My 355 Build
heres a link to the pistons. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/slp-h617cp. I ran the numbers and with stock deck height, .049 head gasket and 56cc combustion chamber I got 13.31:1. With a 52cc chamber and .029 gasket it was 15.32:1 
Running a thicker head gasket to lower compression because I have a 54cc chamber size
Opening up my chambers more (least favorable option)
Fly cutting the domes down a couple cc's
I think looking at thicker gaskets I got anywhere from 12.7-13.1:1
Bump it up!
I bought some suspension parts, like lca's, a phb, and a strut tower brace, etc.
What suspension parts do I really need? This will be a straight line car, so I'm thinking of taking my sway bars off for weight loss. Please give me ideas guys!
I bought some suspension parts, like lca's, a phb, and a strut tower brace, etc.
What suspension parts do I really need? This will be a straight line car, so I'm thinking of taking my sway bars off for weight loss. Please give me ideas guys!
On The Tree
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 189
Likes: 12
From: Newman Lake, WA
Running a thicker head gasket to lower compression is a bad idea. You want to keep your quench in the .040" range.
If I were you, I'd buy different pistons. Those domed pistons are going to kill you with compression. I'd feel a ton better running a forged piston instead of those hypers anyway.
If I were you, I'd buy different pistons. Those domed pistons are going to kill you with compression. I'd feel a ton better running a forged piston instead of those hypers anyway.
On a straight line car you want to keep the rear sway bar, but you can lose the front for less weight and it allows better weight transfer. Then all you really need is LCA relo brackets, shocks designed for weight transfer and a torque arm. the strut tower brace is going to do nothing but add weight
Running a thicker head gasket to lower compression is a bad idea. You want to keep your quench in the .040" range.
If I were you, I'd buy different pistons. Those domed pistons are going to kill you with compression. I'd feel a ton better running a forged piston instead of those hypers anyway.
If I were you, I'd buy different pistons. Those domed pistons are going to kill you with compression. I'd feel a ton better running a forged piston instead of those hypers anyway.
On a straight line car you want to keep the rear sway bar, but you can lose the front for less weight and it allows better weight transfer. Then all you really need is LCA relo brackets, shocks designed for weight transfer and a torque arm. the strut tower brace is going to do nothing but add weight
For front end weight reduction you'll want a tubular kmember, I went with a front end kit from UMI with upper and lower A-arms. It saved a lot of weight, subframe connectors I think will help keep the frame from twisting so they're always a good idea. As stated that strut tower brace really won't help going in a straight line. And a good shock/spring combo will do a lot of good for you.
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Verdad Gallardo Hey guys! I finally got the engine together yesterday as it was my day off. As Ed had told me, everything worked and I have plenty of valve clearance (.330). I'll post pictures soon and sometime next week we should be doing the engine swap and getting this bad boy on the road! Thank you guys for answering all my questions all along!
