. That said just about anything SAE rated will do the trick but if you are going to try and do what is "best" why not spend the $20 on analysis or at least see what those who have spent the money have found rather than blindly following the marketing influenced crowds.
05-13-2013, 09:25 PM
#34
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EXACTLY! 1997 350 Chevy Silverado 250k miles..NEVER BEEN OPENED! Oil Pressure is still 20 psi hot idle, 60psi cold idle..I use only Wix or Purolater filters, change the oil every couple mo. to WHATEVER name brand is on sale.
Used Rotella T in the Z28 and liked it, running Vavoline Syn since the LS6 swap, no issues.
Used Rotella T in the Z28 and liked it, running Vavoline Syn since the LS6 swap, no issues.
05-13-2013, 09:49 PM
#35
stock compression for the LT4 was 10.8, and NA built LT1 should be at least 11.5 even for the street. Hell most heads/cam stock shortblock cars manage over 11:1.
Far as oils, what works on the track and what lasts on the street can be two very different things, and Used Oil Analysis is the only real MEASURE we have and about nobody here is referencing it, BITOG lives on it though. That said just about anything SAE rated will do the trick but if you are going to try and do what is "best" why not spend the $20 on analysis or at least see what those who have spent the money have found rather than blindly following the marketing influenced crowds.
Far as oils, what works on the track and what lasts on the street can be two very different things, and Used Oil Analysis is the only real MEASURE we have and about nobody here is referencing it, BITOG lives on it though. That said just about anything SAE rated will do the trick but if you are going to try and do what is "best" why not spend the $20 on analysis or at least see what those who have spent the money have found rather than blindly following the marketing influenced crowds.
05-13-2013, 10:38 PM
#36
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Showing my age! I can remember those commercials in the 80's when synthetic oils were getting popular, they would apply pressure to a spinning metal wheel and while looking at a pressure gauge it was obvious the synthetic oil was far superior since the metal wheel didn't want to stop spinning with a ton of pressure on it, the conventional oil would start smoking and the wheel would stop! They should bring those commercials back!
anyway, find a good synthetic oil and FILTER that you can find local and can afford and keep using and changing it, religiously. I kept using Mobil 1 since my car's previous owner used it, but I've switched to Royal Purple, so far so good.
anyway, find a good synthetic oil and FILTER that you can find local and can afford and keep using and changing it, religiously. I kept using Mobil 1 since my car's previous owner used it, but I've switched to Royal Purple, so far so good.
05-14-2013, 08:24 AM
#38
I really don't care what "BITOG" thinks about anything. I know what makes my bearings live best, ring seal last longer, lifter bores, lifter bearings, and pushrods live best. Also make the most power, that would be what was called "Race9". The latter in mine is a flat 12 hp at the crank. I don't run that one all the time, just when needed. 5W20 is the norm for me.
Mobil1 in all my street vehicles, except for my Cummins powered towing motor home. It gets Rotella. My wife's Lexus just turned oner 198,000 with zero issues, zero consumption, and always clean filters. Ditto my 126,000 454" '99 Suburban, and my 77,000 mile LS1 Trans Am. I always cut my filters apart to inspect for metal or other tattle tale signs of problems.
If you cut a Fram filter apart, then cut a NAPA (Wix) apart, you won't likely buy another Fram. Very cheesy enoughtogetby construction. I have seen the media come apart. I don't need "BITOG" to tell me what to use.
My experiences and opinion only.
Mobil1 in all my street vehicles, except for my Cummins powered towing motor home. It gets Rotella. My wife's Lexus just turned oner 198,000 with zero issues, zero consumption, and always clean filters. Ditto my 126,000 454" '99 Suburban, and my 77,000 mile LS1 Trans Am. I always cut my filters apart to inspect for metal or other tattle tale signs of problems.
If you cut a Fram filter apart, then cut a NAPA (Wix) apart, you won't likely buy another Fram. Very cheesy enoughtogetby construction. I have seen the media come apart. I don't need "BITOG" to tell me what to use.
My experiences and opinion only.
05-14-2013, 08:57 AM
#39
Royal Purple and Brad penn. Royal purple and Brad penn have higher zinc/phosphorus levels that most major oil companies are removing or bringing the levels way down. You can run any oil you want but add a quart or 2 of Brad Penn and your rings and bearings will love you. They are dropping the levels to "Save the Planet". Even mobile one has Q&A on the subject and has started making high performance mobile one for performance & older engines. http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...otor_Oils.aspx
05-14-2013, 09:04 AM
#40
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Is this a street car?...Race car?
If it is street I would use this stuff...HR-4 From Joe Gibbs.
I use the LS30 in my C5 vette.
http://www.drivenracingoil.com/dro/l...tic-5w-30.html