My wait is almost over.
The autometer I have is electric, goes up to 30psi and has the max boost/warning function. Going with the 15 psi one may be short sighted if you ever get the itch to upgrade your blower. I like my gauges to match so that would bother me going with a different brand.
I would suggest either figuring out whats up with your current gauge and buying whatever part needed to fix it (as long as that doesn't mean you are almost at the cost of a new gauge). The electric gauges still use a map sensor just so you are aware.
Otherwise, I would buy a new one and go for the 30 psi unit just for the reason I already mentioned.
I would suggest either figuring out whats up with your current gauge and buying whatever part needed to fix it (as long as that doesn't mean you are almost at the cost of a new gauge). The electric gauges still use a map sensor just so you are aware.
Otherwise, I would buy a new one and go for the 30 psi unit just for the reason I already mentioned.
I did recieve some technical advice to check the wiring and voltage to my current gauge. But I doubt that somehow that has changed. And they did say that doing what I did (swapping the 3 bar map sensor with another 3 bar map sensor) would accurately rule out the map sensor from being bad. So all and all, it would seem I have a bad gauge. Judging by the tech I talked with on the phone, it would seem the price to look at and repair my gauge (after shipping) would be just under the price of a new gauge, and even then, its a repaired used gauge with who knows how much time left on it.
I am thinking its time for a new unit.
I agree with your thinking of keeping everything uniform. And I did find one more option. SpeedHut makes a decent gauge that seems to fit all my criterea, but it still holds the look of the Sport Comp from Autometer. Its priced just a little better at $170.
I am leaning more towards a 0-15# gauge. I have had the 0-30 for a long time now, and the needle barely moves. I would rather have a wider range of movement to see better on whats going on. Honeslty, I almost think the power level I have is a little more than I ideally want. I don't see changing the setup that drastically to an F1 ever. If I did, and dropped that kind of $ on everything all over again, it probably wouldn't be that big of a deal at that point to buy a new gauge yet again. But I really don't see myself doing that. Yes, most always want more power, but I was on the fence for a very long time about even upping what I currently have.
I am thinking its time for a new unit.
I agree with your thinking of keeping everything uniform. And I did find one more option. SpeedHut makes a decent gauge that seems to fit all my criterea, but it still holds the look of the Sport Comp from Autometer. Its priced just a little better at $170.
I am leaning more towards a 0-15# gauge. I have had the 0-30 for a long time now, and the needle barely moves. I would rather have a wider range of movement to see better on whats going on. Honeslty, I almost think the power level I have is a little more than I ideally want. I don't see changing the setup that drastically to an F1 ever. If I did, and dropped that kind of $ on everything all over again, it probably wouldn't be that big of a deal at that point to buy a new gauge yet again. But I really don't see myself doing that. Yes, most always want more power, but I was on the fence for a very long time about even upping what I currently have.
...I think at the speedhuts price, I might as well get another autometer gauge.
So, do I stay with autometer and drop the coin? (Which with everything else, I'd rather not drop $200 in a guage right now of all things)
Or do I go with the Prosport to get the job done and save?
So, do I stay with autometer and drop the coin? (Which with everything else, I'd rather not drop $200 in a guage right now of all things)
Or do I go with the Prosport to get the job done and save?
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Joined: Jan 2013
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From: Las Vegas
Well u could mount it by itself. I mounted my vac gauge in cup on top the dash on top the instrument trim plastic right where a tach would normally go. I really like it there even though it dos obscure the road view some right in front. Fools everyone into thinking its a tach. But ya know i like watching the vac gauge as tells me real time the condition of engine - loaded, lugging. And i can see diagnose any problems right away - loss of compression = low vac, erratic needle = bad valve.
Ya if its different entirely gauge then mount it in cup on its own and find another auto meter gauge for the pod hole - temp, press, etc.
cardo
Ya if its different entirely gauge then mount it in cup on its own and find another auto meter gauge for the pod hole - temp, press, etc.
cardo
Okay, I took a break from the car today. Will get back on it tomorrow.
