96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

A broken retainer in the HOT kit would be somewhat unusual, the main problem is the springs are insufficient for the heavy LT1 valves. In another thread guys are talking about how the power tanks with the kit past 6000rpm and that is weak springs. On a normal mild hydraulic cam setup if power drops fast and hard after peak that is often going to be a valve control issue.

LukeSMaroonMachine

I have been looking for some cam stuff and rear end ect. But the only site iv found that has much of anything is ws6store. I was wondering if you guys have used anyother ones? There doesnt seem to b much out there, from the looking I have done anyhow, for the lt1 cars.

KyleW707

www.texas-speed.com

v8vette84

It seems to be common place to put down the 10 bolt rear in the F-bodies. Truth is most of the grenaded rears are from people abusing them. It will hold up just find to a H/C cam. The difference is when you trying putting slicks on a car with a high stall converter or a Manual that is launched hard...Then is will break. I have had a 10 bolt behind my old camaro with a 6-speed that I swapped in. I beat the hell out of that car and it held up just fine. Make sure it's not good fluid thats all. First cam I ran in my LT was the cc503. Great running cam. My buddy has a cc503 with 4.10's and that thing has no problem lighting up 2nd gear and spinning into 3rd. I run a custom cam now as I have ported heaads but the 503 is a great cam for the DD. I got around 24 mpg running 90 mph on the highway (and i'm kind of a leadfoot haha). Not too shabby.

M6 Swap

iTrader: (1)

I ran Lyod Elliot's le1 package in my 96 and it was awesome!

pillarpod

While your in school I would use this time to look up and research everything you'll need plus how much it will cost. You will be surprised at how fast it adds up. I recommend do NOT start modding your car while your in school. It's gonna drain you every penny you have, or it's going to come out half azz due to the lack of funds.

stngh8r

If your limited on $$ get a stall and bolt ons first. A stall and drag radials will wake that thing up.

LukeSMaroonMachine

Ok so getting drag slicks will that chew up the rear end with it being stock and all?

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

It depends. Wheelhop from bad traction can hurt the axle very badly too. Long as the power level is modest hooking can be easier on the axle than letting it hop.

BALLSS

Op

while you may be able to find a deal on a used cam and valve train parts (springs, PR & rockers) you have to understand that there are risks is buying used parts. Yeah a cam or even the Hot cam "kit" (not the best pic) in itself is not huge $.....it is the cost, time, effort to install them. Then a new tune is required. If you do this without first getting lower gears and a higher stall converter, the new cam will not deliver its potential with stock stall & gears

Installing a cam takes knowledge and tools and with the motor in the car even more difficult. Many drop the motor out which in itself is a significant job.

My $.02 would be focus on some bolt ons, lower gears, higher stall TC and a performance tune for your stock motor. If your valve springs are original you could replace those and add 1:6 RR but a spring swap also requires experience and understanding on wtf needs to happen

ahritchie

iTrader: (1)

My 10 bolt hasn't exploded just yet either....And I've got the worst combo for longevity, 383 with over 400 lb-ft to the wheels, 6spd, Zoom kevlar racing clutch, 4.10's, very sticky DR's....(Knock on wood LOL). I've beat on it for 17 years with street tires. On the positive side, I am running a TA girdle on it, and some redline synthetic "shock proof" gear oil, and it has full rear suspension, so no axle hop; it dead hooks up. I haven't tried any clutch drops over 2000 RPM though with the DR's (don't really need to), and probably won't till my 9" savings fund has reached $2000 or so in case it does blow up.

OP, I say get the Lunati Voodoo 60121, similar to the hotcam/cc503 but newer lobe design and it's something different, I had it on my old cam only combo and loved it, now running the next step up Lunati 60122 on the 383 and am very satisfied with it.

bfd811

Start small, get a set of headers and a good free flowing exhaust for it. If you do a cam even a mild one just remember that its gonna need a tune and for someone to strap it down to a dyno and tune it for you its gonna be at least 300-500 bucks. I got all excited about getting my engine rebuild finished then remembered 2 things as I was about to button up the motor... Stall and a tune... set me back 2 months lol. Got the car all together and the poor ole' 4l60 lasted 3 days. Actually just got the trans back in the car thursday. I too was working hourly when I was building my car and its a balance you gotta find with the money thing or else your gonna be broke and miserable. Just save save save and do it right with the right parts the first time and I guarantee you'll never look back and say damn I wish I had bought those old used worn out rusty valve springs that have been sitting in a box in that guys garage for 9 years for 75 bucks less than the new ones.

LukeSMaroonMachine

Ok well I have mid headers on it and a catback borla exhaust. At this stage, because I just bought it last summer and it had set for 8 years in storage, it needs shocks and some other chassis work. Im going to focus on that now and hadnt thought about it much untill now..... didnt realize it was going to be as much $ as it is. Im planing on going a little cheeper on the shocks though because I figure when I go sc I might want a diff setup themni do now and in 2+years they may need to be replaced anyway. Right now im thinking kyb agx and swaybars. I dont want to lower it really and not sure what springs to do if i even need them.

If I do the rockers and springs will I need to do push rods as well?

exrex0015

I got same car and im going with the cc503 and beehive springs getting also comp retainers and seals do I need anything else and as far as suspension to reduce wheel hop what do you recommend

LukeSMaroonMachine

What kind of gains should I expect out of springs and 1.6 rockers? Will it be worth doing rockers with a stock converter?

ahritchie

iTrader: (1)

+15-20 hp.....yes, it's worth it.

LukeSMaroonMachine

Ok sweet. So how intensive are rockers and springs? They can be done while the engin is in the car right?

HellTeeOne

Yes, you can do rockers and springs in the car.

I'm with the rest of the folks here - finish freshening up the chassis, get a good converter, gears and headers before doing a cam.
Before attempting internal engine mods, all of the supporting bolt-ons must already be in place or you're in for a disappointment. Also, when you do a cam or heads/cam job, set aside ~$600 to get it dyno tuned and work out any bugs that may show up when you're getting everything finished up.

If boost is in your future, I recommend the XE224/236 cam. It does quite well in a stock longblock N/A too, as well if not better than the popular CC503.

There's nothing inherently 'wrong' with the GM hotcam itself, but the springs that come in the kit are junk and I don't care for the SA rockers. There are much better options out there.

nascarnate326

iTrader: (1)

"springs are junk" - still the most popular LT1 kit sold with thousands of cars running it with no problem.

jsflyrv

+1 I agree love it in my LT1 in a 1969 Camaro. Using a 2200 stall bolted to a 700R4 overdrive built by BowTie overdrives.