24x crank hub question?
24x crank hub question? well I have a no fuel and no spark condition going on so I pulled my hub and front cover off to measure the relucter and came across something the hub is deeper then the crank snout. so maybe it is pushing the wheel below the 1" that eficonn requires? but I remeasured it and it comes in at 1" but has anyone seen this before?
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well I have a no fuel and no spark condition going on so I pulled my hub and front cover off to measure the relucter and came across something the hub is deeper then the crank snout. so maybe it is pushing the wheel below the 1" that eficonn requires? but I remeasured it and it comes in at 1" but has anyone seen this before?
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From: Apopka FL
well I have a no fuel and no spark condition going on so I pulled my hub and front cover off to measure the relucter and came across something the hub is deeper then the crank snout. so maybe it is pushing the wheel below the 1" that eficonn requires? but I remeasured it and it comes in at 1" but has anyone seen this before?
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This is not good enough. It is better to confirm a 1 inch measurement from the front of the crank reluctor to the face of the block. The engine in this thread appears to have the reluctor installed correctly. If there is a crank signal issue, I would suspect it is either a bad sensor or bad wiring.
yes it's one inch from the face of the block to the face of the relator, my only concern, other then the no spark n fuel issue is the 1/4 gap that would be present once the hub is tighten down on to the crank. the hub is 1 3/8" deep and the face of the hub to the end of the crank is 1 3/16" so when I tighten it down I will have a gap there I guess I should have been more clear. just glad to check the hub install off the list, next is sensor and wireing trouble shooting so I can get this **** running. just wanted a answer on the hub gap? did some searching the hub I have is the "small" one 3.475 most size's I found were 3.419(96-97) so I believe I have a correct hub.
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I don't see why a gap between the snout of the crank and the bottom of the hub is a concern.
Consider the problems a hub/balancer/damper manufacturer would have if the hub/balancer/damper must seat against the crank timing sprocket and the snout of the crank. The aftermarket is full of crank timing sprockets with varying thicknesses of crank timing sprockets. This would make it impossible to avoid a gap between crank snout and bottom of hub. More than that, thinner crank timing sprockets may never fully seat against the crank if the hub/balancer/damper bottoms out on the crank snout.
Of most importance is that the hub/balancer/damper must pull tight to fully seat the crank timing sprocket. Seating against the crank snout is not important.
Consider the problems a hub/balancer/damper manufacturer would have if the hub/balancer/damper must seat against the crank timing sprocket and the snout of the crank. The aftermarket is full of crank timing sprockets with varying thicknesses of crank timing sprockets. This would make it impossible to avoid a gap between crank snout and bottom of hub. More than that, thinner crank timing sprockets may never fully seat against the crank if the hub/balancer/damper bottoms out on the crank snout.
Of most importance is that the hub/balancer/damper must pull tight to fully seat the crank timing sprocket. Seating against the crank snout is not important.
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Verdad Gallardo now that's what I'm talking about...straight forward answer to a question! Hub is going back on soon as i'm typing...then to test crank sensor, only thing will be getting a scope to check it with. Thanks again Mike. Oh and if you check back to this thread..one more question.. is there a difference between 97' engine coolant temperature sensor(lt1) and say 98-up (ls1) I don't know if the 0411 pcm reads the sensor different then the old LT1 did. Cause I remember back in the day I had to change it cause my 93' wouldn't start because of it. just asking to get info and knowledge
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The LT1 and LS1 coolant temperature sensors are functionally the same. I created a rather exhaustive sensor interchange chart and put it in my book.
http://www.eficonnection.com/eficonn...px?ItemId=1240
http://www.eficonnection.com/eficonn...px?ItemId=1240
The LT1 and LS1 coolant temperature sensors are functionally the same. I created a rather exhaustive sensor interchange chart and put it in my book.
http://www.eficonnection.com/eficonn...px?ItemId=1240
http://www.eficonnection.com/eficonn...px?ItemId=1240
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No - the book does not show you how to adjust the Vortec distributor (loosen the bolt and adjust - use an oscilloscope to watch the signal).
that book looks interesting, might just get a new ect sensor anyways it's been a few years. ugh whats up with you and oscilloscope lol googled them and was ebay'n noticed they range from 50 bucks to whatever the hell you want to pay for one. will those cheepo's do the job for what we need (finding the square wave)
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It's the only tool for troubleshooting a crank signal.
The cheepo's will do the job. Rather than cutting into your wire harness to watch the signal, you can purchase an adapter breakout harness that can be removed after the testing is done.
http://www.eficonnection.com/eficonn...px?ItemId=1073
http://www.eficonnection.com/eficonn...px?ItemId=1073