10 bolt girdles?
10 bolt girdles? Has anyone blown up their 10 bolt running an aluminum girdle? If so, what HP level, trans, tires? I'm just curious as I recently put some 315mm Toyo Proxes TQ DR's on my car (6spd, 383) and now it dead HOOKS on the street! It's like a whole different car than the Sumitomo summer tire I had which I could spin through 4th 
. The old 10 bolt was rebuild 3 years ago back when the car was cam only and doing one wheel peels...so I had 4.10's installed, new Eaton posi, Red line fluid and a TA aluminum girdle thrown on top for good measure (and it looks pretty 
). It supposedly supports the bearing caps and add's fluid capacity and allows it to run cooler. So now, I realize I'm pushing the limit's considering: stroker, 6spd, weaker 4.10 gears, kevlar racing clutch, and DR's. I've been babying it accordingly with no clutch drops ect. Just wondering if this peice is more for "form" or "function"? 
. The old 10 bolt was rebuild 3 years ago back when the car was cam only and doing one wheel peels...so I had 4.10's installed, new Eaton posi, Red line fluid and a TA aluminum girdle thrown on top for good measure (and it looks pretty ). It supposedly supports the bearing caps and add's fluid capacity and allows it to run cooler. So now, I realize I'm pushing the limit's considering: stroker, 6spd, weaker 4.10 gears, kevlar racing clutch, and DR's. I've been babying it accordingly with no clutch drops ect. Just wondering if this peice is more for "form" or "function"? 
Has anyone blown up their 10 bolt running an aluminum girdle? If so, what HP level, trans, tires? I'm just curious as I recently put some 315mm Toyo Proxes TQ DR's on my car (6spd, 383) and now it dead HOOKS on the street! It's like a whole different car than the Sumitomo summer tire I had which I could spin through 4th . The old 10 bolt was rebuild 3 years ago back when the car was cam only and doing one wheel peels...so I had 4.10's installed, new Eaton posi, Red line fluid and a TA aluminum girdle thrown on top for good measure (and it looks pretty ). It supposedly supports the bearing caps and add's fluid capacity and allows it to run cooler. So now, I realize I'm pushing the limit's considering: stroker, 6spd, weaker 4.10 gears, kevlar racing clutch, and DR's. I've been babying it accordingly with no clutch drops ect. Just wondering if this peice is more for "form" or "function"?
. The old 10 bolt was rebuild 3 years ago back when the car was cam only and doing one wheel peels...so I had 4.10's installed, new Eaton posi, Red line fluid and a TA aluminum girdle thrown on top for good measure (and it looks pretty ). It supposedly supports the bearing caps and add's fluid capacity and allows it to run cooler. So now, I realize I'm pushing the limit's considering: stroker, 6spd, weaker 4.10 gears, kevlar racing clutch, and DR's. I've been babying it accordingly with no clutch drops ect. Just wondering if this peice is more for "form" or "function"? 
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 118
Likes: 0
Has anyone blown up their 10 bolt running an aluminum girdle? If so, what HP level, trans, tires? I'm just curious as I recently put some 315mm Toyo Proxes TQ DR's on my car (6spd, 383) and now it dead HOOKS on the street! It's like a whole different car than the Sumitomo summer tire I had which I could spin through 4th . The old 10 bolt was rebuild 3 years ago back when the car was cam only and doing one wheel peels...so I had 4.10's installed, new Eaton posi, Red line fluid and a TA aluminum girdle thrown on top for good measure (and it looks pretty ). It supposedly supports the bearing caps and add's fluid capacity and allows it to run cooler. So now, I realize I'm pushing the limit's considering: stroker, 6spd, weaker 4.10 gears, kevlar racing clutch, and DR's. I've been babying it accordingly with no clutch drops ect. Just wondering if this peice is more for "form" or "function"?
. The old 10 bolt was rebuild 3 years ago back when the car was cam only and doing one wheel peels...so I had 4.10's installed, new Eaton posi, Red line fluid and a TA aluminum girdle thrown on top for good measure (and it looks pretty ). It supposedly supports the bearing caps and add's fluid capacity and allows it to run cooler. So now, I realize I'm pushing the limit's considering: stroker, 6spd, weaker 4.10 gears, kevlar racing clutch, and DR's. I've been babying it accordingly with no clutch drops ect. Just wondering if this peice is more for "form" or "function"? Everything helps, but as many will state from personal experience, one good 'hook' and the weakest link will break.
