LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

My 355 Build

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Old 05-26-2013, 07:07 AM
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Originally Posted by wysemunky
heres a link to the pistons. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/slp-h617cp. I ran the numbers and with stock deck height, .049 head gasket and 56cc combustion chamber I got 13.31:1. With a 52cc chamber and .029 gasket it was 15.32:1
I'm thinking of either:

Running a thicker head gasket to lower compression because I have a 54cc chamber size

Opening up my chambers more (least favorable option)

Fly cutting the domes down a couple cc's

I think looking at thicker gaskets I got anywhere from 12.7-13.1:1
Old 06-06-2013, 07:54 AM
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Bump it up!

I bought some suspension parts, like lca's, a phb, and a strut tower brace, etc.

What suspension parts do I really need? This will be a straight line car, so I'm thinking of taking my sway bars off for weight loss. Please give me ideas guys!
Old 06-06-2013, 01:50 PM
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Running a thicker head gasket to lower compression is a bad idea. You want to keep your quench in the .040" range.

If I were you, I'd buy different pistons. Those domed pistons are going to kill you with compression. I'd feel a ton better running a forged piston instead of those hypers anyway.
Old 06-06-2013, 08:31 PM
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On a straight line car you want to keep the rear sway bar, but you can lose the front for less weight and it allows better weight transfer. Then all you really need is LCA relo brackets, shocks designed for weight transfer and a torque arm. the strut tower brace is going to do nothing but add weight
Old 06-06-2013, 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Dynamic396
Running a thicker head gasket to lower compression is a bad idea. You want to keep your quench in the .040" range.

If I were you, I'd buy different pistons. Those domed pistons are going to kill you with compression. I'd feel a ton better running a forged piston instead of those hypers anyway.
I'm thinking about it, but most of the people I've talked to have told me to work with the pistons that are on there. I'm going to flycut them and work on them from there....
Old 06-06-2013, 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by wysemunky
On a straight line car you want to keep the rear sway bar, but you can lose the front for less weight and it allows better weight transfer. Then all you really need is LCA relo brackets, shocks designed for weight transfer and a torque arm. the strut tower brace is going to do nothing but add weight
Okay, thank you! I'll take the front off while I'm in there, do I need a k member or a subframe connector? Just wondering.
Old 06-07-2013, 02:57 PM
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For front end weight reduction you'll want a tubular kmember, I went with a front end kit from UMI with upper and lower A-arms. It saved a lot of weight, subframe connectors I think will help keep the frame from twisting so they're always a good idea. As stated that strut tower brace really won't help going in a straight line. And a good shock/spring combo will do a lot of good for you.
Old 06-09-2013, 12:05 AM
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Ive heard the K members from anybody keep the car from driving and front end working like stock but a weight reduction for sure
Old 08-22-2013, 07:42 AM
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Hey guys! I finally got the engine together yesterday as it was my day off. As Ed had told me, everything worked and I have plenty of valve clearance (.330). I'll post pictures soon and sometime next week we should be doing the engine swap and getting this bad boy on the road! Thank you guys for answering all my questions all along!



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