LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

One more cam question! UPDATE

Old Sep 2, 2013 | 10:16 PM
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Default One more cam question! UPDATE

I currently have AI 200cc heads, a 228/234, 610/610 cam, I think 108. Also 1.6rr, the typical goodies that you need on a basically stock rebuilt block. I was looking at some of the grinds that AI has and was wondering if I could squeeze a little more power out of my setup with a bigger cam, 234/242 maybe? I see that I would need a bigger stall, but new parts are fun anyways. I currently have a 3k stall which is why I think I got the cam I did. I chose to let AI pick it for me.

Last edited by ascastil; Sep 19, 2013 at 10:20 PM.
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Old Sep 3, 2013 | 10:49 AM
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I got an email from AI saying im missing about 50-60 rwhp. Was told to check for intake/exhaust restriction, leakdown test, tune, etc. My exhaust is pacesetter longtubes, 2.5" true duals, dynomax bullets. Is this too small or should i step up to 3" duals?
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Old Sep 3, 2013 | 11:25 AM
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Without even asking you what your current power numbers are, I'll pretty much guarantee you that your current 228/234 cam is not holding you back.
Get all the other issues sorted out like they told you, and that cam is good for well over 400 SAE at the wheels through an A4. It's putting over 425 to the wheels in both my 350 and a buddy's 385.
A good 2.5" dual system with X-pipe and non-restrictive mufflers will support over 400 rwhp.
Going to more cam at this point is pretty certain to give you a net loss to your overall power curve.
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Old Sep 3, 2013 | 12:00 PM
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I agree. I'd seriously consider 3" with X pipe. Mufflers, we'll that's kinda hard to say one way or the other. I personally like flowmasters. People will agree/disagree with them. Magna flow is another good one. Please post up what happens. Gl
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Old Sep 3, 2013 | 05:16 PM
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The 228/234 cam makes peak about 64-6500 and is still making good steam at 7000. I see you have the 24x system so you could run more rpm but then you are going to really get into needing 4.10s over the 3.73s.

IMO find the missing HP then consider more stall and more gear. bowtienut has proven that cam capable of 10s in a 3800lbs car, till you make your lighter car at least come close to that a cam is the wrong thing to be looking at.
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Old Sep 3, 2013 | 06:15 PM
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Good info. My dyno was 371/320 and pretty smooth. I was thinking with a smooth graph it indicated all was well. I wonder how hard its gonna be to find the missing power???
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Old Sep 4, 2013 | 08:53 PM
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A local guy had a 383 with a similar AI top end kit, and it never performed. The "missing 50+ hp" was finally found to be the wrong intake gaskets hanging down into the ports......classic inept assembly work.
I'd be looking for similar issues with your engine.
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Old Sep 5, 2013 | 04:31 AM
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Someone I know had tried to go "all new" with his heads/cam swap and the car felt like a bolton car. No discernible miss or anything. Eventually after trying everything else he started swapping old parts back on and it turned out the new ICM had been the culprit. Putting the old one on gave him the power that had been expected.
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Old Sep 19, 2013 | 10:25 PM
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Think I found some power! Took the car to a shop a lot of the guys around here use to get their modded cars worked on. Found out both head gaskets were leaking, passenger side the worst. I dont know what I did wrong but they said the head bolts were barely tightened down, some wayyyy looser than others. ARP hardware with a torque wrench and correct sequence. I had a suspicion about this and I am excited to get it back on the dyno. I also finally had my subframe connectors welded in, they have been sitting under my bed for about 6 months. Any guesses on power gains?
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Old Sep 20, 2013 | 05:19 AM
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Did you use moly lube under the bolt heads?
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Old Sep 20, 2013 | 05:29 AM
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Originally Posted by RamAir95TA
Did you use moly lube under the bolt heads?
I believe so, i think some sorta lube came with the bolts but cant remember.
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