I had my ring and pinion gears Mirconited (spelling???) as well as having the axle tubes welded and all the other 10-bolt band-aids that are on the interbox. Mine has not broken (yet), but I did break 4 all when I was NA.
Good luck!
I had my ring and pinion gears Mirconited (spelling???) as well as having the axle tubes welded and all the other 10-bolt band-aids that are on the interbox. Mine has not broken (yet), but I did break 4 all when I was NA.
Good luck!
I had one on my 10 Bolt with 4.10's. I did 2, 1.6x 60's with bolt-on power in an M6 but never raced it again after that. I was scared to break it lol.
My advice is just start saving for a 9". With your power and sticky tires, it's a ticking time bomb.
My advice is just start saving for a 9". With your power and sticky tires, it's a ticking time bomb.
Interesting...how much power you making? I can't really justify spending any more $$ on the 10 bolt pulling it apart again when it might blow up at any time though. Guess I should have researched a bit more before I had it rebuilt...
Yeah, need to start saving for a 9" ASAP
Yeah, need to start saving for a 9" ASAP
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In some ways hooking is better than say wheelhop.
A solid spacer is a hassle. Ratch claims their "smartsleeve" is stronger and having used both the smartsleeve is WAY easier to get installed right.
A solid spacer is a hassle. Ratch claims their "smartsleeve" is stronger and having used both the smartsleeve is WAY easier to get installed right.
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Staging Lane
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
From: Chicagoland
I built up my 10 bolt with spacer, ARP stud kit and TA girdle with 4.10s but with the old posi unit. I didn't run sticky tires on it, didn't blow it up but the posi wore out and at that point I decided I didn't want to put any more money into it. If you break a rear and need a tow home then repair or replacement costs, the amount of money to keep a 10 bolt really starts adding up. I've read it's best to build a car from the back forward. I bought a S60 and I'll tell you it is so nice to not have to worry any more about blowing the 10 bolt over something as simple as wailing on the car and running over a frost heave in the road.
Good luck with your 10 bolt, the TA girdle is a very nice piece and it no doubt helps. Long term save up for a rear that will let you put that engine to work.
Tom
Good luck with your 10 bolt, the TA girdle is a very nice piece and it no doubt helps. Long term save up for a rear that will let you put that engine to work.
Tom
I have the girdle on my car, bolt on cam only car with 4.10's on 255 Mickey Thompsons and I busted every tooth on the ring gear but about 4. That was stabbing the throttle on a damn roll. Inevitably you will kill the 10 bolt.
While the bearing caps aren't all that beefy, adding the girdle cover does help them a bit.
HOWEVER, the weak link in these rears is the pinion. Any decent level of torque and hooking and it's just a matter of time-the rear WILL break.
If you're making like 400 HP and hooking with a 10 bolt, consider the rear as your next weak link to blow up.
I like the S60 rears.
HOWEVER, the weak link in these rears is the pinion. Any decent level of torque and hooking and it's just a matter of time-the rear WILL break.
If you're making like 400 HP and hooking with a 10 bolt, consider the rear as your next weak link to blow up.
I like the S60 rears.
Good points made....I'm not fixing it till it breaks! 
I have a Gold member AAA card with 200 miles free towing aren't scared to use it 
But I am going to start saving up a bit for the final piece to make car right so it's not down for month's while I scrounge around for $2000+ for a decent rear end if it decides to go.
I have a Gold member AAA card with 200 miles free towing aren't scared to use it But I am going to start saving up a bit for the final piece to make car right so it's not down for month's while I scrounge around for $2000+ for a decent rear end if it decides to go. I have the girdle on my car, bolt on cam only car with 4.10's on 255 Mickey Thompsons and I busted every tooth on the ring gear but about 4. That was stabbing the throttle on a damn roll. Inevitably you will kill the 10 bolt.
The problem with any 4th gen 10 bolts is the wimpy 7.5" ring gear and the equally tiny pinion gear and no matter what you do to beef it up it's only a bandaid which you will eventually end up replacing with one of the bigger rears. Back when I had a 10 bolt I added Moser forged axles, TA girdle and still broke 2 sets of Richmond 4.10s and one Torsen diff and a Detroit locker!!! Buy the time I rebuilt/upgraded the 10 bolt 3 times I could have (and should have ) brought a 12 bolt, 9", 8.8 or S60!!! After that I bit the bullett and got the S60 and I've never looked back nor do I have any fear of ever breaking the rear again.
