Best bang-for-your-buck heads?
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#23
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There are tons of great porters out there that can do awesome things. The question is - which one do you want to use, and how much cashola do you have? Haha.
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The amount of 'Cashola' isn't very big which is why my expectations aren't very big lol. I'm wanting to finish the project with in between 3-4k spent.
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Oh really? I've always heard of people spending several thousand and getting hardly anywhere. I don't have an actual HP goal. I'm just wanting a car that can can kick some *** on the highway but isn't too brutal to me on cruising through traffic either. Pretty much would most 20-year-olds want.
#27
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I don't know what year your car is but there's only 2 casting number stock heads that AI or LE will port, 374 and 643, mostly from the 92-95 LT1s, they had more meat. The 561s flowed best from the factory but have less meat for porting, pull your valvecover to see if you have them. Either way hop on Craigslist and find a used set of 374 or 643s to send to get ported so you have no downtime and don't have to pay the core charge, then sell your stockers for the same price when your done (~$150)
Last edited by bufmatmuslepants; 09-16-2013 at 07:06 AM.
#29
I'm in a different situation. The previous owner actually paid someone to destroy the heads on my 95. Put in 2.02" intakes and 1.6" exhaust valves and then opened up the combustion chambers. Can't get the valves to seat because the valves are as large as the seat. It's at the point I need to start over. So I'm looking at aftermarket heads because by time I find/purchase/send out to be modded and get them back in my hands a set of AFR's or ??? will be a lot easier and most likely less $$$
Advice would be welcome If I could pull it off I'd replace the short block with a old school 406. But the issues with getting a intake and carb under the cowl and dealing with all the other problems is not very appealing. A LS1 swap would be as easy but I really don't want to do either. The LT1 is going to stay at least for the foreseeable future..
Al 95Z almost stock LT1 with barfed heads..... Best ET 12.17...
Advice would be welcome If I could pull it off I'd replace the short block with a old school 406. But the issues with getting a intake and carb under the cowl and dealing with all the other problems is not very appealing. A LS1 swap would be as easy but I really don't want to do either. The LT1 is going to stay at least for the foreseeable future..
Al 95Z almost stock LT1 with barfed heads..... Best ET 12.17...
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Another one here voting against LE . He was great with questions and anything I had, disappointed with the headwork though. I had to have the seats and valves reground on mine. Also had to have all the valve guides replaced right off the hop due to excessive play and wear. Was only offered a discount on parts. My next set of heads will be from else where
#31
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Another one here voting against LE . He was great with questions and anything I had, disappointed with the headwork though. I had to have the seats and valves reground on mine. Also had to have all the valve guides replaced right off the hop due to excessive play and wear. Was only offered a discount on parts. My next set of heads will be from else where
#32
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Le2 heads . The guides were worn excessively. The valve would rock back and forth inside the guide with the head on the bench. Not very happy spending 1000+ on heads just to have to spend another 600 on them to get them where they need to be
#33
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Hey guys, I've been away for a while. Honestly just lost interest in the car, didn't sell it but lost interest. Kinda want to get back in the game, AI has made a top of the line product since I can remember. I've spoken to both companies and I've always thought Lloyd to be a nice guy and just awesome to talk to. For my money though, I'm probably going AI and I think I Like the 212cc 21° head. Anyone running those?
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I can't speak for anyone else, but my LE heads were very nicely done. He did port enough to break through the intake wall at the rocker stud/center head bolt hole, but this is very common with fully ported SBC heads. VERY common, and not harmful to the head or flow at all. A little sealant on the washer or rocker bolt threads is all that's required.
AI vs LE - well that is a stupid debate.. and everyone can have their opinion. I see to much LE bashing from AI guys... that never have had experience with LE. The performance difference isn't as great as it is made out to be. AI is a good company for sure - not worlds ahead of LEs work though. They have the consistency of a CNC port that is the ONLY advantage. Lloyd does not have the control over his cams either that AI does, so they have one up on him there to.
