High Pressure Oil Pump
Stock. Had to cut and bend it a bit to get it to fit over 4-bolt mains. The readings are not accurate, however. I know when the oil level is at the "Add" part of the dipstick that it is full. 
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 11
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Completely not necessary if you are running stock bearing clearances on your engine. Higher pressure does not mean better lubrication.
http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/adva...5/#post4458190
http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/adva...5/#post4458190
Appreciate the link. Very good information.
The higher the oil pressure, especially if you're running stock bearing clearances, the more strain on the pump, the bypass spring, the drive gear on the distributor, and the oil filter case.
IMHO, if you're running auto-x, you need an oil pan that will control the oil from sloshing, more than you need a high pressure pump.
IMHO, if you're running auto-x, you need an oil pan that will control the oil from sloshing, more than you need a high pressure pump.
I would tend to agree, however, the dry sump pump on a SBC usually mounts to the engine right about where the steering rack and column connect on a 4th gen Camaro/Firebird....
Thanks just got off the phone with Lashway Motorsports and they recommended this same pump for my build.
Very true. I should have clarified though. Bearing clearances will be a couple thousands looser. Flow will be mandatory for my bearing clearances as well as pressure. Considering too much pressure inhibits oil flow. Oil ill be running is 20W-40 SynPower. Considering it gets pretty hot here in southern florida. Nothing too loose though to the point of spun bearings after every season. Our balancing, clearances, tune, lubrication have to be spot on for the motor to live. My goal for the oiling system is a high flow, high pressure. RPM’s will be stressing the stock bottom end, especially with the SR cam im running. I wont be max efforting (for the lack of a better word) this cam for now. The stock pistons + PCM will limit my choice to 7000rpm with a few degrees of timing pulled. Its more of a test/warmup build (Sounds like a waste) until im ready to throw in some Mahle PowerPack pistons. Then with the same cam 7500 will allow the cam to breath to its potential.
Appreciate the link. Very good information.
Ill be running a Moroso 20185 pan with a Fluidyne all season 58mm shrouded DB30613. Like I said earlier Dry-sump will be a logical move, but for my mild goals for now a wet sump should be fine until the second phase of the motor build is ready.
Very true. I should have clarified though. Bearing clearances will be a couple thousands looser. Flow will be mandatory for my bearing clearances as well as pressure. Considering too much pressure inhibits oil flow. Oil ill be running is 20W-40 SynPower. Considering it gets pretty hot here in southern florida. Nothing too loose though to the point of spun bearings after every season. Our balancing, clearances, tune, lubrication have to be spot on for the motor to live. My goal for the oiling system is a high flow, high pressure. RPM’s will be stressing the stock bottom end, especially with the SR cam im running. I wont be max efforting (for the lack of a better word) this cam for now. The stock pistons + PCM will limit my choice to 7000rpm with a few degrees of timing pulled. Its more of a test/warmup build (Sounds like a waste) until im ready to throw in some Mahle PowerPack pistons. Then with the same cam 7500 will allow the cam to breath to its potential.
Appreciate the link. Very good information.
Ill be running a Moroso 20185 pan with a Fluidyne all season 58mm shrouded DB30613. Like I said earlier Dry-sump will be a logical move, but for my mild goals for now a wet sump should be fine until the second phase of the motor build is ready.
Smaller journals use less oil clearance.
You likely won't need to add more than .001" oil clearance.
I had to clearance some of the rails for the filter area, I got lucky and didn't have any pin holes. Some of the allen head bolts holding the screen in were loose too. Not the worst pan I've ever seen but not worth the money. The Stef's has a billet front and back so it was really easy to seal up. Has to be drilled for the dipstick, but I never use one now.
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Verdad Gallardo The wait is the reason I don't have one. Screwed around too long to order. Had to settle for a off the shelf Moroso. It's steel. Not as slick as a Stef's, but is built like I think it should be, fits great and no leaks welds. Dave's Reher had some input on the design, so I think it is fine. I pretty much think David hung the moon as far as race engines go. I've known him since Bobby Cross was driving their Maverick before he & Buddy opened their business.
The wait is the reason I don't have one. Screwed around too long to order. Had to settle for a off the shelf Moroso. It's steel. Not as slick as a Stef's, but is built like I think it should be, fits great and no leaks welds. Dave's Reher had some input on the design, so I think it is fine. I pretty much think David hung the moon as far as race engines go. I've known him since Bobby Cross was driving their Maverick before he & Buddy opened their business.
How do you think I knew the were loose, I checked it.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 11
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If you add "a couple of thousandths" bearing clearances you will be screwing up. That is too much. Don't to that. No more than .0025" for the rods. No more than .003" for the mains. The fast guys don't run stock diameter rod or main journals.
Smaller journals use less oil clearance.
You likely won't need to add more than .001" oil clearance.
Smaller journals use less oil clearance.
You likely won't need to add more than .001" oil clearance.
