LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Time for a 58mm Throttle body??

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Old 07-10-2013, 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by RamAir95TA
No, but why?


Because I may put a bigger cam in the car. And since the intake will be off I might as well bore it to 58mm for the future when I upgrade the TB since its pointless now.
Old 07-10-2013, 05:35 PM
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When you do the cam swap you'll have to pull the intake manifold anyway. Besides, you need a TB gasket to scribe the holes before you start removing material and, unless you already have the TB, that isn't going to happen.
Old 07-10-2013, 05:41 PM
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I just posted the CFM's here: https://ls1tech.com/forums/17536283-post20.html

Stock TPI/LT1 48mm Throttle Body w/o airfoil -- 783.0 cfm

Stock TPI/LT1 48mm Throttle Body w/ airfoil -- 821.9 cfm

TPI/LT1 52mm Throttle Body w/o airfoil -- 848.9 cfm

TPI/LT1 52mm Throttle Body w/ airfoil -- 898.8 cfm
Old 07-10-2013, 05:52 PM
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If it is peaking at 5600 the problem is not the cam size, maybe cam timing or something else is choking it, maybe a tune issue, something but it is not the 503 cam causing that.

How was the rpm read? Was it a tach signal or a clamp or calculated from wheelspeed? I am going to guess calculated and just wrong.

People think "ported heads with bigger valves" is meaningful commentary and that flowbench numbers are the measure and can be dead wrong on both accounts.

The torque number the converter, not a real flywheel number.

Your HP number looks reasonable to me other than the peak rpm, everyone has inflated expectations, and you have generic heads. 95KPA is not a problem and says the intake tract and TB aren't really an issue. As discussed in several threads currently the LT1 MAP will read more vacuum than there really is.

You want the thing to make power stop trying to buy generic work, that you then want to compare to budget work, buy something good. The cam being about the last part of the combo I would change.

Too often folks buy "good as such and such" parts or just plain have inflated expectations and when they fail to meet expectations come up with excuses and swear by their mistakes thereby convincing others to repeat those mistakes.

Back to the torque numb er, you say the drag radials aren't spinning but then claim over 400tq right at the converter stall speed. Think about that.
Old 07-10-2013, 08:57 PM
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I think I remember the dyno operator saying something about just guessing the wheel speed I don't remember. I doubt it's accurate because I shift at like 6300.

My torque numbers were like that the whole time


Yes I had radials and th best 60ft I could get was 1.80 they were consistent most of the runs and I only spun them 2/6 runs getting a 1.9 60ft


Old 07-10-2013, 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by RamAir95TA
When you do the cam swap you'll have to pull the intake manifold anyway. Besides, you need a TB gasket to scribe the holes before you start removing material and, unless you already have the TB, that isn't going to happen.
I was planning to have a machine shop port the inlets for me
Old 07-10-2013, 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Cerridius
I was planning to have a machine shop port the inlets for me
So? You still need the template of the 58mm gasket. Not all 58mm throttle bodies open up the holes on-center.

Maybe you should slow down a bit and listen to what some of these guys are telling you.
Old 07-10-2013, 10:28 PM
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Alright well I plan to do one of these 3 things. Gears, TB or bigger cam.
Old 07-10-2013, 10:32 PM
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I vote gears.
Old 07-11-2013, 09:15 AM
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what do you have for gears now?
Old 07-11-2013, 02:16 PM
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tb don't need it
gears waste of money you will break them with a sticky tire
do the cam or save for a proper rear end with gears
Old 07-11-2013, 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Jason94z
tb don't need it
gears waste of money you will break them with a sticky tire
do the cam or save for a proper rear end with gears
Between the fact that aftermarket higher ratio gears are stronger than stock and he has an automatic the 10-bolt should be able to handle that just fine. The M6 cars (like yours, obviously) have FAR more ring gear failures than A4s.
Old 07-11-2013, 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by RamAir95TA
Between the fact that aftermarket higher ratio gears are stronger than stock and he has an automatic the 10-bolt should be able to handle that just fine. The M6 cars (like yours, obviously) have FAR more ring gear failures than A4s.
Good point I am used to my M6 breaking everything.

Listen to RamAir95TA.
Old 07-11-2013, 11:14 PM
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I have stock 3.23s and would go 3.73. I was afraid at first but after seeing my friend run 373s in his ls1 A4 10bolt rearwith radials at the track for a while I feel more at ease
Old 07-12-2013, 03:51 PM
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What about a 52mm TB?
Old 07-12-2013, 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Cerridius
What about a 52mm TB?
That would be my choice...it's what I run on my 383. I'd get a factory ported one since they are cheaper and have less issues than aftermarket TB's....you can pick one up rebuilt and ported to 52mm on ebay for around $150-200, and put an airfoil in it and get nearly 900CFM says dude^
Old 07-12-2013, 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Cerridius
What about a 52mm TB?
Have you listened to anything anyone had to say in this thread about bigger throttle bodies bro?
Old 07-12-2013, 06:30 PM
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Yea, everyone said not to get a 58mm.
Old 07-12-2013, 07:12 PM
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Looked to me like we were trying to tell you that you aren't making enough power to need a larger TB at all. Not sure how to make it any clearer. You asked....
Old 07-13-2013, 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by RamAir95TA
Have you listened to anything anyone had to say in this thread about bigger throttle bodies bro?

Nobody gave him the answer he wanted so why would he listen? Aren't forums for blindly looking for praise on poor ideas and results?



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