valve adjustment
06-22-2013, 09:13 PM
#22
spinning the pushrod is the same as rolling the pushrod between your fingers.
Yes I know it is common in repair manuals. I also know some repair manuals tell you you can do the jumper wire trick on the 94 to pull codes and the FSM I believe lists the thermostat housing torque in ft.lbs.. Try both of those for us and report back.
Aftermarket polylocks spin freely on the stud till you tighten down the allen heads in the polylock or take out all the lash unlike the stock nuts which are always hard to turn. The manuals for stock vehicles say nothing about setting the allen head screw in the polylock so since that is not in the manual should we neglect it?
Books are useful but the information memorized from them does not become knowledge till one puts it into practice and actually understands things.
I own the Helm's manual for my car too, but I comprehend the fact that aftermarket components in the valvetrain might impact adjustment of such.
Yes I know it is common in repair manuals. I also know some repair manuals tell you you can do the jumper wire trick on the 94 to pull codes and the FSM I believe lists the thermostat housing torque in ft.lbs.. Try both of those for us and report back.
Aftermarket polylocks spin freely on the stud till you tighten down the allen heads in the polylock or take out all the lash unlike the stock nuts which are always hard to turn. The manuals for stock vehicles say nothing about setting the allen head screw in the polylock so since that is not in the manual should we neglect it?
Books are useful but the information memorized from them does not become knowledge till one puts it into practice and actually understands things.
I own the Helm's manual for my car too, but I comprehend the fact that aftermarket components in the valvetrain might impact adjustment of such.
06-25-2013, 10:43 PM
#23
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Since the OP doesn't care for my advice then i have nothing to suggest or debate. Now i realize why i wasn't getting straight answers. Spinning the "polylock" down to verify zero lash is good humor for me and thx to both of u as i enjoy the entertainment.
Good bye,
cardo
Good bye,
cardo
06-26-2013, 07:24 AM
#24
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Spinning or rolling, however you want to describe your method, has proven to be extremely inconsistent, and by your history in stating how adjusting with engine running is a bad thing, makes many believe you don't know what you're doing or what you're posting about. You'd think you would've learned from the last valve adjustment thread...
06-26-2013, 04:47 PM
#25
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i was taking everyones advice. i think i just have a blown lifter. this is what caused me to do it both ways. and why i went along asking and ive just come to the conclusion 1 lifter out of the 16 is bad. ill reply back when i get that lifter replaced. just gotta waste $120 cause theres no way im only buying 1 for 40-50$
06-26-2013, 05:40 PM
#26
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The same GM shop manual also says to adjust 3/4 of a turn past lash. What's your opinion about that again? Something along the lines of cam lobes being wiped out?
Spinning or rolling, however you want to describe your method, has proven to be extremely inconsistent, and by your history in stating how adjusting with engine running is a bad thing, makes many believe you don't know what you're doing or what you're posting about. You'd think you would've learned from the last valve adjustment thread...
Spinning or rolling, however you want to describe your method, has proven to be extremely inconsistent, and by your history in stating how adjusting with engine running is a bad thing, makes many believe you don't know what you're doing or what you're posting about. You'd think you would've learned from the last valve adjustment thread...
First accusation/misquote: The same GM shop manual also says to adjust 3/4 of a turn past lash. What's your opinion about that again? Something along the lines of cam lobes being wiped out?
Second accusation/misquote: and by your history in stating how adjusting with engine running is a bad thing, makes many believe you don't know what you're doing or what you're posting about
When u can cut and paste my actual statements then i could respond. Until then your a waste of time and I have to consider your post harassment.
cardo
06-26-2013, 06:12 PM
#27
I think you have a bad lifter. And cardo. You are a retard. And high. You obviously have never adjusted a set of roller rockers. If you had you would know that when the poly lock stops the lifter stops ticking which also means zero lash. Then add desired pre load which can be anywhere from 1/8 to 1/2 a turn depending on the valvetrain setup. Most of us with well set up valve trains are usually at about a 1/4 turn. Try and rev a small block to 7k on 3/4 turn.. ain't gonna happen. Instead of bashing the people with actual real world experience and results you could pay attention and learn a thing or two around here. Most of us turn wrenches not pages in a book.
06-26-2013, 08:01 PM
#28
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You do that, then reflect on the last valve adjustment thread you polluted, as well as this one as definitive proof your experience and opinions equate to nothing more than a fart in the wind.
