Cooling system upgrade
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sorry to hijack this thread but im having cooling issues as well. Ive replaced the radiator and all the hoses, the waterpump and the thermostat. As long as im moving the car is down by the mid line between the bottom line and half way line. If im stuck in traffic the car after stop and go for a while will be up to the top white line on the gauge never goes past that line but it gets up there and that scares the hell out of me.
Ive never heard of getting the pcm tuned for lower fan temps. How do I go about getting that out to get the tune put on it? What temps are you guys having them set at.
Ive never heard of getting the pcm tuned for lower fan temps. How do I go about getting that out to get the tune put on it? What temps are you guys having them set at.
#23
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RETARD, the electric cooling fan on temps are set hot for EMISSIONS reasons. If you actually compare highway temps with fan on temps the first fan is programmed to come on like 30 degrees hotter than the highway cruise temp seen with forward momentum airflow.
Far as radiator cooling capacity. I thought of another possible compromising factor I heard of from a reputable source. A very intelligent guy with a car making 4 digit HP found that if he let Dexcool dry in the radiator it left a film that could not be cleaned out and caused overheating till he simply replaced the radiator.
GM also was using stopleak products from the factory which can cause deposits. People neglect these possibilities and BLINDLY curse anything stock as sub-par.
#24
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INCORRECT. Reverse cooling sends coolant to the heads first, lowering their temperature lower than old school small blocks. This is how the LT1 ran well with a "high" (for the time) compression ratio. It was a pretty good idea and it works.
It's other components of the system that we curse at.
Purchase a replacement PCM on ebay. Plenty sellers that'll even program in your VIN. Then send it or your original to a mail order tuner like PCMforless and have them tweak it up. This way your car isn't down for the week or so it takes.
Most guys use the 160 degree thermostat and have the fans come on at like 165 and full speed at 185.
Dexcool has been known to increase the rotting of intake manifold gaskets. I owned three cars inflicted with this. Most folks flush it and use good old Prestone green.
It's other components of the system that we curse at.
Most guys use the 160 degree thermostat and have the fans come on at like 165 and full speed at 185.
Dexcool has been known to increase the rotting of intake manifold gaskets. I owned three cars inflicted with this. Most folks flush it and use good old Prestone green.
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I don't think anybody is talking about $2K. The Be Cool is only $540 this Griffen is only $444 and with two 1" rows it'll be significantly better than stock. So you're looking at a price difference in the $350-$450 range for significantly improved cooling. And yes, he very likely would come back looking for more after getting a stock replacement--especially if he mods the engine for more power in the future as many of us have experienced already.
Dexcool doesnt like being exposed to air either....tho it is nicer on alum i hear so maybe i should run it but.......nah
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The reverse flow cooling on our LT1’s were an advantage maintaining cooling chambers and running more compression on pump gas. Here we run pump Aral 102 octane. I will give your LT1’s systems better cooling rating then my older BMW 8 series I sold with the M73 (330hp) engine and they ran 190-210 plus with a new radiator I had installed. (Stocker replacement)
The LT1 ran cooler when I first got it new here especially on the highway but it hates slow driving; anything off the autobahn. It did get to 250 once the other day when I got off the bahn and it scared me a little. Thats why im looking to for an upgraded system for when I get off the highway, it doesn't overheat. so far like your folks recommendation.
DVS the car is stock except for the wheels, few suspension mods, and has a K&N Cold Air Intake. Ill be doing bolt-ons soon and see how well she does with a cam, rocker, pushrod, lifter upgrade soon. I know you think the car wont need an upgraded cooling system with stock motor but I rather plan ahead of time, and the car wasn't made for german style driving. I did race some of my BMW, Benz, Audi buddies so I will stick with upgraded radiator. When new it would get to 230 after ripping the motor consistently to 5800rpms when racing. Now im taking it easy only for cruising until I get my new cooling system or just a radiator. Dont get the impression that im getting carried away with a NASCAR cooling system or something. Im investing just a level above a stock one.
Last edited by GermanLSX; 06-21-2013 at 02:09 PM.
#29
You'd need a new fan set for these so good luck pricing that out.
(BTW the $530 and $620 Becool rads on Summit oddly note: "350 HP max, 400 HP max with electric fan(s).") ??? That can't be right.
Until a person adjusts the fan settings on their PCM (and assuming their factory system is working properly) they are not going to know how cool their engine is capable of running with the factory system.
