EFI connection two piece billet timing cover.
#41
#43
We will not. To make a long story short, moving the face of the timing cover forward means problems related to the optispark fitment and problems with the 1x cam reluctor and cam sensor housing we currently have in production. We are not going to pay the tooling costs, sand cast mold cost, additional prototyping for a new 1x cam reluctor and all of the minimums associated with a new set of cam signal components. Customers would be turned off by the increased costs.
#44
Well...it can be done.
What you are looking at:
- segment of our 3D model to verify clearances
- notice timing chain is behind cam sprocket
- cam sprocket has clearance to be removed
It's definitely functional in that you can remove the cam timing sprocket for a cam swap. Reassembly of the cam timing sprocket is going to be very frustrating. Heck, it's frustrating enough without a timing cover in place...now you have half of the timing cover in your way.
However, this solution is better than pulling the crank hub and dropping the oil pan.
Thoughts? Go to production?
#45
I agree, this is still a better solution than removing the crank and dropping the oil pan. I think this should be a go for production. Especially considering this appears to be a straight forward change to the original production design without too many obstacles. I know I want one as soon as they are available.
#47
Well...it can be done.
What you are looking at:
It's definitely functional in that you can remove the cam timing sprocket for a cam swap. Reassembly of the cam timing sprocket is going to be very frustrating. Heck, it's frustrating enough without a timing cover in place...now you have half of the timing cover in your way.
However, this solution is better than pulling the crank hub and dropping the oil pan.
Thoughts? Go to production?
What you are looking at:
- segment of our 3D model to verify clearances
- notice timing chain is behind cam sprocket
- cam sprocket has clearance to be removed
It's definitely functional in that you can remove the cam timing sprocket for a cam swap. Reassembly of the cam timing sprocket is going to be very frustrating. Heck, it's frustrating enough without a timing cover in place...now you have half of the timing cover in your way.
However, this solution is better than pulling the crank hub and dropping the oil pan.
Thoughts? Go to production?
Would it be possible to notch the lower portion and make a tab on the upper piece so instead of connecting straight like " |---------| " the seam would be " |----\____/----| " to give more room to the cam sprocket?
I'm sure its technically possible, but I do not know how much more that would complicate production and increase cost or how feasible it would be.
FWIW I sold my NIB first gen 24x setup so I can purchase the new double roller style with billet cover. I have the cash ready to buy but if this is something being put into production I may wait on it.
#48
FWIW I sold my NIB first gen 24x setup so I can purchase the new double roller style with billet cover. I have the cash ready to buy but if this is something being put into production I may wait on it.
#50
Village Troll
iTrader: (2)
#51
#52
#56
We have not been able to make the time on the CNC mill to continue development. That's not to say this timing cover won't happen, but that this is the busiest time of the year and we must focus on current production and getting orders that have been paid for out the door before putting time into this timing cover. I have no speculation on timeframe...just as I have no speculation on our future workload.
#57
New Progress!
Good afternoon Gents (And ladies?)!
We are at a point where we have some time to work on this again, and I have a small update for you.
I have come up with two possible solutions to make this happen and I'm looking for some feedback/input from you guys as to which direction to continue in.
Design 1: A revision of the last design I came up with for this cover, there have been minor changes to the opening, panel, and gasket. These changes include lowering the inside lip/edge on the bottom of the opening (closer to the the crankshaft) to provide around 0.200" additional clearance (vertically if it were mounted on the engine) to aid in removing the cam sprocket.
I also have opened up the "flange" around the rest of the opening by about .050" it's not much, but it helps a little bit with clearance for your hands to be in there.
In addition to these changes, I have moved the "locating pins" to the upper "corners" of the cover and will be using a standardized 3/32" Stainless steel locating dowel to align the two pieces.
Design 2: This is basically what Mike(S10Wildside) came up with initially but the split point is in the meaty part of the mounting "flange" which leaves more room for a decent width gasket to go in there. The other reason for the split here would be to use the factory locating dowels in the LT1 to align the two pieces.
