B-Body LT1
#21
Much more suitable for a 4300LB Caprice with a 300+ HP engine !!
Oh.....BTW.....get a B-body, dual exhaust system. The single exhaust from the L99 won't cut it! Maybe.....you can get that from your buddy as well????
Best of luck!
KW
#22
.......So your Caprice came with a L99 engine? UNLESS it's a 9C1, you have a 7 1/2" rear! If it's not too late to do so.....pull the entire rear axle from your buddy's 9C1; it'll be a 8 1/2" rear.
Much more suitable for a 4300LB Caprice with a 300+ HP engine !!
Oh.....BTW.....get a B-body, dual exhaust system. The single exhaust from the L99 won't cut it! Maybe.....you can get that from your buddy as well????
Best of luck!
KW
Much more suitable for a 4300LB Caprice with a 300+ HP engine !!
Oh.....BTW.....get a B-body, dual exhaust system. The single exhaust from the L99 won't cut it! Maybe.....you can get that from your buddy as well????
Best of luck!
KW
KW
#23
If doing a cam always have headers first or with the cam installation. those two mods need each other. Now a stall is the hands down best mod for an auto and even better for a heavy car. I would be trying to get a set of aluminium heads for the car. Increased compression ability does help not only power but a little bit fuel mileage as well. Now just get a spot on tune and let her rip for a little bit to see where/if you want to do anything later. Just my .02
#24
I did the ZZ4 cam with stock manifolds, stock stall and stock gears and it ran a blistering 14.9. By the time I was done with 3.42s, 2800 stall and some midlenght headers it ran 13.2.
Reread that that is a very mild amount of stall and gear and a very mild cam and the gains from the supporting mods were huge.
Reread that that is a very mild amount of stall and gear and a very mild cam and the gains from the supporting mods were huge.
#25
I have been looking at cams and I cannot decide which cam to go with. I was thinking cc502 and then i saw that the cc502 is the same price as the cc503. Then i learned about the XFI466 and due to it's 113LSA its a smoother idle. I want to have a relatively smooth idle as this car is a DD. I have a 503 in my Vette before my custom cam and it ram good but a little choppy. Not sure about the cc502 in comparison. I might end up doing a cheap pair of direct bolt up shorty headers to remedy the exhaust issue but I'm not sure yet. Still trying to pick a cam that will be torquey and fun on the streets. Not going for a high RPM motor just a stoplight machine with the occasional run at the 1/4. Mainly I'm looking for a moderate bump in torque while keeping the idle as smooth as possible. Seems to be tough to do. The XFI466 seems to be the best for smooth idle but I guess you really have to beef up your valvetrain to handle it. Any suggestions?
#26
I did the ZZ4 cam with stock manifolds, stock stall and stock gears and it ran a blistering 14.9. By the time I was done with 3.42s, 2800 stall and some midlenght headers it ran 13.2.
Reread that that is a very mild amount of stall and gear and a very mild cam and the gains from the supporting mods were huge.
Reread that that is a very mild amount of stall and gear and a very mild cam and the gains from the supporting mods were huge.
#27
The 9C1 had slightly better gears than my car 3.08 instead of 2.93, my car was decently equipped so maybe a little heavier and the 14.9 was not anything great weather wise.
14.6 is perfectly reasonable for those mods.
But basically you just supported what I was saying, even a mild cam needs the supporting mods.
Be careful, the iron LT1 heads are pretty lift limited, don't thin k I have seen any hard numbers but by .530lift you are going to want to be checking retainer clearance. Probably looking at 1.5s to keep the XFI that low.
I would not worry about screwin studs so long as you use beehives. Using beehives means less pressure which is easier on the studs and a whole lot cheaper than messing around with machining for pressed.
14.6 is perfectly reasonable for those mods.
But basically you just supported what I was saying, even a mild cam needs the supporting mods.
Be careful, the iron LT1 heads are pretty lift limited, don't thin k I have seen any hard numbers but by .530lift you are going to want to be checking retainer clearance. Probably looking at 1.5s to keep the XFI that low.
I would not worry about screwin studs so long as you use beehives. Using beehives means less pressure which is easier on the studs and a whole lot cheaper than messing around with machining for pressed.
#28
I like the xfi cams for an off the shelf option. I second the beehive suggestion. Some people don't like them but the truth is that beehive springs have lots of good hards miles on well running machines. If you have to run 1.5 rockers to keep lift down so be it until you have the time to get different heads on the car.
#29
My buddy has a set of valve springs he got with his heads that are basically new that were running a cc502 so i will be using those. I chose the cc502 for this LT. Looking for more drivability than max hp. Also I still feel like i want to run manifolds. I know everybody hates on them but I like the ease of installation. Plus the cost savings and I want this car to be kind of quiet not a eardrum destroyer. haha With a cc502 without headers how much power do you think I will honestly be missing out on? I know headers help some cars but some manifolds are not that bad. What do you guys think? Also the car will be getting a mail order tune like I did on my other LTx.
#30
My car was louder with manifolds than headers, same exhaust, header/manifold back. I just don't see why someone wouldn't want headers.... Easy plug changes, more performance, bolt on.
v8vette84 you should stop your terrible kind of thinking.... Many people have done your way of thinking and have always regretted it. Yet you still want to do it wrong. Do be blindly stupid. take these peoples advice.
v8vette84 you should stop your terrible kind of thinking.... Many people have done your way of thinking and have always regretted it. Yet you still want to do it wrong. Do be blindly stupid. take these peoples advice.
#31
Just asking because B-body vs F-body is like apples vs oranges.
Depending on the shorty header options, you could be missing out on 10-20 HP at the wheels.
For mid-length (Tri-Y's), add another 10-15 HP over the best shorties.
For the long-tubes, add maybe 5 HP over the Tri-Y's.....but all gains would be above 5K RPMs....the long-tubes would produce less torque under 4K RPMs.
On the street, the 502 cam would really work best, far and away, with Tri-Y headers. It just ain't got the legs to take advantage of long-tube headers.
KW
#32
I found a bolt-up stainless set made by OBX on ebay for $350. The ad calls them mid length. I don't really want to spend money on the headers as I said before I'm going for quiet vs loud. I've never seen a car with headers be quieter than a manifold car. I used OBX long tubes on my Corvette and they bolted right up and looked really nice. Built very well for a cheap stainless knockoff header.
#33
My car was louder with manifolds than headers, same exhaust, header/manifold back. I just don't see why someone wouldn't want headers.... Easy plug changes, more performance, bolt on.
v8vette84 you should stop your terrible kind of thinking.... Many people have done your way of thinking and have always regretted it. Yet you still want to do it wrong. Do be blindly stupid. take these peoples advice.
v8vette84 you should stop your terrible kind of thinking.... Many people have done your way of thinking and have always regretted it. Yet you still want to do it wrong. Do be blindly stupid. take these peoples advice.