Here is a pick of the setup though.
Now, it does look a little different/better than this pic currently. It has the sheet metal valve covers, a new much cleaner alternator, and some stainless braided lines. I'll get a new pic after I clean up the engine bay.
I can get the auto meter gauge from a buddies shop locally, and he cut me a good deal on it at $175. I'm just gonna swap the map sensor and the gauge. If the new one doesn't work either, then I'll know its a wiring problem and not my gauge and I can return it.
I decided to go Autometer after researching the cheaper gauge sometimes goes bad (you get what you pay for). The SpeedHut gauge was actually a really good gauge, but at the same price as the autometer gauge, I just wanted to stay with matching gauges.
So tomorrow, I'll clean up the car a little more (concentrating on under the hood mostly), after I replace the rubber plug with the silicone one.
Here is a pick of the setup though.
Now, it does look a little different/better than this pic currently. It has the sheet metal valve covers, a new much cleaner alternator, and some stainless braided lines. I'll get a new pic after I clean up the engine bay.
I can get the auto meter gauge from a buddies shop locally, and he cut me a good deal on it at $175. I'm just gonna swap the map sensor and the gauge. If the new one doesn't work either, then I'll know its a wiring problem and not my gauge and I can return it.
I decided to go Autometer after researching the cheaper gauge sometimes goes bad (you get what you pay for). The SpeedHut gauge was actually a really good gauge, but at the same price as the autometer gauge, I just wanted to stay with matching gauges.
So tomorrow, I'll clean up the car a little more (concentrating on under the hood mostly), after I replace the rubber plug with the silicone one.
So, here's the latest on the progress of my steel brake brackets. My buddy said he should have them done by Wednesday late afternoon. I'm hoping by Wednesday evening, I can have the car ready to test them out.
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Verdad Gallardo Banned
Joined: Jan 2013
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From: Las Vegas
Looks great to me. Is yours intercooled? Don't see any in the pic. Or is that the reason for the meth injection?
Sorry i don't know much 'bout supercharging so i have to ask why the stock intake doesn't work? Procharger advertises with a stock one. Why the single plane conversion? Any blowoff valve?
Thx for the pic,
cardo
Sorry i don't know much 'bout supercharging so i have to ask why the stock intake doesn't work? Procharger advertises with a stock one. Why the single plane conversion? Any blowoff valve?
Thx for the pic,
cardo
Yeah, it has a large FMIC (Front Mount Inter Cooler). The meth injection just helps it further. Like most things with my build, there was what I needed to keep things safe, then I took it a step further.
I had a stock hand ported intake for years. It ran fine but wanted more airflow for the large cam and maxed out D1SC supercharger. The intake is actually a Super Vic EFI intake. The sheet metal elbow is what you mostly see in the pic.
I had a stock hand ported intake for years. It ran fine but wanted more airflow for the large cam and maxed out D1SC supercharger. The intake is actually a Super Vic EFI intake. The sheet metal elbow is what you mostly see in the pic.
Okay, I got the rubber plug on the radiator swapped for the silicone one (glad I did, as it was cracked pretty bad).
I cleaned up under the hood.
Also, this is the latest on my brake brackets. My buddy is fabricating them out of scratch. If we did diagnose correctly that my aluminum ones were flexing before, these steel ones should do the trick (I don't see this metal flexing at all).
All I have left tonight is I'm gonna pull the boost gauge out and have everything ready to go for tomorrow evening when I get the new brake brackets and new boost gauge. Its possible if its not too late, and I'm not too rushed, I may get the practice runs in on video if you all would like.
I cleaned up under the hood.
Also, this is the latest on my brake brackets. My buddy is fabricating them out of scratch. If we did diagnose correctly that my aluminum ones were flexing before, these steel ones should do the trick (I don't see this metal flexing at all).