Thus, it is POINTLESS to run out and start spending hundreds of dollars on aftermarket parts - plain and simple.
Why buy something you don't need?
The OP should clarify what mods if any he has done to his car, but it sounds to me and I wouldn't be surprised if the car was stock, or maybe had a few boltons.
Just doing my good deed for the year.
#30
Exactly. Different applications have different requirements, that shouldn't be so hard to accept. You don't need an oil cooler or better brakes for street driving and drag racing either...but those are subjects for a different thread....
I thought you didn’t want to buy things you didn’t need?
Not my view, the correct view. While the stock radiator is better than the LS cars’ and perfectly adequate for street use and drag racing, those applications don’t really require much from the cooling system. In applications which place high demands on the cooling system you will run into its limitations. Compared with the BeCool or the larger Griffens it is vastly inferior. In such applications, upgrading it will provide a dramatic improvement in the cooling system’s performance.
The stock fans, though heavy, really are quite good. You need to shop the aftermarket carefully to find fans that will move as much air as they will—the vast majority of electric fans on the market won’t. They’re actually quite popular on other vehicles as an upgrade in lieu of the more expensive Spal, Flex-a-Lite, Derale, units.
If we were talking about a pickup/SUV/tow rig, then yes, one could use more fan. That application needs more powerful fans. I can use 100% of my Trailblazer’s HP for a sustained period of time without breaking the speed limit—it relies on the fan for most of its airflow. There’s no reason one should ever need more fan in an F-Body—any time you keep your foot in it very long you’ll be at triple digit speeds and Mother Nature provides more airflow than any electric fan ever will. On the track or the Autobahn, more expensive fans will make no difference.
I would have bough a new rad, a new fan assembly - even though by your account you don't need one but if I'm buying a brand new fancy rad to replace the mickey mouse stock one I'm certainly not going to ghetto it up by keeping the old fans,
EDIT: BTW just to be clear on your view: factory radiator: inferior, factory fan assembly: very capable.
The stock fans, though heavy, really are quite good. You need to shop the aftermarket carefully to find fans that will move as much air as they will—the vast majority of electric fans on the market won’t. They’re actually quite popular on other vehicles as an upgrade in lieu of the more expensive Spal, Flex-a-Lite, Derale, units.
If we were talking about a pickup/SUV/tow rig, then yes, one could use more fan. That application needs more powerful fans. I can use 100% of my Trailblazer’s HP for a sustained period of time without breaking the speed limit—it relies on the fan for most of its airflow. There’s no reason one should ever need more fan in an F-Body—any time you keep your foot in it very long you’ll be at triple digit speeds and Mother Nature provides more airflow than any electric fan ever will. On the track or the Autobahn, more expensive fans will make no difference.
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Ive heard all the horror stories about the Opti-Sparks and its pretty much common sense that if you keep it dry it will last. Ive noticed a lot of guys on other forums that their Opti sparks go bad as soon as their water pump leaks. Well luckily mine is running good so far. When I install the new WP ill be opening the cap to make sure everything is in shape.
I expect the car to last 10 more years because ill be putting in some new bearings and ARP bolts within the next few months when I look into valve-train upgrades. But even then with my religious synthetic 10-40 castrol oil changes [2500 miles] I dont see why it wouldn't last another 10 years or 100,000 miles [the way it is now in stock form] as long as its tuned to perfection, good oiling, and good cooling.
Cars start to lose their durability once you start modifying. If you modify smart then it’ll last as long as a stock car. It all depends on how well you take care of it so dont assume since im a Bavarian driving an american muscle car that it’ll be more difficult maintaining it. lol I know these cars werent built like most of our OHC engines but these pushrod engine do run if people will give them a chance to shine. Heck ill even admit that these chevy’s are more reliable and easier to work on than the same model years of our BMW’s [90’s]
You think your american LT1 small blocks are hard to work on? Try changing the plugs or work on the cooling system on a M73 motor and you will get no sleep at all. lol
I just went with a new custom made radiator to ship here [Dresden] and fans shop "WP-Group” They sold me for 500 euros for a 1.5” aluminum core with double fans. Includes transmission cooler. 5 row core. Which isnt bad at all.. Should take a few days to get here with the direct fit connectors specific for a 94 Z28. Reminiscent to Fluidynes radiators. How do these compare to Be-Cool or Griffin in price range?
