Hear me out lt1
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Hear me out lt1 Ok so hear me out. I gotta 94 z28 80,xxx original miles. Its 6 speed, with a 385 stroker motor. (.40) all eagle forged rods & pistons, 11.42:1 compression, afr 210cc heads, lt4 intake ported to march heads, 44 lb injectors, 58mm throttle body, 24x opti delete kit, hooker longtubes, 4" exhaust, advanced induction custom grind cam, tubular lower control arms, sub frame connectors, adjustable pan hard bar ext. moser 9" for rear end. 3.90 gear 31 spline, nodular detroit locker. & of courst the hurst shifter. Spec 3+clutch etc.. But car has been dyno'd at 410hp.. Please tell me if this seems correct with all the money in the motor? I also have 2 bottles of nos set up for it too.. Motors only 2k on build & has nvr been sprayed so. But please some input please.
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From: Nebraska
Ok so hear me out. I gotta 94 z28 80,xxx original miles. Its 6 speed, with a 385 stroker motor. (.40) all eagle forged rods & pistons, 11.42:1 compression, afr 210cc heads, lt4 intake ported to march heads, 44 lb injectors, 58mm throttle body, 24x opti delete kit, hooker longtubes, 4" exhaust, advanced induction custom grind cam, tubular lower control arms, sub frame connectors, adjustable pan hard bar ext. moser 9" for rear end. 3.90 gear 31 spline, nodular detroit locker. & of courst the hurst shifter. Spec 3+clutch etc.. But car has been dyno'd at 410hp.. Please tell me if this seems correct with all the money in the motor? I also have 2 bottles of nos set up for it too.. Motors only 2k on build & has nvr been sprayed so. But please some input please.
My biggest question is what cam are you running? That would tell us a lot.
Exactly, we've all had this talk here. The numbers from a dyno are just a benchmark. You might go to the track and be very happy with your time there. But I can tell you that I've seen stock short blocks (and 355's like mine) make more power with just AI heads/cam/intake.
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Exactly, we've all had this talk here. The numbers from a dyno are just a benchmark. You might go to the track and be very happy with your time there. But I can tell you that I've seen stock short blocks (and 355's like mine) make more power with just AI heads/cam/intake.
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Thats what i was thinking too. Seems a lil low, but it was tuned at blue cat, & im not sure about cam other than its a custom cam with a huge lift. It bucks like crazy & is somewhat difficult to drive. Gets 6 mpg too at that. But anywho, guy who had it before me has had it on the track 8th mile & it was like 8 sec. Possibly, i could be wrong. I got the track times in the glovebox still. All in all i'm happy with it. Its a car iv seen my whole life growing up, & i somewhat know the guy at that. He was asking 7500 for it & i traded him an 03 silverado, 98 z28 roller car, mathews bow, & 1300 boot. Sounds like alot but i dont have no where near 7500 in it. He claimed he has 20k in it. Idk if i believe that or not but i know theres one chunk of change in it. Thanks for the input guys lemme kno something.
Its actually 6 sec. On 8th mile sry. Diddent wanna wanna sound too low at first. Lol. But i'd say it do alot better with juice since its all forged. Plenty enough power for me & cant wait for the strip!
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From: Mount Sterling KY
My AI H/C/I on a forged 385 only made right at 400 rwhp on a TH400 but runs 11.0's N/A and 9.9's on spray. This is in a 4200 lb Impala SS. Take it to the track before u get discouraged.
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So you didn't have it personally tuned? Did the person you got it from provide proof of the tune? I'd be weary of the quality of the tune if not. Either way, you may turn a good track number if you can hammer those gears.
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OP,
If you didn't spec the engine build then it's impossible for us (or you) to really 'know' the engine to determine what the numbers mean.
Cam specs? Quench? These seem to be unknowns at this time and are criticle to nailing down a good mail order tune.
My advice......get it tuned again, on the dyno & the street.
This will (IMO) get rid of the bucking you mentioned.....and.....will squeeze out all available engine power.
THEN.....take that puppy to the track
!!!!!!
KW
If you didn't spec the engine build then it's impossible for us (or you) to really 'know' the engine to determine what the numbers mean.
Cam specs? Quench? These seem to be unknowns at this time and are criticle to nailing down a good mail order tune.
My advice......get it tuned again, on the dyno & the street.
This will (IMO) get rid of the bucking you mentioned.....and.....will squeeze out all available engine power.
THEN.....take that puppy to the track
!!!!!!KW
You do realize that is a low 9 to mid 10 sec car according to your 1/8 time?
I wouldn't trust the previous owner's timeslips without some proof they are for that car setup as it is and you know which lane to look at.
Also please post at least what you think the time is to at least the tenth of a second. There is a huge difference between 6.99 and 6.00.
The dyno numbers are no surprise atall.
I agree with those saying take it to the track and run it. Betting 8s the first pass and as you get the hang of it you will whittle it into the 7s, maybe mid 7s if you drive well.
Also please post at least what you think the time is to at least the tenth of a second. There is a huge difference between 6.99 and 6.00.
The dyno numbers are no surprise atall.
I agree with those saying take it to the track and run it. Betting 8s the first pass and as you get the hang of it you will whittle it into the 7s, maybe mid 7s if you drive well.
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I wouldn't trust the previous owner's timeslips without some proof they are for that car setup as it is and you know which lane to look at.
Also please post at least what you think the time is to at least the tenth of a second. There is a huge difference between 6.99 and 6.00.
The dyno numbers are no surprise atall.
I agree with those saying take it to the track and run it. Betting 8s the first pass and as you get the hang of it you will whittle it into the 7s, maybe mid 7s if you drive well.
Also please post at least what you think the time is to at least the tenth of a second. There is a huge difference between 6.99 and 6.00.
The dyno numbers are no surprise atall.
I agree with those saying take it to the track and run it. Betting 8s the first pass and as you get the hang of it you will whittle it into the 7s, maybe mid 7s if you drive well.
10 Second Club
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Dyno numbers alone mean ****. There are 5 dyno's within an hour of me, and you wouldn't believe the variance between them, lol. Even on low powered cars the difference is substantial. The "happy" dyno's are ridiculously high, and the normal ones are like heartbreakers.
