LukeSMaroonMachine

So while showing my car off to my cousins, you know riding it real hard, I noticed that it had good power from a stand still or roll but was taking what I feel was around 8 seconds to hit 60. And thats slow for a stock lt1 which mine is not. Around this time my check engine light came on. I drove cautiously the rest of the way home checked the code and found it is the 43 knock sensor code. After checking the sensor and wiring I replaced the knock sensor. The wiring had 4.9v whith key on. The old sensor read 3.2 mega ohms. After replacing the sensor it seemed to perform better but still not as good as I hoped it would (keep in mind im pretty sure it hasnt ran like it should since i got it so its hard to establish a baseline performance). Then the other day the code pops back up. Im not sure whats wrong. Any suggestions would be great since a ticket limits me from taking it to a shop.

Ed Wright

iTrader: (1)

While the code 43 is present your timing is backed up. That does kill performance.

LukeSMaroonMachine

Yea I figured that but I have good voltage on the wire and I tested the new sensor before I put it in and it tested good. So I dont know why im still getting the code.

Ed Wright

iTrader: (1)

It's obviously failing the test at startup. Do you ever see knock retard on the scan tool?

LukeSMaroonMachine

Can that be checked on obd1 because my car is a 94 lt1. I know my tool cant do anything but give me codes.

SprayedLT1

iTrader: (8)

Did you torque the new sensor to spec or just throw it in and go until tight? Those knock sensors are sensitive to being overtight, and if you overtighten it, it should be replaced again.

Speedy

Disconnect the knock sensor and see if the code continues.

It could be something knocking in the engine that is setting off the sensor.

Ed Wright

iTrader: (1)

Of course all that can be checked on OBD1 systems. Evidently you only have a code reader, not a scanner.

Unplugging the knock sensor like another guy suggested will still set the code 43, and have the same effect.

LukeSMaroonMachine

I did not torque it to any spec because I could not find spec for it in my manual. What it the spec for it?

Are those scanners expensive?

transbird95

iTrader: (4)

If you have a laptop with usb ports you can get the software for free. you will need a adl cable but they are cheap. It is hard to find an inexpensive obd1 scanner with live data. Could try ebay?

LukeSMaroonMachine

Ok cool whats a good software to get?

Ed Wright

iTrader: (1)

The best is Datamaster from TTS.

LukeSMaroonMachine

Is the torque spec for that listed in the Haynes manual? If so where because i could not find out when i looked

SprayedLT1

iTrader: (8)

The torque spec is 14 lb ft. Also make sure you have some teflon thread sealer tape on there

LukeSMaroonMachine

Well im sure I got it tighter then that so I gues I will have to get a new one. Now I know better.

BALLSS

just losen it and TQ to spec

Ed Wright

iTrader: (1)

What he ^^ said.

If your tuner zeroed out the retard vs KPA table, it will do the same thing.

SprayedLT1

iTrader: (8)

You can try removing it and putting it back in, but when I went through the same ordeal a loooong time ago mine had to be replaced. Just sayin

LukeSMaroonMachine

Yea I got a new one under warranty just have to put it in.