I came across a schematic a couple years ago, but I searched for an hour or so and can't come up with anything.

Can anyone help?

 

How much wiring do you want to do? Here is a start.

 

I haven't heard of using the air pump relay but I found mine under the relay box, was disconnected, air pump was totally removed, saved me the trouble. I bought a $25.00 EWP relay kit off ebay (nice kit with relay, relay socket, fuse and wiring). I soldered the trigger right into the ignition wire from bottom of relay box, wired the hot wire onto 12v terminal by the relay boxes, and placed ground wire to the chassis. I mounted the relay and it's fuse right by the relay boxes too. Super clean and easy. Only thing I did wrong was dripped solder onto my front bumper by the headlight - left a mark, dang

 

I had it wired up with just a relay and a hot wire from the passenger side power block, but I wanted to wire it into the AIR Pump to eliminate the extra wire going to the passenger side.

I guess I will just rewire it the way it was before, but clean it up a little bit.

 

Mine was wired into the fuse box, wires were ran in front and underneath the top core support. Relay was hidden behind the core support on the passenger side.

 

Large Brown wire is battery feed from fuse #7 fed from fusible links.

Large Red wire is power to pump. This goes to your waterpump.

Small Brown wire is pcm controlled ground. This you have to permanently ground.

Small brown wire that is tied into the large Brown wire is the power to the coil side of relay. This you cut and tap into an ignition/engine run hot so the relay is energized when key is on and motor is running thus powering your pump. This allows you to turn key on and bleed cooling system which impresses teh ladies.

General outline, its simple, do it.

 

I'm by no means an expert in this, I would think that it wouldent work and here's why:
If your using the air pump relay, as far as I know that relay is only energized when the PCM calls for the air pump which I believe is only on start up.
So that being said I think the relay would de-energize and the contacts would drop out leaving the circuit your waterpump is fed from de-energized.
Now I am not sure if that is how the circuit functions but Its just something to be aware of
Hope it works though!
Now if you tap off the source side of the relay that should have constant power but again, I'd have to see a print to be sure.

 

Hurray for reading.

Its fun

 

If wiring is not your strongpoint then definitely use one of these with the relay:


Saves a lot of hassle.

 

Good call

 

This worked for me. Wasn't hard to install.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/40-Amp-Electric-Water-Pump-Relay-Kit-w-Wires-Street-Rod-/250200525141?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a411d0955&vxp=mtr

 

I used - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mez-wik346

I wired it to the extra accessory power feed wires hidden in console.
Here is the down low on that - http://shbox.com/accy/Accessory.html

 

What you think is wrong and what I know is how the circuit works. The positive input of the coil side of the relay has constant battery power. The ground input of the coil side of the relay is pcm controlled. This is why what I said WORKS and what you think should now be what WE KNOW. I know my **** spins every time I turn my key on and has for years now

 

That is the beauty of installing a relay kit, there are many ways to do it , take some ideas from those who have done it, some good youtube clips, some good install univ stuff, many places to mount the relay and direct the wires. If it's your first relay install (it was for me) is a good learning experience, take your time and install the relay first, then test the 12v wire with a meter or test light. Keep it clean. good luck!

 

I wasent trying to be a dick, I am an electrician I was just going on what I know about how ELECTRIC circuits work.

Obviously cars can be different then the 230,000-500,000 volt systems I work on hence why I said what I thought could be the case and left it open ended.

 

If the positive side has constant battery power then the pump would be on even when the car is off assuming you tapped off of that.

it has to be tied into the ignition circuit somehow if it comes on and stays on when you turn the engine on.

 

Uh what?

All the fusible links that provide power to head lights, fogs, fans, etc.. yea their power source is a constant battery hot. Car on or not.

The relay provides the switch off in that circuit and the PCM commands it open/closed. Simple

 

Yah that's what I figured and what I was saying in my earlier post.

What you quoted me on was a response to the other guy that said he tapped right off the power source before the switch/relay, which would cause it to run all the time.

If you'd tap off the air pump relay after the switch it would only work when the PCM turns on the relay which is when the PCM would want to run the air pump.
Atleast that's what makes sense.

 

Hey, you might be the best electrician in the world but your comprehension skills are lacking The relay is a switch and the coil is what turns the switch on and off. The pcm would normally ground the relay to operate it but as I state, you ground that permanently. The positive side of the coil taps into the relay feed wire and as I said, you cut that connection then find a suitable ignition on/engine on hot so your pump comes on when the key is on and the car is running. The power feed that originally went to the air pump now goes to your waterpump. There should be something right in that relay/fuse box that you can tap into but I can't remember for certain which one I used. A simple test light will tell you what works.