This design will need some more changes and testing before it can be seriously considered. There is very limited room to move the cover forward with the LT1 hub in place without damaging the crank seal, and it may not be enough to clear the cam sprocket to swing the cover out of the way. On that note, the other possible issue I foresee is dangling the cover out of the way on the crank seal could potentially stretch the seal and cause an oil leak.
Here are some Images of the latest revisions of this prototype/concept.
Design 1:
Design 2:
Thanks in advance for your input, suggestions, comments, praise, support, etc, etc.
Feel free to make suggestions or ask questions regarding the design of this.
We have a laser now and gasket material that we can laser cut to make a gasket for just about any design, but keep in mind, the more complex your design suggestions are, the more fixtures and machine time we have, and that means more $$$ leaving your wallet
I'll be subscribed to this thread and will try to promptly reply to you guys.
Thanks,
Aaron
(EFI Connection CAD/CAM Developer, R&D Specialist, Uber Geek.)
We are at a point where we have some time to work on this again, and I have a small update for you.
I have come up with two possible solutions to make this happen and I'm looking for some feedback/input from you guys as to which direction to continue in.
Design 1: A revision of the last design I came up with for this cover, there have been minor changes to the opening, panel, and gasket. These changes include lowering the inside lip/edge on the bottom of the opening (closer to the the crankshaft) to provide around 0.200" additional clearance (vertically if it were mounted on the engine) to aid in removing the cam sprocket.
I also have opened up the "flange" around the rest of the opening by about .050" it's not much, but it helps a little bit with clearance for your hands to be in there.
In addition to these changes, I have moved the "locating pins" to the upper "corners" of the cover and will be using a standardized 3/32" Stainless steel locating dowel to align the two pieces.
Design 2: This is basically what Mike(S10Wildside) came up with initially but the split point is in the meaty part of the mounting "flange" which leaves more room for a decent width gasket to go in there. The other reason for the split here would be to use the factory locating dowels in the LT1 to align the two pieces.
This design will need some more changes and testing before it can be seriously considered. There is very limited room to move the cover forward with the LT1 hub in place without damaging the crank seal, and it may not be enough to clear the cam sprocket to swing the cover out of the way. On that note, the other possible issue I foresee is dangling the cover out of the way on the crank seal could potentially stretch the seal and cause an oil leak.
Here are some Images of the latest revisions of this prototype/concept.
Design 1:
Design 2:
Thanks in advance for your input, suggestions, comments, praise, support, etc, etc.
Feel free to make suggestions or ask questions regarding the design of this.
We have a laser now and gasket material that we can laser cut to make a gasket for just about any design, but keep in mind, the more complex your design suggestions are, the more fixtures and machine time we have, and that means more $$$ leaving your wallet
I'll be subscribed to this thread and will try to promptly reply to you guys.
Thanks,
Aaron
(EFI Connection CAD/CAM Developer, R&D Specialist, Uber Geek.)
#58
I really like the idea of a removable cover, but I think I like design 2 a little better. You would be using the factory dowels and the whole covers can be removed. I assume both of these designs would still accept a double roller timing chain? eg: Cloyes, etc.
#59
We mill a 1x or 4x signal in these to support the application. Gen III LS-Series signal is 1x and Gen IV LS-Series is 4x.
#60
LS1Tech Sponsor
iTrader: (3)
I like design 2 better also. The only thing that comes to mind with it is, if the "base" ever had to be removed it might be a monster to remove without damaging it if sealant was used when installed.
Of course this is only if the base had to be removed.
Great work guys, I love seeing the work from your shop!
Bill
(Guy who throws a bunch of wires together. )
Of course this is only if the base had to be removed.
Great work guys, I love seeing the work from your shop!
Bill
(Guy who throws a bunch of wires together. )
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Standalone LS Swap Harnesses IN STOCK!
LSX, LTX Stand alone swap harnesses. S10 LSX conversion PLUG AND PLAY harnesses, 24x conversion PLUG AND PLAY harnesses. LT1 to LSX PLUG AND PLAY Harnesses.
sales@bp-automotive.com
www.bp-automotive.com
1-888-467-4491