Sadly they dont have the software to tune the stock fans to come on sooner. Any suggestions on getting the PCM tuned for that?
Last edited by GermanLSX; 06-21-2013 at 05:18 PM.
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Purchase a replacement PCM on ebay. Plenty sellers that'll even program in your VIN. Then send it or your original to a mail order tuner like PCMforless and have them tweak it up. This way your car isn't down for the week or so it takes.
Most guys use the 160 degree thermostat and have the fans come on at like 165 and full speed at 185.
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IMO radiators are like sparkplugs and wires. People replace them when they are shot and then proclaim whatever they put in as replacement is AWESOME because it works better than the worn out crap it replaced.
Far as turning the fans on sooner and all kinds of other stuff the software is called Tunercat the company even offers a package deal with the connection cable and datalogging software called Datamaster.
Far as turning the fans on sooner and all kinds of other stuff the software is called Tunercat the company even offers a package deal with the connection cable and datalogging software called Datamaster.
#38
A rather interesting topic, great read I must say
Would like to share my experience.
When I purchased my LT1 it had a busted radiator. Was advised by many to custom fab a thicker than OEM one. I went against their word and got an OEM from the dealer and installed a 160 thermostat.
Never saw the needle above the 1/4 mark during summer even when driving in heavy traffic and temperates here can average 45-47 degrees C, some days even 49 degrees C.
All this with milled heads, a cam and mild steel long tube headers which don't really help making the engine bay any cooler.
I also run pure water, no anti-freeze or coolant of any sort.
Would like to share my experience.
When I purchased my LT1 it had a busted radiator. Was advised by many to custom fab a thicker than OEM one. I went against their word and got an OEM from the dealer and installed a 160 thermostat.
Never saw the needle above the 1/4 mark during summer even when driving in heavy traffic and temperates here can average 45-47 degrees C, some days even 49 degrees C.
All this with milled heads, a cam and mild steel long tube headers which don't really help making the engine bay any cooler.
I also run pure water, no anti-freeze or coolant of any sort.
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I knew I should have said "if it were me in this situation" either in place of or in addition to "for my application" but that's ok, I like the picking away at what people write piece by piece game, clearly
Its not that hard anymore for me to see why BavarianLT1 wants a better built (and performing) unit. He needs a new rad one way or the other, doesn't want to replace it again, fine. I'd rather go through cheaper OEM rads myself if they continued to sustain the cooling I desired, but that's just me. Of course everyone will have different needs/vs wants > at first I believed the OP's desire was based solely on what he thought his "needs" were. I get now its both a want & a need to some extent.
Since it seems I tried to put words into your mouth already, I can't blame you for returning the favour (re: I thought you didn't want to buy things you didn't need?). I don't need a beefier rad. BUT if I was going to splurge on a $750+/- jewel that I didn't need (thus making it a want), I'd also want to research and go all in on a complete kit with upgraded fans; I'd find one. When your better half is self proclaimed OCD that stuff rubs off a little. To date I have bought many things I didn't "need" for my car, although I will disagree with you on not needing better brakes - that is arguably the biggest safety component of any vehicle. The stock 10" LT1 brake system is scary at best even under speed limit abiding, defensive driving circumstances. Did I need to splurge on 6-piston, 2-piece 13" disc brakes to preserve my new setup? - Absolutely. If our German friend is routinely traveling the autobahn at 150-250 kph with the stock brakes I'd be terrified for him. However I have a strong feeling this guy frisbee'd his stock brakes long ago (buddy, be my hero and tell me you are running those wonderful German Mov-it brakes on your car! I found the one distributor here in Canada and priced out a kit when I was looking... just could not justify blowing almost $5 grand on front brakes).
Thanks. Will consider and compare if/when need be.
Its not that hard anymore for me to see why BavarianLT1 wants a better built (and performing) unit. He needs a new rad one way or the other, doesn't want to replace it again, fine. I'd rather go through cheaper OEM rads myself if they continued to sustain the cooling I desired, but that's just me. Of course everyone will have different needs/vs wants > at first I believed the OP's desire was based solely on what he thought his "needs" were. I get now its both a want & a need to some extent.