AI vs LE - well that is a stupid debate.. and everyone can have their opinion. I see to much LE bashing from AI guys... that never have had experience with LE. The performance difference isn't as great as it is made out to be. AI is a good company for sure - not worlds ahead of LEs work though. They have the consistency of a CNC port that is the ONLY advantage. Lloyd does not have the control over his cams either that AI does, so they have one up on him there to.
#37
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To the original topic, my vote is LE1s. For $800 you get assembled ready to go heads that flow more than stock trickflows. Every $ more spent, be it AI or LE2 or LE3 you get less return in added hp. After a certain point building motors, each additional hp increases the cost exponentially.
#38
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It all depends on your goals for the car.
If you just want a 12 second cruiser with decent power, then you can pick a good cam and either run stock heads or some of the cheaper ones from Lloyd. Use a .026 gasket for a bump in compression and let it ride.
If you feel like you may end up wanting more down the road or you want a solid 11 or 10 second ride with over 400rwhp, then I'd go with the AI 200s, no question.
With cylinder heads, there's really no way to find a cheap one that performs at a high level, so bang for the buck is a relative term here.
You do get the diminishing returns mentioned once you start spending big $ on aftermarket castings and the neccesary subsequent port work and assembly, but that's the only way to get in the top percentile of NA LTx builds. Case in point, the $3000+ AI 215 CC Trickflows are probably only good for about 20-40 rwhp over the $1800 AI 200CC stock castings on a given shortblock, everything else being the same. That number of 20-40 NA rwhp only means a lot to a small percentage of folks when most budgets are factored in.
This is only my opinion also, but I think that if you're running a set of stock or mildly cleaned up heads, there are plenty of shelf cams out there that will get you where you want to be. The expense and whatnot of a full custom grind just isn't neccesary here unless you care about differences of 5-8rwhp that much.
If you just want a 12 second cruiser with decent power, then you can pick a good cam and either run stock heads or some of the cheaper ones from Lloyd. Use a .026 gasket for a bump in compression and let it ride.
If you feel like you may end up wanting more down the road or you want a solid 11 or 10 second ride with over 400rwhp, then I'd go with the AI 200s, no question.
With cylinder heads, there's really no way to find a cheap one that performs at a high level, so bang for the buck is a relative term here.
You do get the diminishing returns mentioned once you start spending big $ on aftermarket castings and the neccesary subsequent port work and assembly, but that's the only way to get in the top percentile of NA LTx builds. Case in point, the $3000+ AI 215 CC Trickflows are probably only good for about 20-40 rwhp over the $1800 AI 200CC stock castings on a given shortblock, everything else being the same. That number of 20-40 NA rwhp only means a lot to a small percentage of folks when most budgets are factored in.
This is only my opinion also, but I think that if you're running a set of stock or mildly cleaned up heads, there are plenty of shelf cams out there that will get you where you want to be. The expense and whatnot of a full custom grind just isn't neccesary here unless you care about differences of 5-8rwhp that much.
#39
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This is only my opinion also, but I think that if you're running a set of stock or mildly cleaned up heads, there are plenty of shelf cams out there that will get you where you want to be. The expense and whatnot of a full custom grind just isn't neccesary here unless you care about differences of 5-8rwhp that much.
A custom cam can and will make a huge difference in the right hands. I know that my supplier/cam grinder guarantees at least two tenths faster in the quarter mile from cam change alone (from whatever your current cam is). None of those other manufacturers will make such a guarantee because that's a huge claim to back up.. particularly because some of the cars he deals with are already very optimized, fast builds.
While the cam is certainly not the most important part of the motor, make no mistake.. it's very critical for a good running setup. I'll never run a shelf cam POS ever again.
#40
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http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/lt1-...5/#post5812939
I think his best with the LE crap was in the 117mph range. Not sure of ET. I still think his **** is a turd however.