Edelbrock LT4 airgap on AFR 227 heads
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Edelbrock LT4 airgap on AFR 227 heads
I bought a longblock awhile back that has a (supposedly) Edelbrock airgap LT4 intake on AFR 227 heads. I've gotten the itch to work on the new motor lately so today I pulled it out and took a closer look at it. I noticed that the gap between the bottom of the intake and the front/rear rails of the lifter valley seems really big, its like 1/4 of an inch. The motor was running when I bought it and it had a huge thick bead of silicone in these areas.
The heads and intake aren't torqued down but here are some pics:
I looked up the differences between LT1 and LT4 manifolds thinking maybe it actually had an LT1 version of the airgap. Supposedly the difference is the amount of material underneath the intake ports. Mine looks like it has more material than an LT1 so I'm pretty sure it is the LT4. The casting number is 7107 but from what I found even the LT4 version has the same casting number as the LT1 version it is just machined differently.
Has anyone else noticed this issue with AFR 227 heads?
The heads and intake aren't torqued down but here are some pics:
I looked up the differences between LT1 and LT4 manifolds thinking maybe it actually had an LT1 version of the airgap. Supposedly the difference is the amount of material underneath the intake ports. Mine looks like it has more material than an LT1 so I'm pretty sure it is the LT4. The casting number is 7107 but from what I found even the LT4 version has the same casting number as the LT1 version it is just machined differently.
Has anyone else noticed this issue with AFR 227 heads?
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The GM LT4 intake has more material ABOVE the intake ports.
The way the intake goes all the way up to the valvecover rail suggests it is LT4.
There is supposed to be a gap at the china wall, but that does look like kind of a lot. Maybe just the combination of aftermarket stuff sitting tall????
The way the intake goes all the way up to the valvecover rail suggests it is LT4.
There is supposed to be a gap at the china wall, but that does look like kind of a lot. Maybe just the combination of aftermarket stuff sitting tall????
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The GM LT4 intake has more material ABOVE the intake ports.
The way the intake goes all the way up to the valvecover rail suggests it is LT4.
There is supposed to be a gap at the china wall, but that does look like kind of a lot. Maybe just the combination of aftermarket stuff sitting tall????
The way the intake goes all the way up to the valvecover rail suggests it is LT4.
There is supposed to be a gap at the china wall, but that does look like kind of a lot. Maybe just the combination of aftermarket stuff sitting tall????
Its gunna be a beast. 385 stroker with Callies Dragonslayer crank, Oliver billet I-beam rods, custom diamond pistons. I plan on running a F1C/R Procharger on E85 with it.
Last edited by Valkyn; 08-30-2013 at 10:25 PM.
#5
My Supervic had a thin strip of metal welded to it to take up that gap on my AFR 220s. Pretty normal for different motors to have variances like that due to differences in milled heads, decked blocks, head and intake gasket thickness, etc.
You can't really do much besides fill it in, since anything you change to make it sit lower will in turn cause your intake ports to not line up properly or not seal correctly.
You can't really do much besides fill it in, since anything you change to make it sit lower will in turn cause your intake ports to not line up properly or not seal correctly.
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While were doing show and tell maybe someone can tell me the point of these things in the oil drain back hole is:
My new engine has them but they've been cut off about 1/4" above the taper near the bottom. Not sure why you would want to plug up the oil drain back holes?
My new engine has them but they've been cut off about 1/4" above the taper near the bottom. Not sure why you would want to plug up the oil drain back holes?
#7
^^vent tubes. Those are used to force the oil to drain back down at the back of the engine, so it doesn't spill all over the camshaft.
As for the intake fitment, Puck nailed it. The block has probably been decked a bit, heads milled, etc, etc. A big bead of silicone will still seal it good if you take your time and apply it correctly.
As for the intake fitment, Puck nailed it. The block has probably been decked a bit, heads milled, etc, etc. A big bead of silicone will still seal it good if you take your time and apply it correctly.
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^^vent tubes. Those are used to force the oil to drain back down at the back of the engine, so it doesn't spill all over the camshaft.
As for the intake fitment, Puck nailed it. The block has probably been decked a bit, heads milled, etc, etc. A big bead of silicone will still seal it good if you take your time and apply it correctly.
As for the intake fitment, Puck nailed it. The block has probably been decked a bit, heads milled, etc, etc. A big bead of silicone will still seal it good if you take your time and apply it correctly.
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The picture of the lifter valley isnt my shortblock, it just has the standpipes in the oil drainback holes like mine does so I found it on google. Its from this link: http://www.ellweinengines.com/misc/SK/SK.htm
Mine does not have bronze bushed lifter bores or polydyn on the pistons unfortunetly.
Mine does not have bronze bushed lifter bores or polydyn on the pistons unfortunetly.