355 c.i. nitrous build advice...
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355 c.i. nitrous build advice...
So I have an extra LT1 laying around. Want to start a strip build for it.
I'm 99.9 percent sure I wanna go 355 c.i with the Advanced Induction 200 cc head cam package.
Now I also want to throw a 200-250 shot at this motor. I am alien to rotating assemblies/ pistons all that good stuff. I am not trying to buy tye best of the best but I also dont want junk.
I know the saying is cheap fast reliable you can only pick two. Im not trying to be a tight *** but not trying to go callies dragonslayer prices either.
Can somebody point me in the right direction as to what crank, pistons, rods etc I will need for this kind of goal.
Oh and for what its worth I dont plan spinning past 7k. Dont want to deal with changing ecu out and all that.
I'm 99.9 percent sure I wanna go 355 c.i with the Advanced Induction 200 cc head cam package.
Now I also want to throw a 200-250 shot at this motor. I am alien to rotating assemblies/ pistons all that good stuff. I am not trying to buy tye best of the best but I also dont want junk.
I know the saying is cheap fast reliable you can only pick two. Im not trying to be a tight *** but not trying to go callies dragonslayer prices either.
Can somebody point me in the right direction as to what crank, pistons, rods etc I will need for this kind of goal.
Oh and for what its worth I dont plan spinning past 7k. Dont want to deal with changing ecu out and all that.
#2
Just find a decent rod and forged piston. Stock crank will be fine. Have them balanced. Hope ur car is setup right. Thats about 600rwhp. Ur going to need a upgraded rear,trans, driveshaft ect...
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I went with a Scat 4340 crank and Scat 4340 I beam rods on my stroker build. 4 bolt splayed block and internally balanced. Mahle forged flat top pistons and AI 200cc heads cam and ported lt1 intake. On a 200 shot the car laid down 701 to the rear wheels. And am on my third season with this setup. Did dump the 60e though. They will not withstand that kind of abuse I don't care who says they will. I have had several built by the best and they all lasted about a year apiece. Went to a built TH400 with trans brake and reverse manual valve body. It's on it's third season also with no problems what so ever.
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I went with a Scat 4340 crank and Scat 4340 I beam rods on my stroker build. 4 bolt splayed block and internally balanced. Mahle forged flat top pistons and AI 200cc heads cam and ported lt1 intake. On a 200 shot the car laid down 701 to the rear wheels. And am on my third season with this setup. Did dump the 60e though. They will not withstand that kind of abuse I don't care who says they will. I have had several built by the best and they all lasted about a year apiece. Went to a built TH400 with trans brake and reverse manual valve body. It's on it's third season also with no problems what so ever.
And that means your car is making around 500 wheel on motor? What are you spinning to?
Last edited by HarleyZ28; 08-14-2013 at 08:41 AM.
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7000 on the bottle. It's the car in my sig. 96 impala ss and has gone 6.28 in the 1/8th and 9.91@ 135 in the 1/4 and weighs 4200 lbs. am running a PTC nitrous converter and love it. Car went 11.01@121 N/A. and car still uses the LT1 computer and a opticrap.
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He has a 385ci motor though. 200 shot really isn't that much. 200 has been done on the stock block. If you are trying to build a dedicated Nitrous motor then there are things that need to be done that is different than typical builds. These differences get larger with more Nitrous use. Remember that you make tons of torque with Nitrous so the trans has to be able to hold it.
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He has a 385ci motor though. 200 shot really isn't that much. 200 has been done on the stock block. If you are trying to build a dedicated Nitrous motor then there are things that need to be done that is different than typical builds. These differences get larger with more Nitrous use. Remember that you make tons of torque with Nitrous so the trans has to be able to hold it.
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I went with a Scat 4340 crank and Scat 4340 I beam rods on my stroker build. 4 bolt splayed block and internally balanced. Mahle forged flat top pistons and AI 200cc heads cam and ported lt1 intake. On a 200 shot the car laid down 701 to the rear wheels. And am on my third season with this setup. Did dump the 60e though. They will not withstand that kind of abuse I don't care who says they will. I have had several built by the best and they all lasted about a year apiece. Went to a built TH400 with trans brake and reverse manual valve body. It's on it's third season also with no problems what so ever.
As others said, if you replace the crank make sure it is at least a 4340. You can always rock the stock crank for a budget build.