Since it seems I tried to put words into your mouth already, I can't blame you for returning the favour (re: I thought you didn't want to buy things you didn't need?). I don't need a beefier rad. BUT if I was going to splurge on a $750+/- jewel that I didn't need (thus making it a want), I'd also want to research and go all in on a complete kit with upgraded fans; I'd find one. When your better half is self proclaimed OCD that stuff rubs off a little. To date I have bought many things I didn't "need" for my car, although I will disagree with you on not needing better brakes - that is arguably the biggest safety component of any vehicle. The stock 10" LT1 brake system is scary at best even under speed limit abiding, defensive driving circumstances. Did I need to splurge on 6-piston, 2-piece 13" disc brakes to preserve my new setup? - Absolutely. If our German friend is routinely traveling the autobahn at 150-250 kph with the stock brakes I'd be terrified for him. However I have a strong feeling this guy frisbee'd his stock brakes long ago (buddy, be my hero and tell me you are running those wonderful German Mov-it brakes on your car! I found the one distributor here in Canada and priced out a kit when I was looking... just could not justify blowing almost $5 grand on front brakes).
Thanks. Will consider and compare if/when need be.
To GermanLSX, well Sir I have to say good on you for driving and wanting to keep an LT1 powered F-body in Deutschland. I assumed you were a yankee expatriate working or serving overseas. I’ve always dreamed about shipping my Camaro over to Europe a few weeks ahead of another European holiday. Would love to see what my relatives in Polska or Italia would think at the sight and sound of that car. You can bet I’d rip through Germany’s autobahns from one country to the next. Do they let anybody bozo in a car hop onto Nuremburg for a few laps?
Glad to hear you were able to source a local system at a reasonable price. As for fan tuning, PCMforless – or any number of other popular tuners in U.S., even “amateurs” – could easily do a mail order tune for you. It may cost a bit to ship your PCM here and back but if you are so technically inclined they could surely email you the file for you to upload/install to your PCM. I’m definitely not there so I can’t help, but I’m sure others can chime in to lend guidance. Speaking of a tuning tweak, it would almost be a shame to spend money on just a fan setting change. I know what kind of fuel you boys have access to at the pumps over there... I think 97 is like the bronze/basic unleaded isn’t it? I’d be curious to see how your car would react if it were power tuned (fuel/spark curve) for 104 octane. That’s part of what a tuner could do for you. Question is do you wait to purchase a tune when you have more mods to factor into tuning, or pull the trigger now to change fans settings and possibly timing advance? Another alternative might be if you can get your hands on a used Hypertech Power programmer III – these were hand held tools that once retailed for $200-$300 that allowed you to tune for lower fan temps, power tuning (basic, from regular to premium 91-92 fuel), gear ratio changes, speed limiter removal, “performance shift” for auto trans, etc. You’d have to be certain the unit was unlocked or set to stock – once a VIN # is entered and stock programming is swapped for tuning, the unit is useless to anyone else who tries to use it. Maybe somebody is selling one on eBay for $50, etc.
BTW what trans and gear ration does your car have?
I'd imagine if anyone ever "needed" the speed limiter removed, it would be you.
Glad to hear you were able to source a local system at a reasonable price. As for fan tuning, PCMforless – or any number of other popular tuners in U.S., even “amateurs” – could easily do a mail order tune for you. It may cost a bit to ship your PCM here and back but if you are so technically inclined they could surely email you the file for you to upload/install to your PCM. I’m definitely not there so I can’t help, but I’m sure others can chime in to lend guidance. Speaking of a tuning tweak, it would almost be a shame to spend money on just a fan setting change. I know what kind of fuel you boys have access to at the pumps over there... I think 97 is like the bronze/basic unleaded isn’t it? I’d be curious to see how your car would react if it were power tuned (fuel/spark curve) for 104 octane. That’s part of what a tuner could do for you. Question is do you wait to purchase a tune when you have more mods to factor into tuning, or pull the trigger now to change fans settings and possibly timing advance? Another alternative might be if you can get your hands on a used Hypertech Power programmer III – these were hand held tools that once retailed for $200-$300 that allowed you to tune for lower fan temps, power tuning (basic, from regular to premium 91-92 fuel), gear ratio changes, speed limiter removal, “performance shift” for auto trans, etc. You’d have to be certain the unit was unlocked or set to stock – once a VIN # is entered and stock programming is swapped for tuning, the unit is useless to anyone else who tries to use it. Maybe somebody is selling one on eBay for $50, etc.
BTW what trans and gear ration does your car have?
I'd imagine if anyone ever "needed" the speed limiter removed, it would be you.