06-26-2013, 09:40 PM
#30
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I think you have a bad lifter. And cardo. You are a retard. And high. You obviously have never adjusted a set of roller rockers. If you had you would know that when the poly lock stops the lifter stops ticking which also means zero lash. Then add desired pre load which can be anywhere from 1/8 to 1/2 a turn depending on the valvetrain setup. Most of us with well set up valve trains are usually at about a 1/4 turn. Try and rev a small block to 7k on 3/4 turn.. ain't gonna happen. Instead of bashing the people with actual real world experience and results you could pay attention and learn a thing or two around here. Most of us turn wrenches not pages in a book.
So another overconfidant bad mouth that uses sound to find zero lash. No wonder there are so many vlv train problems on this and other camaro forums - too many bad mouths encourge others to use thier ears to find zero lash - too error likely. And where did u see nearly stock LT1's reving to 7k rpm? Or even steet cammed LT1's? U are really in wonder land. How many street cams spin to 7k rpm? I can tell i'm wasting my time again with another village idiot that dosn't know what over reving a motor does to the vlv train. And you could find out if u kept your mouth shut long enough to read a book before encouraging others to trash thier motors. You could find out about vlv float before u ruin another vlv train but again its a waste of my time and effort to provide good advice.
Ignorance is bliss here and i'm not happy at all,
cardo
06-26-2013, 09:45 PM
#31
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cardo
06-27-2013, 06:54 AM
#32
I think you have a bad lifter. And cardo. You are a retard. And high. You obviously have never adjusted a set of roller rockers. If you had you would know that when the poly lock stops the lifter stops ticking which also means zero lash. Then add desired pre load which can be anywhere from 1/8 to 1/2 a turn depending on the valvetrain setup. Most of us with well set up valve trains are usually at about a 1/4 turn. Try and rev a small block to 7k on 3/4 turn.. ain't gonna happen. Instead of bashing the people with actual real world experience and results you could pay attention and learn a thing or two around here. Most of us turn wrenches, NOT PAGES IN A BOOK.
Bingo!!!
Well said!!
06-27-2013, 07:59 AM
#33
lot of people hating on the ls7 lifters........ive run 6 sets of them in the past year.....not one issue.......I soak em in mineral spirits first and actuate the plunger to get all of the packing goop out of them then I oil them and pump them up and good to go
fyi everybody talking 1/8 1/4 turn blah blah...........just figure it out for the preload you desire......get the thread pitch on your stud and you can figure out exactly how far each turn will preload the lifter
fyi everybody talking 1/8 1/4 turn blah blah...........just figure it out for the preload you desire......get the thread pitch on your stud and you can figure out exactly how far each turn will preload the lifter
06-27-2013, 12:31 PM
#35
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lot of people hating on the ls7 lifters........ive run 6 sets of them in the past year.....not one issue.......I soak em in mineral spirits first and actuate the plunger to get all of the packing goop out of them then I oil them and pump them up and good to go
fyi everybody talking 1/8 1/4 turn blah blah...........just figure it out for the preload you desire......get the thread pitch on your stud and you can figure out exactly how far each turn will preload the lifter
fyi everybody talking 1/8 1/4 turn blah blah...........just figure it out for the preload you desire......get the thread pitch on your stud and you can figure out exactly how far each turn will preload the lifter
06-27-2013, 01:55 PM
#38
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Most lifters I have worked with, after you clean them in a solvent you can take a pushrod in one hand and the lifter in the other and push on the lifter cup with the old pushrod and work the spring in the lifter. I have had a few sets that were pretty tight , but none that were cleaned well that did not compress.
My only bad experience with an LS7 lifter was the roller shaft, it came out of one and wiped out the cam. I didnt get to look it over well since the rest of the lifter shattered.
I don't blame this on "LS7" lifters since they are pressed and mushroomed together the same way the factory ones are and what are the chances of that happening again (if that was the culprit) But at least I got to cleam my engine out and see how things were doing...lol (on the down side the cam was an expensive custom billet piece!)
My only bad experience with an LS7 lifter was the roller shaft, it came out of one and wiped out the cam. I didnt get to look it over well since the rest of the lifter shattered.
I don't blame this on "LS7" lifters since they are pressed and mushroomed together the same way the factory ones are and what are the chances of that happening again (if that was the culprit) But at least I got to cleam my engine out and see how things were doing...lol (on the down side the cam was an expensive custom billet piece!)
06-27-2013, 03:30 PM
#39
yea what they said.......mineral spirits can be bought at any store pretty much walmart home depot etc.... its a very mild solvent as said above....use a pushrod and actuate the plunger it shouldn't take too much you should be able to do it by hand......after you let them dry do the same thing in a bucket of like 5-10w30 oil and actuate the oil into the lifter and your good to go......my view on the failures is the packing goop not being removed and the engine starts and oil cant get into the lifter so it pounds on the seat where the plunger sits until the goop melts out and oil gets in, and by this time damage has occoured.........again that's my thought on it not saying its right or wrong....