All I have left tonight is I'm gonna pull the boost gauge out and have everything ready to go for tomorrow evening when I get the new brake brackets and new boost gauge. Its possible if its not too late, and I'm not too rushed, I may get the practice runs in on video if you all would like.
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Joined: Jan 2013
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From: Las Vegas
Thx for the pix CALL. So from what i understand is the blowoff vlv works on delta press across the throttle plate. So that if the throttle goes shut at high rpm the blowoff vlv protects the super charger and plumbing instead of the engine - since the throttles are closed.
And the engine overpress protection is in the pulley selection for desired rpm. Is that how it works or something else?
Wow thats a lot of plumbing and hard work. Have u seen the Chassis Works gear driven supercharger mount? I've seen them at the strip and fast as heck - but nothing on the street: http://www.cachassisworks.com/cac_pr...ger-drive.html
cardo
Cardo, the BOV works to relieve the pressure from the supercharger or turbo. When you shift (more for the open throttle, high RPM, high boost shifts) it specifically relieves the pressure in your system as the throttle body shuts its plates and the engine isn't pulling the pressure in. There are many different options a a available.
I can't say I have seen something like your link before, but I don't really see the advantages of it. My blower maxes out at 6750 RPM. My cam makes most of its power up top as well, the car is setup just how I want the power band. If I were to change it to max out somewhere else, it would be much less efficient. Not to mention, I can't understand how it wouldn't throw your tune off also as if you are changing something like that your tune would have to reflect the change to be accurate.
I can't say I have seen something like your link before, but I don't really see the advantages of it. My blower maxes out at 6750 RPM. My cam makes most of its power up top as well, the car is setup just how I want the power band. If I were to change it to max out somewhere else, it would be much less efficient. Not to mention, I can't understand how it wouldn't throw your tune off also as if you are changing something like that your tune would have to reflect the change to be accurate.
Brackets are done.
They were not stainless, so I just sprayed them.
I'm sorry the pics are upside down. I posted them via my cell phone, and it does that sometimes.
They were not stainless, so I just sprayed them.
I'm sorry the pics are upside down. I posted them via my cell phone, and it does that sometimes.
Last edited by CALL911; Aug 21, 2013 at 10:46 PM.
That motha sounds pissed in that vid! Couldn't hear the exh pop over that raging beast on your hands. Damn....I really need to get mine back up and runnin after hearing that. Can't wait to see some quality vids on that sucker Ben.
Well, I tried to get one tonight, but went to grab the camera, and the battery was dead (and the spare).
The good news is that the brackets seemed to work (or at least for my quick test run), the alternator bracket is still in place, and the exhaust leak hasn't come back.
The bad news is that my new boost gauge is showing the same as the old one (no boost). I won't be able to mess with it tomorrow, but I'll dig into it Friday. I'm going to see if I can pop the line off and get a vacuum tester on it to see if there's a leak. Then I'll go through and check the wiring (which I suck at).
All in all, not bad. The brakes had been stressing me for a while, so I'm glad that's looking like its fixed.
Silas, you do need to get your going! I promise video later. There's a remote possibility I may run my buddies 03 Cobra (Whipple, high boost, e85) on Saturday, and if so, I'll try to get that on video.
The good news is that the brackets seemed to work (or at least for my quick test run), the alternator bracket is still in place, and the exhaust leak hasn't come back.
The bad news is that my new boost gauge is showing the same as the old one (no boost). I won't be able to mess with it tomorrow, but I'll dig into it Friday. I'm going to see if I can pop the line off and get a vacuum tester on it to see if there's a leak. Then I'll go through and check the wiring (which I suck at).
All in all, not bad. The brakes had been stressing me for a while, so I'm glad that's looking like its fixed.
Silas, you do need to get your going! I promise video later. There's a remote possibility I may run my buddies 03 Cobra (Whipple, high boost, e85) on Saturday, and if so, I'll try to get that on video.