valve adjustment
valve adjustment well.. i adjust my valves with the car running. i can get them all but 1. i adjust it and the noise comes back every time! bad lifter?? or what causes this? thanks again
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Verdad Gallardo is there a better option than these lifters? or is it something they do? if ima take the intake off i can just replace them all unless this is not a known issue? they were all brand new
im using poly locks.. im not aware that its backing off? i adjusted all of them and it seems to be the 1 thats really noisy. all of them seem noisier than before the comp pro mags but i thought that was normal.
ill try readjusting it again and make sure i tighting it up while holding it
ill try readjusting it again and make sure i tighting it up while holding it
Banned
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 588
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From: Las Vegas
How did u adjust the lifters? By feel with roller the p-rod with your fingers or by noise? Because one method is error likely i have to ask before advising trying anything else.
Noise can also be from tiny exhaust leak(s) and can surprisingly sound like a lifter tick.
cardo
Noise can also be from tiny exhaust leak(s) and can surprisingly sound like a lifter tick.
cardo
I had a poorly machined Polly and it made a bastard bitch out of my valve train for a while till I found it wearing into the damn rocker and ordered a full set of replacement pollies.
im using poly locks.. im not aware that its backing off? i adjusted all of them and it seems to be the 1 thats really noisy. all of them seem noisier than before the comp pro mags but i thought that was normal.
ill try readjusting it again and make sure i tighting it up while holding it
ill try readjusting it again and make sure i tighting it up while holding it
well i did it all by feel to start and then just didnt feel comfortable for some reason so i back em all off while running and did noise and 1 just kept coming back. perhaps the lock was backing off. ill remove the valve cover again today
Banned
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 588
Likes: 0
From: Las Vegas
So does that mean u adjusted them by rolling the p-rod to find zero lash and it started making noise or u adjusted them by feel and just didn't like doing it that way and readjusted them by noise after which the noise started?
Just trying to help but i can't know how u did the adjustment and where it went wrong over the internet unless your honest enough to tell me.
Before u tear into the motor u could try it again using the feel for zero lash method unless the damage has already been done. Remember zero lash is when the p-rod just starts to drag but u can still roll it with your fingers - no up or down movement.
cardo
Just trying to help but i can't know how u did the adjustment and where it went wrong over the internet unless your honest enough to tell me.
Before u tear into the motor u could try it again using the feel for zero lash method unless the damage has already been done. Remember zero lash is when the p-rod just starts to drag but u can still roll it with your fingers - no up or down movement.
cardo
How did u adjust the lifters? By feel with roller the p-rod with your fingers or by noise? Because one method is error likely i have to ask before advising trying anything else.
Noise can also be from tiny exhaust leak(s) and can surprisingly sound like a lifter tick.
cardo
Noise can also be from tiny exhaust leak(s) and can surprisingly sound like a lifter tick.
cardo
So does that mean u adjusted them by rolling the p-rod to find zero lash and it started making noise or u adjusted them by feel and just didn't like doing it that way and readjusted them by noise after which the noise started?
Just trying to help but i can't know how u did the adjustment and where it went wrong over the internet unless your honest enough to tell me.
Before u tear into the motor u could try it again using the feel for zero lash method unless the damage has already been done. Remember zero lash is when the p-rod just starts to drag but u can still roll it with your fingers - no up or down movement.
cardo
Just trying to help but i can't know how u did the adjustment and where it went wrong over the internet unless your honest enough to tell me.
Before u tear into the motor u could try it again using the feel for zero lash method unless the damage has already been done. Remember zero lash is when the p-rod just starts to drag but u can still roll it with your fingers - no up or down movement.
cardo
The spin the pushrod method causes a LOT of headaches, the vast majority of folks will go way too tight that way. No need to spin to find zero lash especially not with poly locks that you just spin down till they touch. Harder with stock locks but polylocks make it real easy.
heading out soon to pull the one valve cover and double check. i already double checked passenger side as i had a hard time getting a valve cover to seal there so i went over it extra. ill do driver side another time and make sure no nuts back off as i did on the passenger side. i used a 1/4 turn. should i go 1/2?
Banned
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 588
Likes: 0
From: Las Vegas
The spin the pushrod method causes a LOT of headaches, the vast majority of folks will go way too tight that way. No need to spin to find zero lash especially not with poly locks that you just spin down till they touch. Harder with stock locks but polylocks make it real easy.
Well every shop manual on the planet - included my GM '94 camaro shop manual - says to roll the p-rod with fingers until it starts to drag. Did all those shop manuals get it wrong too.
Your a genius in your own mind - and a real case to the rest of us.
cardo