LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

spark wires for lt1 with long headers

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Old Dec 12, 2013 | 02:39 PM
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Default spark wires for lt1 with long headers

Hello everyone. A friend of mine got Lt1 Camaro and wants to change his old wires. I've heard that they can be heat up with long headers, can you help me with choosing right ones for him.
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Old Dec 12, 2013 | 02:55 PM
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I used stock style wires and took extra care when routing them with wire separators and zip ties in stock location to not touch the headers.

Been 4 years and only had one burnt plug wire, just gotta take your time.
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Old Dec 12, 2013 | 03:03 PM
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Sending parts to Russia takes two weeks, so better spend some money now and be sure that those boots will not burn, then understand it during summer and drive bus)
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Old Dec 12, 2013 | 03:25 PM
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if you install any plug wires, use the stock wiring looms and brackets just like factory install and you will be good. This can be tedious to install but is worth doing right, the factory put metel shields on some plug boot ends with stock exhaust manifold if you want to re-use any of those for plug ends that you feel need it. I don't and have zero issues.

I like the Magnacore plug wires 8.5. many also like MSD & Taylor.
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Old Dec 12, 2013 | 04:33 PM
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I use Taylor wires, never an issue with Longtubes....
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Old Dec 12, 2013 | 05:42 PM
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I used Taylor wires, the big 10.4mm race wires. What happened was it started knocking my Exhaust Gas Temp Sensor out halfway down the track.

I switched to a Firecore sleeved universal wire set that is just awesome for my drag car.

For the guy from russia, I would use some decent MSD wires and buy some thermal sleeving. You should be able to find the stuff locally for much cheaper. If you can find the ceramic sleeving it is good up to 2600F, you can basically rest your plug wires on the header with that. I use the sleeving on at LEAST two of the troublesome wires if no the whole set.

If you are good and using zip ties and do it well you can get away without any sleeving.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-wi...eeving/=ps4ymc
That is the thermal sleeve I am talking about.
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Old Dec 12, 2013 | 06:15 PM
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I agree. Taylor 8.5's have been good to me so far. Like ZFreie said its easy to make wire separators with zip ties like this :http://image.sporttruck.com/f/245077...s+zip_ties.jpg

Very effective and cost effective. If you want to take extra precaution you can buy a set of DEI spark plug boot protectors like this:http://www.hotrodandrestoration.com/...Wire-Boots.jpg
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Old Dec 12, 2013 | 06:59 PM
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http://www.cableorganizer.com/insult...cssku=SPB190-8

Good price on quality boots.
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Old Dec 13, 2013 | 12:38 AM
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Thx for everyone for answers. Decided to get Taylor ones.
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Old Dec 13, 2013 | 05:05 AM
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U should have an airspace between the wire and any exh pipe. 1/2" space the best but any space helps. The wire insulation cannot touch the exh pipes or it will fail.

BTW my ACCEL wires with ceramic boots work great.

Good luck,
cardo0
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Old Dec 13, 2013 | 08:30 AM
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No reason to use anything over 8mm wires. You can use the stock locations as long as you use the stock connectors and plug wire rail/sheath to keep them away from the primaries. I have found it much easier to use a longer plug wire for #5 by routing it along the plug wire rail/sheath then turning it around and connecting it to the plug. That way the boot is facing backwards where there is more space from the primary. If you want to go to a larger wire then OVC is the easiest. Use Moroso plug wire looms:

That way you can take the valve covers off w/out having to disturb the wires if need be.
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Old Dec 15, 2013 | 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by cardo0
U should have an airspace between the wire and any exh pipe. 1/2" space the best but any space helps. The wire insulation cannot touch the exh pipes or it will fail.

BTW my ACCEL wires with ceramic boots work great.

Good luck,
cardo0
Can you give me a link to those ceramic boots for Accel wires? Thx
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