Both being an american and german is obviously one of the reasons why I speak fluent english and learned Dutch & German here. Heck im still learning a little both Dutch/German after being here almost 18 years. lol I really miss the states and hope I can get my way back there soon and find work over there.
Long story short about the parts im running on my car.
Lol for the time being MOV-It brakes I have my sights on soon, but the brakes im running [I didnt even mention] a few months after I bought the car I got a good deal on a mild brembo brake system. Drilled rotors, Hawk Pads, 4 piston calipers that put me down the hole $2000 americans. Carbon Ceramic are something of the future. maybe a set of ZR1’s and ill be good to stop at any rate. When I first got the car it had stock brakes and they shook an earthquake when getting off to an exit. Rotors were warped and had cracks when I bought the car. At that point I made a decision to slow down earlier before an exit, because your right those stock brakes only lasted about 3000 miles until I replaced with the brembos. The ones im running now are nothing special but will fit my needs and my driving style. I also invested in new bushings through out. New Eibach Coil Overs I got for $900. Couldnt find a better deal. The only other mod ive done to the car is a CAI, and a set matte black "DV 3 piece D2 forged Concave" wheels I bought from Wheelscompany.com near Hamburg.
To answer your question im running a 6 speed with the 3.73 gears with a 10 bolt. I blew the stock rear end several months ago and was about to get a 12 bolt but honestly didnt need a 12 bolt right now. Old rear had the 3.23 and got me great mileage but wanted something alittle quicker on the roll. 3.73 For the tuning and speed limiter I dont think it has one since its a 6 speed. My trap speed in 6th gear is 153mph and 5th is 165mph at 5800rpm. Not sure when I get the PCM tuned I will get hassled about speed limiters. Honestly im not that great when it comes to cars computers. I could though question about timing and seeing if that will free up some power. Not sure ill give PCMforless an extension call. About the fuel, yes its unleaded. Since its 102 though maybe I can get the PCM timing tuned also if that’ll help. Thank you for that hypertech tool. Ill google that and see what my options are. Also with the fuel im running I could look into increase rpms to 6200rpm getting tuned and timing right but it’ll make no power at that level slowing me down?! I dont want to push my limits to where its not necessary.
Now that I told my cars mods, I see you have a 383. How much you putting down to the wheels? My sights are on a motor build soon. Was hoping for a stroked procharged set-up in the long run but will gradually modify my car piece by piece for now.
Last edited by GermanLSX; 06-22-2013 at 03:46 PM.
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A rather interesting topic, great read I must say
Would like to share my experience.
When I purchased my LT1 it had a busted radiator. Was advised by many to custom fab a thicker than OEM one. I went against their word and got an OEM from the dealer and installed a 160 thermostat.
Never saw the needle above the 1/4 mark during summer even when driving in heavy traffic and temperates here can average 45-47 degrees C, some days even 49 degrees C.
All this with milled heads, a cam and mild steel long tube headers which don't really help making the engine bay any cooler.
I also run pure water, no anti-freeze or coolant of any sort.
Would like to share my experience.
When I purchased my LT1 it had a busted radiator. Was advised by many to custom fab a thicker than OEM one. I went against their word and got an OEM from the dealer and installed a 160 thermostat.
Never saw the needle above the 1/4 mark during summer even when driving in heavy traffic and temperates here can average 45-47 degrees C, some days even 49 degrees C.
All this with milled heads, a cam and mild steel long tube headers which don't really help making the engine bay any cooler.
I also run pure water, no anti-freeze or coolant of any sort.
During the summers here in Germany the summers get pretty hot like lately its been in the 80’s and 90’s these past few months and driving to work in the hot summer days at 3000-4300rpms 45 mins daily [before the crack & leaking WP] she ran consistently just under the 1/4 mark. With the crack & leaking WP she got a little over the halfway mark [Which I think is 220 halfway mark so about 230] but then would cool off the faster I went. Only cooled down just below the halfway mark. Thank god for that air dam. I dont see any speed bumps from where I drive and park but would an aluminum air dam make sense? lol i know stupid question but with the air speed the plastic air dam bends getting less air flow to radiator. Oh well lol just curious. No need to stress it anyways. Got a new all aluminum radiator coming in to make it up.
With the new radiator, water pump, new 160 thermostat, and tuned fans im hoping she will stay at 170-80 no matter the rpm and stop light [lack of air flow].